was8v

whats the correct way of doing this? Are new sleeves needed for every wishbone bush or do some not need them? Why the feck don't they come with them if you need them!!!!?

I wouldn't worry about it too much at the moment, you won't be noticably down on power. Eventually the plugs will start fouling worse and then missfiring. Then you will find you have to start carrying spare plugs. As others have said most likely is the classic VR bore wear due to the poor cooling of 1 and 6, but don't rule out the head until you have done a leak down test. Easiest is just to swap the engine for a known good one, then break yours selling the good head etc. Cheapest is to get a 2.8 bottom end from a sharan/passat, might be hard to find a corrado one. Re-con engine or 24v swap if you are feeling flush!

Well they came loose, when I removed the disc they fitted back on tightly. They came off again hence why I replaced with new ones. Which haven't come loose yet. I find theres nothing more demoralising than doing a job and inferior parts meaning you have to do it again. Best to use the new bits from the off then you know the job has been done properly. You've saved £40 labour in doing it yourself, so whats £9 for the correct parts.

Best to get new ones anyway. The previous owner "recycled" the old ones on mine when fitting new brakes shortly before I bought it. They came loose a couple of months into my ownership, meaning I had to take it all apart to fit new ones.

Look great on a lowered C! I think I'll keep my eyes open for some again (and mine is black too :)).

I've been keeping my eyes open for some nice looking cheapish 16" wheels, and often wondered what Mk4 golf montreal wheels would look like on a corrado, as they often crop up cheap and i've never seen a set fitted. Well i can wonder no more as theres a c on ebay with them: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf1.JPG[/attachment:2xrm7wzj] 2.JPG[/attachment:2xrm7wzj] Just thought others might like to see them for reference :wink:

I've had mine fitted for a while the same as this. Yes the leather covers the handle leaving only the button poking out of the end. My handle bit was missing its leather cover and I was missing the long T piece plastic anyway so these werent present. Anyway I removed the surround plastics, slid the leather over the handbrake lever, used some glue on the inside of the bit that covers the (originally leather covered) plastic handle and pulled it on (very tight plus the glue will help keep it in place). No removal of the handbrake mechanism was needed. I then gaffer taped the bottom of the gaiter to the carpet just to hold it in place while I slid the surround plastics back over the lever. Looks 200% better than it did and 100% better than the oem T piece and short handle.

Don't be so quick to say that - I was!!!! I just could not believe it would work from my primary school and later physics lessons. But it is true! With standard bulbs my red tinted rears flashed predictably red. With Green bulbs they flashed very orange though not as bright. See my pics at viewtopic.php?f=3&t=63845&start=19

Thats my plan, I was just hoping someone has had a good experience and could recommend somewhere. Thanks. I had awesome in mind but they are a bit far south really. I might end up there yet.

Has any one had good experience of an alignment setup on their Corrado? Is there a place with a proper machine that gives a printout of values in the Preston - Carlisle region? Seen it like this: download/file.php?id=8105&mode=view but my local VAG doesnt have a machine.

Lol no its not me. The car has had a few more owners in the 10 years or so since that was shown on TV. Looks nice tho doesn't it! I suspect the headgasket had started weeping a tiny tiny amount at the back offside like most VRs i've seen seem to, hence the diagnosis.

Righto, if you want a job doing, then do it yourself. :bad-words: Turns out there was plenty of adjustment available. My bearing carrier isn't bent at all. Maybe an easy mistake to make if you are used to working on peugeots etc where theres no adjustment, but he did say he had checked when clerly he hadn't tried hard enough. Thanks everyone. Thread closed.

Lol no, only saw the clip after I'd bought it. It was a little tatty round the edges but the engine had had a lot of work recently and it was the right price. If I'd known that pair had their hands on it, it may have influenced my decision! But then we never know what kind of previous owners have had our cars :shrug: we can only go off history and condition.

I've seen it..... its my car: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=70361 :D

I know they are allen head socket cap bolts I was thinking of rear carrier bolts too. Hammer a 12 point socket in a just large enough imperial size on them, it grips great. I can find out the size I used if you want? Theres no other use for those cheapo old imperial sockets rolling round in the toolkit :) Make sure its half inch drive and use a breaker bar.

Yeah they fitted them cos cars kept setting fire to things underneath (and then the car) when parked up after a run. Also be careful if you do remove it that the cat itself doesn't hit speed bumps, they aren't cheap......

Best success I've had is to hammer an imperial 12 point socket onto them. I can't remember the size but it went on fine with persuasion from a lump hammer and removed the bolts nicely. Best to replace with new ones (which are a larger size head).

Yeah theres a thread somewhere. Sometimes you need to get the bolt holes drilled out if they are original subaru wheels as they used a slimmer bolt. Also the centre bore size is different so you will have to source some hubcentric spacers with the correct bores on each end! A few people have done it.

Thanks. The wishbone that was on when the pic above was taken came on the car and appeared to be original. The replacement I got was for a Golf VR6 but shares the same part number as the Corrado VR6 and is the same as the original. Now the new wishbone is fitted the wheel sits in exactly the same place. My mechanic thinks the hub carrier is bent, claims to have measured it and compared to the other side somehow. I just want to check as I'm not convinced he has used the full range of adjustment available from what he has said. It does look an awful long way out though!

Just get some 20 mm spacers? How wide are the wheels? are they subaru wheels by any chance?

How would I do it myself approximatly? I was thinking of removing the wheel, drop the car back to level, jack the wishbone up to approximatley the normal position, and use a spirit level on the face of the hub. I guess this will indicate if I can get the camber in the ballpark? If i can't pull it out enough then the bearing carrier / car (!) must be bent. what do other people do? Thanks for all the help again! :notworthy:

Cheers. Well I guess the thing to do is have a look myself. I don't really have the time hence using the mechanic grrrr. There are no good VW specialists around here unfortunatly.

If the wheels are the same width then a 50mm offset will sit 10mm further in the arch than a 40mm offset.

hmmmm just checked the bentley and indeed it says there is a some adjustment available so we are correct.

Its pretty obvious the camber on my drivers side front wheel is waaaay off: (handling has never been right imho). I'm pretty sure theres a small amount on the bottom of the suspension strut. Is this the case and do we think there is enough adjustment to correct the above camber? Is it only a tiny amount of adjustment available? :confused4: (btw the trackday was a present and I would have preferably had all this sorted before going on track! :roll: )