Critical_Mass

100% agree, those door pins are the most annoying noise on any car ever, Fact! :lol: Mines ok generally, just the usual squeaks and rattles[/quote:2j4qonrl] i dunno, my damn glove box squeaks alot :bad-words: Drives me up the wall, its like having a mouse living in there. Also out of no wear, the passenger back rest roller handle thing has started rattling a bit.... for no reason, i havent even taken it apart or anything :lol:

I agree, people especially kids, dont have any road sense what so ever. I once had a kid run from behind a school bus where there was traffic waiting behind it. The only reason i knew someone was there before he popped out was the woman in the car behind the bus waving frantically. I still had to slam on. The kid didnt look and ran across the road and up a little hill didnt even look behind him... :mad2:

The VR engine is nice a quiet... but then its a recon engine with only 8k on the clock. Though since fitting coilovers the rear boot trims/shelves etc creak alot more then they used to... same with the dash.

Yum Yum, nice manifold :norty: :D I'd say do another oil change now, but not with silkolene. I'd do at least 500 miles maybe closer to 1000 before changing to the silkolene.

1 Vote hear for the supersprint. No its not a full S/S just the back box is. Noise wise you wouldnt even tell it from OEM i dont think. Cant tell when driving the car, at slow speed or motorway speeds. The only time i can tell a difference between it and OEM is when im stood at back of car on idle - theres a nice subtle burble. Never had my own car drive passed me, so i dont know what its like from the outside when driving :lol: One down fall is its more expensive then a fully s/s like a milltek or jetex. But imo is worth the extra bucks.

Yup i used the Irwins on the carrier bolts. After i tried all other methods over a period of 2 days. Save yourself the hassle and time and get some Irwins. Took 5 mins to get them off with them.

That low as a daily :lol: it'll be a speed bump nightmare I wanted to go lower on springs/shocks but couldnt find any setup for a VR that went lower then 40mm. For anyother Corrado its fine, but for a VR i couldnt find anything lower then 40mm. That is spot on psiburr imo :D Ben if you want coilover, i recommend the KWs. I've got a set of variant 1s and love them - reasonably comfortable considering they're harder then standard suspension.

Thats way more then 40mm drop. More like 60-80mm drop.

pisburrr that looks like a nice drop. Stance looks good (listen to me i sound like a e38 kid). What you got to bare in mind is, if its a daily then you've got to think of speed bumps. i'd like to go lower but i come across too many speed bumps to allow me to go lower with out dreading hitting the spoiler or cat shield badly.

im with Jim on this, use a cable tie. Sounds like youre bodging it but, lets face it ... you'll have to do it again in the future. Just make sure you pull the cable tie as tight as possible.

Those Sebrings really have come out well... never really liked Sebrings but they look 8)

A good shock spring setup would be Koni shocks and H&R springs - highly recommended by others on here too.

Weird, i didnt think late spec J reg Corrado's existed.

No worries :D Try Blackcircles.com just got a good deal on some toyos myself, albeit different size (195/45 16s)

Wouldnt the J reg number plate give it away :shrug:, can you get a late spec J reg?

My guess is its because they're cheaper - the guy I bought the car from put the tyres on shortly before I bought from him. I like these dunlops though so will try and get the same or Toyos I think. Another q....is my speedo reading correctly with the 55's on?? According to the tyre calculator http://www.alloywheels.com/tyrecalc.asp it'll be reading 72.5mph when youre travelling at 70mph.

I would. I had 205/50s on my Speedlines - i think thats the size they came out of the factory. Not sure why youd want 205/55s on them :shrug:

^^^ and i found that out the expensive way. Hottuning will give you the drop but the ride will be terrible. I had my v-maxx (same as hottuning) fitted for a month or so and i got rid... thats how bad they were.

As what has been said in all the above. Spend more and get some nice coilovers. If your budget doesnt stretch that far, forget the coilovers and get some Koni shocks and springs. i wouldnt uby cheap coilovers imo - they're crap

Hi mate, Theres a suspension discussion thread under the 'Drive train' section, would be good to take a look under that thread. To be honest if you are on a tight budget and its an 'emergency' (keep car on road, MOT time etc) you'd be best getting a decent set of second hand shocks and springs. I've had a set of the cheap coilovers (v-maxx) and they were awful! wish i'd saved my money. If you can hold out I would recommend saving a bit and spending more on your suspension. Whether you get shocks/springs or coilovers will be down to your own preference. But i can however recommend the KW coilovers, nice ride, great around the twisties and not too hard at all. Dont get tiring over longer journeys.

Shouldnt it be finger tight then put a socket and rachet on it and rest your hand on the rachet - the weight of your hand is how tight it should be. If that makes sense. Anyway... Good work Monkey.... been following this thread and im looking forward to seeing it finished. :D

Bear in mind guys that if you've set your height on the coilovers and had the geometry set up,If you adjust the height again, you will have to get the geometry done again... ideally.

Yeah definately a common occurrence. Had this issue with every set of suspension ive fitted to my VR - FK springs/shocks, cheapo V-maxx coilies. H&R springs/shocks and finally KW V1s. I did put it down to crap suspension at first, esp with the v-maxx. But after the same happening with the KWs i decided to have a read on here and found its due to the fuel tank and engine being slightly over to the drivers side. I just adjusted the suspension to compensate.

:lol: i wasnt implying that i'd buy a tyre because its lighter... that would be silly. As you say Stuart, you dont buy tyres on how much they weigh but for the grip. Im just talking about weight added to the car, due to different wheels, tyres, tyre size etc. But obviously 90% of it will be down to what wheels you run.

Could be your indicator stalk that is buggered in some way. If they work when turning alarm on/off and the hazard warning lights work, this would probably be the next place to investigate.