CorradoVR6-Turbo

im in love with your car.....

yea its always good to confirm the shell tolerances with plastic gauge when building a motor as you don't truly know the tolerances other wise,as for sand paper 1000 grit is a good start,but it will only clean away shell deposits, for any deeper scoring then machine work is required and that will suck ass!

awesome!

It sounds like big end bearings,this will fail first as it has the most load from the thrust of the piston,the bearing are fed via the block through crank to big end shells,in most cases if its caught quickly you can get away with just replacing the big end shells and polishing up the crank journal with fine sandpaper. When you rebuilt the motor did you just fit standard shells? did you plastic gauge the shell gaps?

Well i had a look at it tonight,not as good as i thought,lower valance and bumper is required but this is an easy repair,the rest of the car is an honest car but unloved most of its life,2" diameter stone chips cover the bonnet as these stonechips have never had attention from day one...shame Rest of the car needed a full respray due to various bad repair and rubbish paint,the interior was ..."ok" but drivers seat bolster was shot and drivers door card not so good,but with some serious cleaning it would have come up good. But the main thing was the rear mid section of the floor,where the rear passenger foot wells are, the floor had been pushed up from poor recovery truck unloading and was obvious as the inside carpet area was well raised... The seller was honest about the car and he had two other corrados,one black VR6 and one G60. Also never heard it run as the fuel line was ripped... plus having a cat C marker and needing a VIC check was not worth 1500 quid in my eyes...ho hum,save up and by better me thinks!

possibly,but will see what the full extent is when i have a look at it,not rushing into anything ..... ---------- Post added at 10:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ---------- Yea i know Chris,cant keep away no matter how hard i try lol

Just spoke to seller on phone and going to look at it tomorrow .....i hate corrados lol

Hmmmmmm

As above the motors are all the same and its only covers etc that determine dizzy or coilpack....easy!

new sumps are fine to weld,old sumps can be a pain...still have plenty of room to weld or tap and fit a -12 fitting. you going turbo Karl?

the pick up pipe is shorter on the alloy sumps,so will need to be replaced or possible starvation could happen...thats the worst case !

last time i bought a headgasket from VW it was around 45 quid...that was a while back. The Victor Reinz one i got from my local machine shop,dont know where you would get one from the net.

VR6 Metal headgasket OEM part Number 021103383N Victor Reinz Part Number 61-34125-25 Ford Galaxy OEM Part Number 98vw-6051-AA

No need to take cams out, just turn the crank and cams the same rotation if any resistance is felt back either cam or crank off until there is non,its better doing it it practice,them when you have have both at tdc then carry on as before. Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

It's unlikely you have caused any damage ,assemble it as said above,put covers on and leave the motor supported and do a compression check if you want to make sure Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

looking good mate!

ive been corrado less for a while now but when i see one its like ive never seen one before!....great cars....always will be!

Yea they are the same folks I got my stuff from when building the vrt...sweets are nice tho :-) Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

oddly some do and dont...and i dont know why? Ive had a head pressure tested in the past due to this and they have come back fine....if you have doubt get it done for piece of mind.

cast mark mate,seen them before i port them out.

My 2P My turbo was mounted high up and not far off the bonnet and heat was in my mind when i fitted the bonnet,but i added self adhesive reflective heat shield and removed the rear scuttle trim rubber seal to improve and help the flow of air across the engine bay. My turbo had a jacket on and this is a must imop. Giving the car some decent full power runs and sitting stationary for some time the bonnet was warm to touch from the top side,at first i did get a distinct smell of glass fibre and this stopped after a time and the bonnet and paint had no problem with the heat,also Coullstar has done track days and still the bonnet is fine. So it will be fine,but you need to take precautions to protect it from the searing heat,if left as is and the turbo mounted so high up and can imagine problem occurring.

i would clean out the throttle body,they have no idle valve,the throttle controls the idle,when the small air gap gets clogged up or reduced it will idle poor,also the air leak wont help :tongue:

ah right! um...dont know i would suspect the ns then? :lol:

window module is behind the rear drivers side quarter panel,before disconnecting this put your multimeter between the neg side of the battery and set it to amp draw,see what the results are?

:lol: sods law,sound like its split?