Dutch24V

Thanks for the pics Stan, very usefull :thumb right: I will try and figure out my piping this weekend so if I get stuck might ask for a few more :) Have you anymore of the front mount by any chance? Dutch

Hello mate. If possible pics would be handy as I'm interested to see how Andy plumbed your water piping and aux. pump. :) Dutch

...well, my rad fits fine :) There are several mounting holes in the cross-member for the rad. It is possible to fit it so the left fan doesn't clear the alternator, but if you mount the rad in the correct holes you will have minimum of 2 inches clearence to the engine/alternator etc. The right hand gromet thing on the bottom of the rad has to sit in the right most hole on the cross-member, then the left one will only fit in the hole in the bracket welded onto the front of the cross-member that sits about 2 inches forward of the other holes if you get what I mean. Dutch Pics:

So my Rad won't fit either then? Going to try it in a while, will report back... Dutch

I've not tried to fit the rad back yet btw, but now I'm curious if it'll fit. Will get back to you on that this evening, but I'm only fitting the 2.8 24v and maybe it's slightly different than with the R32? Dutch

I'm going to try and see what happens as it'll be easier than modifying the mount bracket if it's possible. Dutch

lol :) Dutch

Excellent :) How's yours coming along btw? Dutch

Can I swap the oil filter/cooler from the 12v onto the 24v? Reason being the 24v one is in the way of my front mount bracket and as the 12v is a slightly different design it wouldn't sit in the way? Dutch

So the original heat exchanger is still retained? That's the part that is in the way of my 24v front mount bracket though and I was planning on dumping it, but from what your saying that's not possible then? Dutch

How does the Mocal connect to the engine btw? I can't see how it connects to the oil filter, or does it go somewhere else? If so how do you block up the oil filter cooler connection? Dutch

I don't know mate, but if it does I would like to know why? :) It must have some advantages else why make it so heavy? Dutch

Why is the R32 one so heavy then? An R32 must have enough torque to run without a flywheel and not stall and if a VR one can keep a VR running it should be able to keep an R32 running surely? Dutch

Fair enough, thanks Henny :) So the Fidanza is lightened AND balanced for the specific model it's intended for from the factory? I presume the effect is more noticable on less powerful engines though, and the OE flywheel heavier on these than on more powerful ones? Dutch

I see what your saying, but how many granny's use a C VR to go shopping? The R32 one is even heavier than the Vr6, again it's not going to be driven by your *average* driver. Also the VR stalls easily enough on it's own, without helping it by fittinng a lightened flywheel. I'm still not convinced. Would you for example see any improvement over 0-60 times or top end with no other mod made? I reckon you'd see a rise in the mid range acceleration times, which in the real world is where it matters. I, as usuall, do not actually know what I'm talking about though, so somebody please educate me on these things!! Dutch

I've been debating the pro's and cons for a lightened flywheel too. Surely VW made them the weight they are for a very good reason? It would infact cost them less to make a lighter one to start with after all. Also, the VR one at least is balanced as it will only fit in one position, which I presume has to do with DTC otherwise why bother balancing it? And, momentum is related to weight, hence these lightened ones cannot hold the same momentum, which is surely going to be a problem with say mid range pickup wether you're going up a hill or not? They allow the engine to spin up and down quicker? - but surely thats only when the clutch is in or your in nuetral (as a few kgs off the flywheel compared to the weight of say the wheels/brakes etc and the friction of moving a car is surely negligable?) , so what's the advantage in that? I've decided it's not worth 4-500 quid and just stuck a new OE one in!? Am I missing something? Dutch

I'll try and get a number for you. There's 2 parts and I remember it being somewhere in the region of 140 euro in total ! Dutch

Stan, I'm going to use the air ducting that cooled my 12v DP. It's a factory C VR6 part, but not all have them for some reason. You can still get them from VW though. If you look in my members gallery you can see the part I mean, and that it runs to the perfect location for a cold air feed to the 24v K&N. :) It connects to a duct that sits behind the bumper grill thingy, below the left indicator/fog light. Dutch pics:

Andy, Sounds like a good idea mate, thanks :) Dutch

Not sure if this is the same thing, but I need a catch tank for the 24v as I don't want to vent the crank breather back into the intake manifold. Do you reckon your contact could help? Dutch

Stan, can yo PM me some pictures of your aux. water pump mate? It's either just to the back of where the 12v coil pack sat or on the front of the block between the oilfilter/cooler and your PAS pump? Could you also *try* and get some pics of your front engine mount bracket and how it attaches to your block/gearbox? I'm curious how yours has been done! Cheers, Dutch

I had a slow leak and when I removed the thermo housing yesterday noticed the rubber seal behind where it connects to the head had cracked! Dutch

Pics :)

The 24v is in, so the heavy work is finally finished :) ...and I'm knackered! Had to cut the 12v DP/CAT & the bit between the CAT and the rear section with a grinder this morning as it was all rusted/melted together. What fun that was!! Pics. later as it started to p&ss down with rain and I've only just finished. Dutch

Hi Jay, Hope you had a good trip mate :) So you have that little gap behind the flywheel too then? How do you mean flush against the block exactly and how many of the 3 bolts do you have attached to the engine itself? The way mine sits at the moment only one of the bolts mounts to the engine (the bottom left one) The other 2 bolts for the bracket are only fixed to the gearbox, and I doubt that will be strong enough to take the majority of the torque? A picture would help if pos. mate? :) ...no rush though as you're probably knackered Dutch