Mawrick

those where the first things I was thinking of - figured those out. But there is a "cardboard" thingy (with some "foam" on it) on top of the 2 radiators - was wondering how that is supposed to sit, but I put it in one way - not sure if it's correct though....:)

Thnx, I figured out the brackets - it's the ones that sits on the radiator itselfe - not realy sure if they are put into place before or after the frame for the lights etc goes in though. Still some small plastic bits I haven't figured out - is it by any chance supposed to sit some plastic behind the lights on both sides? - if anyone knows...:)

Anyone have any pics showing how those angled brackets (2) sits on the radiator/AC radiator. Also interested in seeing how that "cardbord" plate with some foam on it on the top sits. EDIT: VR6 model

degreased, washed and put on most of the front (bumpers ++), also greased up the hood release mechanism - hopefully it will be move a bit easier now. Propably forgot to put something in there as there is two small screws (on the same bar that holds the frame for the lights) - but couldn't figure out what they are for.........:(

Finnished bleeding the f**** clutch - turned out to be a few minutes job once I found the right "methode" to do it :) So car actually did it's first "run" on it's own today (roughly 15meters out from the garage and back) :)

Just to answer my own Q. It seem that the only way to get it to "let go" is actually to take of the battery - taking of the vacuum line from the pump doesn't seem to do the trick. :)

Just thought I'd give a little feedback on how I finaly was able to bleed out the clutch. I filled a squezable plastic bottle with brake fluid. Connected a trasnparent hose to it and connected the hose to the bleed niple of the slace cylinder. Made sure that the hose was empty of air - filled with brake fluid. Opened up the lid on the brake fluid container on the car. Held some presure on the bottle, and opened the bleed valve. Squeezed in brake fluid, and made sure not to let any air bobles get into the cylinder - had to close the nipple a few times and take of the hose again to let new air into the bottle and then do the same thing over again. Now it seem's like it's working properly - will do a small bleed out again later on (the normal way) - just to make sure all air is out. When I did this - bleeding the clutch was a matter of minutes work - after fiddling trying to get it to work for hours the "normal" way...:( Hopefully might be of help to a few people now and then :)

not had any luck bleeding it yet. the fluid container was never bleed down totaly so presume the master to be ok. Can't say I could find a bleed valve on it though (only one pipe going in and another going out). Gona try to pump fluid into the bleed valve of the slave, and take the air out thru the container........had a tip that might work better. Hopefully will turn out ok :)

no one got any tips on this? (any way to force the locks open/closed individualy?.

Not a Corrado question, but thought I'd ask here anyway. My Passat VR6 have started acting strange with the central locking system (vacum operated). Only one door and the rear "door" seem to open/lock. the others stay in locked position - one of those doors are open - and can't get it to get in locked position - even if the lock on it is in closed position. Have tried to take out the vacum from system to no avail - can't even force the locks up...:( Any tips greatly apreciated...:)

Loosen the small Z-screw that holds the "plastic" ring and rotate it to adjust the height - remember to thighten the Z-screw again (make sure you don't thight it to hard, as it can damage the threads.)

what I have noticed though is that the temp gauge rises up when I turn the ignition - anyone know where this get's it's signal from ?. And if that might be the cause of the pump running.

hmmmm. all my senders are new - any other tips that might have this suc**** running?.

good to hear, got a bit worried for a sec - then I guess everything is fine after the rebuild....:)

Anyone know if the aux-water pump is supposed to be "buzzing" when only the ignition is on?. If not, any idea what might cause it to buzz away?.

Is there a bleed valve on the master cylinder as well (on all models - as I couldn't see any on mine), if so should/must this be bled before the slave, I would think the vacum should get it through.... Also - what if the clutch pedal have been pressed while the slave was out from transmission - it says "caution" in the bentley about it, but realy not sure what's the trouble with it. (I don't think it's been pressed though but just to make sure)...:)

hmmm.....tryed with the vacume thingy - to not much avail - any other tips for doing this?. And do the brakes have to be totaly bleed before the clutch? (I would presume the clutch is on it's own circuite).

was thinking about buying something like this: hooks up to air-compressor and makes vacum... EDIT: btw do the brake have to ble bleed before the clutch ? (I'v changed all brake lines etc)...

reviving this old thread - as I have trouble bleeding the clutch - the pedal just seem to be "dead", I'v pumped it quite some time - but only seem to be coming air from time to time. Would my best option be to buy a vacum "drainer" and hook that up to it? - if not any other tips - as it doesn't seem to be much progress pump the pedal - close the drain-plug, take out pedal and repeat.......

Finnished the coolant system, and fired up the car after the rebuild :) - figured out I have a bag ignition switch - will have to do this some other day...:(

And FINALY "lift off" - well not quite, but atleast I got to start it up today - so seem to be working alright after the rebuild, so an important milestone reached :)

btw, will the car run when this is totaly broken off? (mine broke all the way off when refitting it) - gona be doing a "test" start after rebuild this coming week.

I'v seen em on ebay before, but couldn't find it...:(

Anyone know if there is any companies in europe that supplied a fix for PCV thing, like this one: http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Mk3-VR6 ... p_309.html

My 95 got a normal speedline as spare.......looks like it's more or less unused....:)