catch_twotwo

Once it's started to go like that, hitting high RPM might shake the thing to peices.....

I was thinking about the tyre pressure..... might just give them an extra few PSI to help things along. Unplugging the coilpack ??? What benefit will this give ?

It should sit mid gauge according to people I've spoken to.... anything above is hotter than normal. Mine sits about 90 now I've fixed it. Things I checked / replaced .: Blue & Black temp senders (even if the sender to the dash is correct the other might be playing up) If the fan doesn't kick in at low speed when you're temp hits 90° then it could be the thermostat on the radiator where the fan plugs in. Short the plugs on the fan plus (not the sensor on the rad) 1 & 3 and 1 & 2 should be the high and low settings. just can't remember which is which) If neither work then your fan is shot. If the fan kicks in but doesn't cool anything then the rad termostat might be stuck closed. Check the top and bottom hoses (carefully they'll be hot) if the bottom is cold then the rad is doing nothing as the thermostat is shut, or there's an airlock in the system. I ended up changing everything in mine all over a few days and mines working fine now..... usually if the temp is high you'll see other things failing. It blew my Heater Matrix, so don't run it if you don't need to... save yourself the extra trouble.

I don't think the wheels will be a problem as I'll try and move the car once every couple of weeks, even if it's just a little. Also after hearing the road noise on the way down the autobahn yesterday I think a new set of tyres might be on the cars anyway :lol: Thanks for the hint about the Silica gel Phil, but I've secured 3 pouches (450g each) from eBay for a good price.

Thanks for the hints tempest... much appreciated. silica-bags, i need to find a nice source of these. As for leaving the tailgate open, that might be a bit tricky as it's a shared underground garage, so I might be asking for trouble there. Still people here are more liekly to just close it for me than rob me blind :lol: Looks like I'm headed shopping for some bits tomorrow night then.... busy night for me.

Yeah i thought the same last winter.... and we all know how that ended.... in a ditch :lol:

According to ETKA is't changed at engine number .: >> 50_L_005732 Mine falls into this catagory and was registered 02/1990 as a guide. However they're seems to be a few changes so might be best to check your exact number against ETKA.

You'd have a steady stream of business if you could get this working for others as well ;)

Well I'm leaving it standing from now until 1st March next year.... so 4 months in total. I have an underground garage so can move the car about if i need to, just to stop the tyres getting flat spots. I don't have axle stands here unfortunatly so that's not really an option right now. Is it worth parking it without the handbrake in (leaving it in gear) as it's on the level and I don't want the rear brakes to start playing up.

The Mk3 wheel will fit as I've got the Airbag version in mine (without the actual airbag connected though)

So tommorrow night i have to tuck up my new baby in the underground garage for the harsh German winter... Before I do however I wanted to ask some tips from those who store there cars over winter on what to do / not to do..... It's a G60 as spec'd below, with no alarm (currently). So far I've got to the stage of thinking about cleaning it as well as possible, making sure it's dry and the inside is cleaned etc. Also been thinking about putting some of these water gathering packets around the car. However that's about it. - Should I disconnect the battery - Should the tyre pressure be changed at all before storage - How often should I start her up over winter You know, stupid questions like that ;)

So after a while of searching I've found some interesting tools for those of us with PDA GPS systems (of gps units that can install apps) These aren't free, but they are cheap, and have good demo versions. GPSdash is shareware however, and only logging is limited. GPSDASH2 http://wimobi.com/gpsdash/overview.ppc2.php This app will show you current speed, max speed, average etc.... as well as acceleration graphs. It's customisable so you can set your own dashboard with your own settings. Useful for testing after some tuning I guess... or just for fun graphs as you bomb it around the backstreets. Logging is limited unless you buy the non-shareware version. Tracky http://www.trackthisout.com/ Does the same sort of thing as GPSDash, but adds more features as well like G-Force charts, and lots more. Try before you buy gives you 15 minutes usage before it turns off, but enough to enoughy the nice graphs. More Revs http://www.morerevs.com/ Bad name.. but still. 0 - 60 times, 1/4 mile standing start times Demo version is limited to counting by seconds and not in 10th's. Still might be worth checking out. **************** If anyone knows any others I've missed feel free to post them, as I'd be interested ;)

You'll need to remove the square edging around the unit, which will reveal slots on each side of the unit. Then you can insert the special tool on each side to unclip it. If you've not got a tool, then head to an audio place and slip the guy a fiver to slip it out.... (not like that ;) ) I had right problems after loosing my Alpine tools... had to call in expert help....

