was8v

try a new battery in the remote.

Whats the point of doing this on a corrado? Theres loads of them available and they are cheap! I understand on a rusty splitscreen camper thats pretty rare and will be worth over £10k afterwards. Going to that effort on a corrado thats probs worth £5k at the most afterwards is madness! Dip/respray then theres the £1000's for all the other bits you need to buy to do the work justice!

you want to locate the front panel away from the main unit? Seen this done before where space is a constraint.... here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/marlin_bmw ... 830659040/ So did yours end up not working then? Ouch....

Yeah I don't see what all the fuss is about? Its exactly the same as using a lathe? There is a minor danger of the car falling off the stands I suppose.

I got some green bulbs on ebay - they make the lights flash orange but not so bright as before. See results: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=63845&hilit=+green LED bulbs are better (make it orange and bright), but theoretically it should fail the MOT with them as they are not type approved for our age cars. But then neither will green ones but I've not had a problem.

The plastic one is from a 1999.5 12v vr6 engine that europe didnt get not a 24v, there may be other differences inc the throttle body / airbox arrangement for the Mk4 chassis. The ebay listing shows it fitting a standard 12v bare engine. Its interesting that no-ones copied a shrick or VWMS manifold in plastic tho, thinking about it theres no reason for it to be cast from alloy apart from looks. You might break it with a supercharger tho. You could just chop a shrick in half (ouch) and take moulds. Modify it slightly and knock a whole setup out for £300 each. The electronics to make a flap open at a specified revs is not complicated. There shouldn't be any IP issues - surely a shrick is a modified copy of the VWMS one anyway? Someone in the industry could do it easily.

Not seen anyone suggest bolting those parts up before! Wouldn't the throttle body need to be on the other side?

I have this for sale which is a nice OEM option - not leather but most original leather wheels are tatty by now. viewtopic.php?f=13&t=66426 Another option is a Polo G40 wheel?

I'd pay £1750 at the most and thats only if it can be started and is a real Storm. If it can't be started and isn't a storm then its worth less than a grand. Bear in mind You can pick up a nice running Vr6 for 2.5k with full MOT. Parts are not cheap and the one pictured is going to need £700 in parts (heck even the alternator belt tensioner is over £70 which you can guarantee you will need after being stood) straight off plus you need to account for the labour. I've bought cars in the past that have been stood needing brakes, tyres, bearings etc. Plus they have had sticking clutches, blocked injectors, and water pumps have failed quickly on me after getting them running. As enthusiasts we know there is no difference between a storm and standard car, but the relative market value of a storm is higher and as a runout model has greater classic significance hence the higher valuations. I'd print this topic out and show them, as there are very knowledgable people on here who watch the prices of these cars.

If someone would buy the Pieburg VWMS manifold and start knocking them out with a copied chip for £500 then I'd be in.... I doubt it will happen as to set up the castings would cost a fortune.

Don't worry you've probably not been riding round uninsured. They probably just haven't updated the details on the MID. This means your vehicle will be flagged as uninsured if you get pulled by the police. A quick call to the insurance company by the coppers when you present your producer will prove all is well. But best not to get pulled in the first place for not being insured, eh?

The post office that issues the tax is supposed to check the certificate of insurance is original and is valid for 2 months. I have had Adrian Flux email me a PDF before of the cert so I can get tax without any problems, they ask if it is an original just say yeah, the original comes in the post the next day anyway. Its kind of pointless having that rule as you could very easily doctor a pdf for another car and print it out and the post office wouldn't know any different, they don't check anything apart from the dates. To buy tax online your car needs to show up on the MID - to check yours does go to http://www.askmid.com/ normally takes a few days after taking out a policy to show up.

I'd work back from what its worth in good nick. Say £4k for a good conditon strorm with 110-150k? Then scout round it carefully and tot up what you need to get it in that condition (brakes, wheel bearings, oils, filters, starter, alternator, battery, heater controls, panels, paint, random bits of trim etc). Knock that off the 4k and halve the remainder - thats what I'd offer. It must have been parked up for a reason - most likely engine failure (maybe aftermarket immobiliser failure) so allow for sourcing another (1k?) that if you can't start it. Golf Vr6 engines are cheap but that would sever the value of a storm. In fact recently on here there has been running complete Vrs go for as little as £1.5k so you could pick up a parts car!

There could be a few people doing this soon as the number of broken subframe stories seems to be on the increase......

??

how do we make them?

bump anyone?

Get a draper compression tester on ebay (about £15 delivered) and see viewtopic.php?f=1&t=65076 Do wet and dry compression tests to see if its the head or the bottom end thats the problem. If its the head - not that much to have it reconditioned. If its the bottom end - bore wear / piston rings then you'll need a more expensive rebuild. Cheapest and easiest option is to replace with a known good one preferably from a Corrado but you can use a 2.8 golf one. In this case best to keep your existing head and ecu etc as you can use any bottom end I think. You can pick up Golf 2.8 engines for next to nothing, hell you can get a whole car for much less than a grand. 2.9s in good nick will be be a bit more.

remove the circlips and press the bearing out - best to use a press!

I have a leak from a replacement screen in the top drivers side corner. To fix it properly I need to dig some sealant out from the corner to replace with some fresh. I have the A pillar trim off revealing most of it, but I want to make sue I get to all of it. How does the trim come off - does the headliner need to be slid back?

yeah they go for £70-100 ish usually, hence the budget solution above. I'll give you £20 for them.....lol

Just to add to this thread to avoid confusion, the diagram above (reproduced below) is for the 16v and G60 corrados up to 1992 which have the MK2 golf style slotted nut setup. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfearly.gif[/attachment:3ej5r806] VR6s and other post 92 cars don't have the slotted nut setup, they use a normal nut as per the diagram below. Hence yopu dont need the slotted nut tool. late.gif[/attachment:3ej5r806]

Just checked my front shocks.... and I'm an idiot, they are matched Monroe Gas shocks that don't look very old either. Nevermind please can someone delete this poitnless thread.....

its 535 957 087 01c TRIM

I was just going to go with 2x of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140210600892 The pipe just wont be bent in the right places, but the pipe is nothing special..... oh and 4x proper fuel pipe clips to secure: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290102179170 How is the fuel line secured at the other (i.e. not fuel rail) end?