quicky1980

have you moved any parts in the dash? ie stereo etc? make sure you havent chaffed any wires to the switch

im wondering if your tempurature sensor on the side of the head may have given up the ghost at 20degrees = 1000ohms at 60degrees = 250ohms at 100degrees = 75ohms you may need to set up basic idle too. further details are in the haynes manual but if you still have trouble let us know

i dont know if this is related to the really bad running but ive noticed that the brakes seem heavy, as if the servo isnt working. im sure i connected up all the servo pipes ok. this may be to do with the carrier swap or suspension change. just thought i best say incase someone links the two problems

Not my week really. Ive tried searching . Ive changed suspension all round and added g60 carriers to my rado 2.0 16v. now i have no ABS light and braking is heavy as if servo isnt working. could this be related to my bad running of the engine? i think i felt the braje pedal clunk when i started the engine# i did disconnect the one abs sensor on the front passenger side, so not sure if this is the prob thanks

at tdc dizzy points at lead 1 and runs 1 3 4 2. Got her running, not very well. but i got a new plastic intake (old one split), second hand vag dizzie. and second hand isv. so what would make her run badly? it backfires and is generally a bag of sh*t. in at garage tommorow so if i cant get it done today its up to the pros lol

ok, used my golf haynes manual for reference and it said to put a bulb across -ve LT terminal, and to good earth. it said that if the bulb was on then i should rotate clockwise untill it went out, but it never did go out. so either this is diff to a golf or somethings wrong with my car. could i have damaged my ecu when rotating the dizzy? also when turning over by starter i sometimes get what i would guesse to be a backfire, its seems to come out of a inlet crack but cant be sure about that. i know my lambda probe was probably on its way out before i did this job too.

ive attacthed pics of the the cam sprocket stamps, this is as close as can get them (ive tried half a dozen times at least). is this ok? its at tdc, all the other markings are 100% spot on. So the only one im unsure about now are the cam sprockets so would apreciate if people think this is right. if they are, what should i do now with the ignition.

due to popular demand i will give it another try on Sunday. i did check the flywheel marks, and every other mark(cam cover, belt cover). the only things left could be the cam chain sprokets may still be out of alignment. if its not i may have more seriouse problems, hope not so ill let you all know on sunday or monday how things have gone.

how so?

just tried a search with no luck i have an exhaust off a 89 golf 16v, and i want to put it on my 93/93 rado 16v i know the hangers are different but ill bend these to fit. will the exhaust fit ok otherwise? ive heard early exhaust where run differently to late throught rado's. if so how much different? anyone tried this?

Just bought some and fitted them to my car, i know its a bit late now but will it behave ok? also the suspension is supposed to be 70mm lower but still looks standard hight. will it lower ok even though its for a different car and will it lower when the car is driven? thanks

i understand that but i really havent got time for it at the moment. ill just ask them what the mistake was. thats if they can find it. thats a point, can mechanincs still charge even if they dont fix it?

bugger, still no good! ive noticed theres a split in the air intake rubber. im wondering if this is the problem? only thing telling me it isnt is that it ran ok before i changed the cams were changed. also i was lazy and didnt change any of the gaskets on the manifold so this may also be contributing to the non running. im so fed up with it now ive booked it in to the garage. only problem is that they cant have it till wednesday. so i got ages to wait. oh well it will give me chance to change the disks and suspension

im 80% sure that the cams are lined up correctly will check all the marks again today. getting fed up of stripping and rebuilding at the moment. the dizzy seems in the right place as i markedd the position before i got started. i changed the manifold to 50mm jobbies too. could this be causing these problems?

if i have made a mistake with the bottom end not being at the correct tdc and 180degrees out, will the car run (be it very badly)? because im geussing this may be the only thing left to try. if not then ill send my car off to the garage and hopefully they can sort it. fingers crossed

right, gone back to begining again. cam chain sprockets are spot on as far as i can tell (there fiddly) bottom end tdc is spot on top end tdc is spot on it runs, but its not happy, its very lumpy. h100vw, said its possible that one of the cam followers may have stuck. could this be so? he said to wait and let oil pressure drop and then try again. ho long about? i can hear some sort of clang/knock, h100vw said this could be due to sticking valve? doubt its valve/piston hitting as ive checked by hand to see if there's any contact and there isnt. i have inc pics to see if any1 can see wher im going wrong if anyone is in the worcester area i will gladly pay for someone to come and sort it out with me. help im at my whits end

ok did some more today and found the notch on the bottom pulley so i lined that up to the mark. my cam sprocket was out by 180degrees so i change it round. double checked my cam chain sprokets and they seemed slightly out 1 tooth. so i rotated it round. so that should be sorted. now with cam sprocket spot on the mark and bottom pulley alos on the spot i placed the cam belt on. put everything back together. tried starting but nothing so i turned the dizzy round. only place i could find which made it kinda work was fully clockwise (as far as it can go). this cant be right. would there be another position here the dizzy will make the engine work? if not where can i be wrong now???

as far as i know the cam chain sprockets are correctly lined up, but will double check tomoro. ive been talking to saysomething and reckons it may be the ignition timing. wish i take the bottom pulleys off to double check the timing.

cool, kinda knew all that, but like i said i cant get the top pulley off to see the mark. should i be able to see it withought removing? any ideas on how to romove pulley bolts? these are proper rounds off, even with hex. im thinking of drilling them out

i have a rado 2.0 16v and ive spent today changing my cams to kr versions. pretty sure i got them lined up properly. so i started to put things back together. turned the camshaft by hand and felt resistance (as if valve was hitting the cylinder) so i undone the timing belt tensioner and rotated the camshaft round slightly. felt free so i stuck it all together and turned the ignition. nowt, just starter motor spinning fast, so i thought maybe my timing was out by 180degrees. again i took timing belt off and rotated the cam by 180degrees. put it together checked it turned free and started her up this time it started but ran very badly and coughed to a stop withing a few seconds. my main problem is that now im not sure how to set it up again. i cant get the pulleys off (bolt heads rounded off by previouse owner) so cant check in the old fashioned way. :( i heard about the markings on the flywheel, but not sure what they look like, will it also show tdc of the the bottom end. im at a loss for where to start. please please help. if anyone is willing to give me their phone number so i can talk to them and sort it out quick would be great. thanks

ye think so has anyone got pics of there car on similar setup?

is this too low? how much rubbing will there be? if i cut the arches will it be ok? i have 17's with 40 profile tyres thanks

like i said one of the lenses has cracked so may be because the reflector is dirty/cack but thanks for letting me know your opinions, think ill avoid the hassle

ive uprated my lights already, but just find all old vw lights dim. fog lenses are already cracked so that wont bother me for now. im just about to change a lens cus its cracked. just thought, i wired up my fogs to mains on the golf and its never failed an mot. it did help with visibilty do police actually check this kind of stuff?

because i still find my main beams still too dim after loom uprgrade and change of bulbs i was wondering, if its possible to use a relay so i can turn the fogs on when i have main beams on too. is this legal? if not i may have to put an aux switch so i can turn on/off this feature