Dutch24V

The new flywheel/clutch are on and the 02A box. The box seems to mount fine but a couple of q's: Anyone know the torque for the bolts labelled? (not clear in Bentley) The gearbox mounts fine with 3 bolts from gearbox->engine (m12, 80 Nm), 2 bolts from engine into gearbox (also M12, but not sure on the torque. I presume less than 80 as the box is alumnium and the thread is in the hole on the box?), one long bolt (16cm) through the starter and gearbox into the engine and into the front engine mount bracket (M10, 60 Nm) and one bolt from the gearbox to the front engine mount bracket (M10, again not sure on the torque) There are no bolts at the bottom of the box though as there are no threads in the 24v block that line up with the box. This is the same on the 12v though so presume it's ok? Jay/Phat/Coxy, does that all look/sound good to you? You can see in one photo, at the back of the engine next to the flange for the driveshaft, is an uncovered area where you can actually see the back of the flywheel? Is this normal, should I block it up somehow or just leave it? I'm going to fill the gap between the gearbox and front mount bracket with a metal spacer (where the moulding is missing form the 24v block) and weld a bracket on it so it can be bolted onto the engine again. Dutch

OK, cool. Thanks guys. It just didn't look good to me, but then again I'm no mechanic so just wanted to make sure. Dutch

So that gap is normal then Kev? I haven't tightened the pressure plate bolts yet though and if I do it will mash the friction plate with 25 NM as they are only hand tight at the moment and the pressure plate is already pressing on the friction plate??? So the clutch is permenantly on and when the pressure plate is pressed in the friction plate moves away fom the flywheel, actually into the pressure plate case if you see what I mean? So those *cracks* are nothing to worry about then? Dutch

double-6s, cheers mate :wink:

The last picture shows the missing molding for the engine mount bracket bolt on the 24v block. I'm going to get a plate welded onto the bracket so it attaches to the block via the bolt that goes through the hole at the top of the photo. Dutch

some more:

I've fitted the flywheel and tryed to fit the clutch. The pressure plate will not sit flush with the flywheel. There is a 2mm gap all the way around as the friction plate seems too thick? I've compared it to the old one and it's only slightly wider due to wear on the old one. Is this normal? I've cleaned the inside of the bell housing and discovered loads of little cracks :shock: They seem to be only surface cracks but there is alot (see pics). Now you mention it David that extra bracket's got me wondering. There seems to be 2 places on the outside of the bell housing where it looks like some part of the aluminium casting has been snapped off? My engine was replaced 5 years ago and I'm thinking they may of swapped my gearbox for an older one, or is that cracking you see in the photo's normal for a '94 VR bellhousing/gearbox?? Dutch

Cheers Henny. Does the bell housing look ok, or should I clean it up abit? What about greasing the arm that moves the pressure plate? Dutch

I have a new VAG clutch kit and the grease to go with it, but not sure where exactly to put the grease? I know not to get it on the flywheel or friction plate, but where on the pressure plate do I grease? Also, should the inside of the bell housing be clean, or covered in oil/grease? Dutch

Well, finally removed the damn flywheel after borrowing a tool to lock it in position from my friendly VAG dealer :) I've bought new one anyhow as it was only 117 euro exchange from VW, so for piece of mind thought I'd better. Can't afford a fidanza now unfortuantely and the engine has to go back in this weekend as I strart a new job on Monday :( Dutch

Having looked at mine again the mount should sit in a cup like on the one pictured above. Not sure if you actually have the correct cross-mber there now as mine looks exactly like the one above when seperated from the other part of the cross-member. Dutch

Hmmm, not sure mate but as I've just ordered the same mount am well interested in the solution. That defo. looks like a C VR cross member to me (checks mine in the shed) and the mount looks right too ??? Strange... Dutch

OK, the 12v front engine mount bracket doesn't appear to fit? There is an extra molding on the 12v block that the back top bolt goes through. This moulding is'nt on the 24v block so how do I secure the bracket with all 3 bolts?? I know it has to be modified slightly to clear the oil cooler, but wasn't expecting a moutning hole to be missing :( Dutch

Where is your aux. water pump then Stan? Yeah it's coming along slowly. Bloody aluminium bolts are so easy to f^&k up!! CoxyLaad, That's exactly what I'm going to try and do, but if not and I leave the pump at the fron of the block where should the bottom hose from the aux. pump go and can I simply connect the hose from the bottom of the coolant reserviour to the heater matrix? I guess the hose from the bottom of the water reservious should connect upto the bottom hose on the aux pump (like in the VR setup) but then what do I do with the hose from the heater matrix, if you see what I mean??? Dutch

If I relocate the 24v secondary water pump to the VR6 location how can I block up the extra water hole in the front right of the block? The 24v has 2 holes in the front of the block and the 12v just one, with a metal plug welded in by the looks of it to where the second is on the 24v. Can I just clamp a hose on it and blank it off? Dutch PS. any tips on removing the flywheel bolts as mine are well and truelly stuck and I don't want to bugger the bolts on that too !??

The 12v is now out and the gearbox is off. Have to clean the box up now as it's covered in thick oil. Pics:

ah, cheers mate :) :oops: Dutch

Pull the large black connector towards the front of the car and it should then click off Dutch

mtc R32, The plan is basically to stick in the 2.8 24v along with the ecu, loom and mkIV relay panel (which connects upto the Corrado clocks and fuse board). I'm keeping the 02A trans., with a new clutch and engine mounts (VF front) and using the 4Motion twin CATS with a custom DP 8) g60greeny, lol, I may well enter him for a laugh :) Dutch

thanks :) I just have to remove the drive shafts now and the engine can be removed 8) It's all gone remarkably smoothly so far. The only bolts I can't remove and have infact buggered up are the 4 that fix the supporting brackets that hold the back of the intake manifold to the cylinder head. They are allen bolts and I've sheered all 4. Don't need to remove the intake manifold to remove the engine though so boll&cks to them :) Dutch

Cheers Chris, ...what do you mean by the bos though? Dutch

Everything's removed now so no problem Dutch

If I hoist the engine/gearbox out with a hoist & strap will the lump and gearbox balance nicelly without a load balancer, or will the engine tend to swing when hoisted of the mounts? I presume it is easier to hoist the engine up a little, remove the front cross-member and then push the car back? When draining the PAS fluid where is the best place to drain from and how corrosive is PAS fluid? Thanks, Dutch

The air intake actually connects to the exhaust down-pipe, apparently for cooling. It runs down to a collector in the vent below the indicator, so I'm going to use it as a cold air feed to the 24v K&N :) Dutch

Started to strip the VR today :) So far so good 8) Dutch ...as you can see the dog is also very happy :)