CorradoVR6-Turbo

I didn't realize this was Marks old Ride ! Thought it had a "accident" ?

Shimming the appropriate stub axel bolts is not a true adjustable camber .just bodging what's already bent. He also said he has had camber and tracking done...yes on the front or the back aswell? Merry Christmas.

The rear camber is not adjustable but where its bolted to the floor it is adjustable.(forgot the word) So that's why four wheel alignment is a good thing. If you mechanic said its harder to turn standing still then it might be the rack.

when are you going to change your Metro for your Raddo in the Avatar? :wink:

High lift cams will never idle as smoothley as stock.Was it just cam that was changed or other head work?

If the steering is heavier to one side it doesn't mean its the rack.The poise of the car on the road will determine that.If standing stationary and turning the rack side to side and its heavier one way then yes its the rack. But if the geometry is out it will wonder to one side.

What about getting four wheel steer alignment done,could be the rear axel out of line.

The hydraulic wont be noisy as its expanded and the gap between Bucket and cam will be zero. As for checking spark when you have more than one set of hands will rule out the obvious. But its going to have to come apart to fully understand why its gone wrong

Sticking hydraulics? Lift the rocker cover off and look at the height of the buckets.Or do a leakage test. Unlikely that it will be rings.Evan with no rings you will have more pressure than that

ohh pleeeeeeeeeeese mee....oh...oh.....meeee PM sent

Im the same !!!!!!!! :lol:

The gas will evaporate on its own.If you leave it for a while it will be fine. So you found no problems with the seals?

Got some steels on now hey Mark? Do you still have that debadged grill up for grabs? and its low................like your old one :wink:

They have after runs with the ignition off?

Kargen? Karmen? If you go to your VW dealer they will have the part for you,not every seal is the same it needs to be fuel resistant.

there will be pressure on the fuel rail so if you leave the car switched off for 10 minutes or so to allow the pressure to subside Pull off the rubber pipe connected to the fuel rail regulator and then pull out the metal clip that holds it in place. Wiggle the fuel pressure regulator out slowly and allow any pressure left in the rail to be released slowly. Its straight forward and once you have the regulator out you will see the fault. Try not to get any old bits of seal left in the fuel rail as this could clog an injector.

here is a pic.

that's the fuel pressure regulator.take the clip out from the side that holds it in place and pull it out you might find the rubber o-ring split and these are pennies to replace

and how easy they stall.

the 328i?

If any gas is leaking out of anywhere don't even start the motor up or you will risk under bonnet(hood) fires or worse loose the hole car. Fuel(gas) vapour will ignite more easily It sounds like your describing the fuel pressure regulator?or fuel lines?not to sure pics, will help

that's different ! what dash is that?

opened the garage ....looked at the VR in a blank trance ....shut the garage door and went back to bed :lol: to much drink the night before.But there are jobs to be done when I can face it :morning:

:lol:

No point balancing flywheel if you are running stock motor.unless you have had work done to the flywheel that could cause the weight to be altered