Valerian

That :) is something i was just contemplating

Looks like it'll be a trip to Halfrauds then......think i lent mine out yonks ago but can i remember who to......nope.....few phone calls tonight me thinks

Just joined that website....thanks for the link. Any more info anyone can give would be appreciated.

right....just been emptying the shed trying to find my pop rivet gun....do you think i can find it? :shrug:

I have the daunting task of replacing my passenger window mechanism tomorrow. The window is in the up position so i'm going to have fun disconnecting the mechanism without the window falling and possibley smashing. Anyone care to give me any pointers on the best way to remove the whole mechanism with the smallest of fuss? Also not looking forward to the removal of the pop rivets.

you must be as bored as i am :)

I think you mean the rear speed rotor in which case the part number is 1J0 614 149 (THIS IS FOR A PAIR) Also says you should use part number 1h0 501 639 which is a pair of covers for the rotors

no worries :D ....glad you managed to sort it all

Best thing to do is unbolt the steering lock housing from the steering column. Once the housing is loose you will have enough room to get a screwdriver in there.

I guess in the span of 2 years and 600+ looms there are going to be some problems.

Yes

If anyone competent fancies making there own loom i can email you a .PDF file containing diagrams etc... EDIT....in fact i'll post a link here instead:- http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech ... eadlights/

As i've said before in previous threads....there are varying qualities and the difference between them is mostly in the quality of relays used. There is little reason why even the most basic single relay loom should fail. The only difference between Gavins old loom and James' equivilent loom is that Gavins loom had more in the way of shrouding. The only reasons that a loom could fail are:- Faulty relay --------------------------------- the poorer the quality the bigger the chance of the relay failing over time...relays should also be protected from the elements Poor routing of cables when fitted ------- cables should be secured to the car in such a way so that they do not flap about, chaff or snag on anything. Loose or broken connectors--------------- Crimped connectors can become corroded(over a very long period of time) , or if under strain can come loose or wires will come adrift completely if under excessive strain. Incorrectly wired---------------------------- blown bulbs and fuses will occur if you have not wired the loom into the car correctly. If you have any doubt as to your ability to fit a loom then you should not attempt to fit one. I just want to point out that the need of uprated headlight looms not only apply to early VW cars but also to a lot of other makes of pre 1990's cars. James makes his looms with the correct specification fuses, relays, wires and connectors so the answer to your question would have to be yes they are good looms.

You can even make the looms with 4 relays if you wish.

Just been looking through your past posts but not found what you mention. James makes more than one type of loom so i'de like to know what anyone finds questionable and try and quash any fears.

For what it is worth chaps i have already stated in another thread that looms are available here :- http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZ1989corradog60 This chap is a Corrado owner himself and has been making headlight looms for years. If you live in Devon and wish to collect he'll even fit the loom for nothing. You can pay via Paypal and your payment is protected.

This should be of some help to you :-

I'm going to PM you some good advice coz i don't want to post it in here incase car thieves see it.

I'm interested as to why you stated "nope, all wrong" ? The pivot piece that the arm articulates on is actually contained in the repair kit part number 1HO 898 019 that i quoted.

One last word on this subject. If you have to gain access by removing the front grill don't go butchering your radiator shrouds. Just arm yourself with a 10mm spanner (you might need to remove the two horns to give yourself more elbow room) and take out the two bolts that attach the shrouds to the Rad each side. Then you can just pull the shrouds towards you enough to get your hand in each side and pull the latch arms. You'll need a bit of patience to get that front grill out in one piece though.

The gospel according to Etka is Part number 357 877 385 is known to VW as a "left locking segment" This one of the parts belonging to the water guide plate. VW catalogue a water guide plate repair kit and the part number for the left hand kit is 1HO 898 019

The Corrado has bump stops fitted on the rear so if it still has the standard 15 inch wheels there should be no way that the rear wheel(s) can rub the arches or chassis. However....if you have oversized wheels (i.e 17 inch or greater) or wheels with the incorrect offset...then it's possible the wheels will rub. Only other thing i can think of is that the bump stops have perished and disintegrated.

According to Etka the part numbers you have quoted for the slider repair kits are correct. They also do repair kits for the water guide plates.

They bolt on from underneath.....easy as long as none of the bolts are seized

Cheapest diy fix is to fibreglass the rear of the cracks and use plastic filler on the front. Once the fillers are nice and dry....sand and blend the plastic filler on the front and take the opportunity to colour code the splitter to match your car body colour. (Sorry but i think black splitters on the front of Corrados look tacky...unless the car is black) If you want a more professional job then you could use a plastic welder. You need to consider though that a new splitter costs between £30 and £40 so it may be cheaper to replace if you are not able to do a DIY job