Well got a nice chufty today from a VW dealership of all places... Went in to pickup a couple of parts and the parts guy took one look at the parts sheet and said in broken English "Is it here, I can fit that for you if it is" I could see he just wanted to look at the car.... unless you get free fitting on all replacement expansion caps. He looked rather disapointed when I said no. If it was the crank bolt he'd offered to fit I might have dashed home to collect the car ;) Then again it is VW so maybe not....

Tests here are different...... else i would have put my old steelies on. I need a test for the wheels so that they're added to the car registration documents. Then I'm legal and if I get pulled over it's all documented. Good thinking with the plastic bits, but in Germany those plastic bits would need a TÜV certificate as well :cry:

Well... as I thought would be the case I took my car to a tuners to have them put it through a TÜV change for new wheels and new suspension and the TÜV checker just said no... Front wheels i know are fine... suspension i know is fine.... but the 9x16 ET15 rears stick out of the rear arches and that's a no-no. Although there is conflicting info on if it's the law for the whole wheel to be inside the arch, or just the tread of the tyre. Still that's another matter.... So I guess I need toget these arches widened to cover the tyres (205/40/16 for informations sake). Question is, can an early style rear arch be flared enough to cover the whole wheel ???? Anybody got their arches flared on a early style and how much did it set you back ? Did the arches need painting after ?

Trust me it's not all glowing in Germany..... got a courier to ship my Borbets and it took them 4 weeks to fine the delivery address. I wouldn't mind if it was some back alley, but they claimed no-one was in when they went to deliver. they shutup when i told them the delivery address was a petrol station that's open 6am till 9pm ;) I actually called ThinkAuto recently to ask about a TÜV for a Mocal 13bar... they were very helpful to me and even got me a number of there distributor in Germany.

Same here... last time at g-werks my charger was showing just below 16 on the gauge.

I'm running 16's with 215/40/16 both front and back (front 7,5 and rear 9 wide) At first I thought I'd need 215/45/16 but after checking with my GPs the speedo is almost spot on (well as near as a Corrado speedo ever gets) anybody confirm if the 215/45/16 give the same results with the speedo ?

Fitted my 50mm chin spoiler to stop that nasty rubbage on hills ;) Fitted my Borbets and drove it for once....

I'm after a pair just incase.... Can you let me know the price and I'll paypal you... (UK delivery ;) )

I'jm sure you could get his Rocco cheap enough... after all he can't drive it AND needs 4K for fines ;)

Yep standard 2 speed fan.... If you take the plug off the rad you can short the wires to get it to kick in at low and high. Good test for the fan. What temp does the fan kick in at. Should be about 90° I think. You could let the car sit and when she hits 90° check that the fan kicks in on slow. Also when she's running (carefully) feel the top and botton rad hoses. If the coolant is going through the RAD then both should be hot. I had a bad thermostatic switch on mine that stopped the water flowing through causing overheating. This then blew my heatermatrix due to the extra heat. So best to sort it out quick sharp.

I don't think GSF do the matrix to be honest... I had to do mine a few weeks back and it took 2 people to get the matrix bypassed. In my G60 (german spec) there was an awful lot of things in the way. Good to get a second pair of hands and a U bend copper pipe to stop th tubes from bending and causing flow problems.

I had the GSF ones in mine... they ran for about 6 months then needed replacing again. Better off with quality parts as the GSF ones seem very low quality.