Henny

That's 'cos (IIRC) each tooth is about 8degrees! :|

the timing is where the dizzy makes the spark occur in relation to the position of the crank. If you get the engine set up to 6degrees, in theory it's then possible to take off the dizzy cap, mark it up and measure 1degree, then turn it so that you've added on the extra degree... I say in theory 'cos I've always just used an adjustable timing strobe... :|

nope, you need an adjustable timing strobe to set it to 7degrees. A normal timing stobe will allow you to set the timing to 6degrees by using the marker on the flywheel. Any other setting (except for 0 degrees!) needs an adjustable strobe to achieve... :|

mark on flywheel is 6 degrees. You need an adjustable timing strobe to get the engine set to exactly 7degrees.

as per PM to Eric, I'll confirm on Sunday when I actually have my new car in my possession! ;) 8)

the temp senders are on the plastic flange on the front of the head where the top hose to the radiator attaches to the engine. You can swap the connectors with the engine running if you really want to, and that way you'll even see if the sensor was doing anything at all! 8) They're just a thermo-resistor, so there's no danger in swapping 'em about when the engine's running or not running... 8)

Ah... I'm not knocking ALL castrol oils, GTX and the like are great... It's just Magnatec that I know about problems with... 8)

the charger/powersteering bracket is held on by the same bolts as the waterpump - they're those weird bolts with the head halfway down 'em and a thread at each end... I can't see how you'd do that without removing the supercharger... :|

check that the idle switch on the throttle body is: a) working (test with multimeter for continuity when pressed) b) Connected to the multiplug c) pressed by the linkage when the throttle is closed. If all of these are OK, then try swapping the blue and black temp sender connectors over. It's quite possible that you have a dead blue sender, and if the engine behaves properly with the blue connector onto the black sender, then this'll show you that it's the blue sensor that's dead... 8)

all new caps (including VAG ones) are now blue... no-one knows why though... :|

mmmm nice cranks and parts for sale HERE With the dollar being so weak at the moment, now's the time to get one too! ;) 8)

M15 VW, skimask, baseball bat and gaffa tape... ;)

yup, he's right... the only reason they didn't make it a diesel was 'cos they were having problems getting all the plumbing into the head for a diesel... :|

main dealer for what make? (just out of interest) 8)

you need a new blue temp sensor then... 8)

I'm just quick with the search function... ;) :lol:

yup! That's right... 8) You could try swapping the connectors for the blue and the black sensors over and see if that makes any different. The black one does the temp gauge, the blue one does the ECU, but they're pretty much identical, so if you swap 'em over and find that the car runs better but the temp gauge doesn't work properly, then you've found your problem... ;) 8) p.s. the only stupid question is the one you don't ask but don't know the answer to... ;) 8)

Majik, you ain't looked for a G60 recently then... :| I didn't find one for under £2500 while I've been looking, and quite a few of the ones around 3K I went to see were utter dogs... :| Oh, and most needed a charger rebuild on top of that... :(

3.5mm internal diameter x 100cm long :mrgreen: Oh, and Ta! :D 8)

blue temp sensor and O ring will set you back about £9 from GSF or euro (or about £18 from VAG! :roll: ) It's a 1 minute job to swap it over... 8)

20valver, you just need to drum it into the insurance company for it to be classed as a club... I got a discount for C-F from Flux and from HIC last year and I know a few people have got discounts for mentioning Dubforce and Matey-Matey too... It just depends on the insurance company as to if they'll do it or not... 8)

get a cheapish 1.8 16V and then save any cash left over to sort out any problems with the car... 8) Because the 2.0 is newer, you're unlikely to get one for under 2K... :(

They're in the 2 pipes which go into the bulkhead at the back of the engine bay. Big metal/plastic lumpy thing with 2 rubber pipes going in and 2 coming out and through the bulkhead.

that's the fan run on temperature sensor... The brown wire should be connected like that... 8)

davidwort, when a heater matrix fails it leaks from around the joints which hold the parts together (it's like a mini radiator, ie a core with 2 end tanks) It may just weep for a while before it finally gives up completely. I reckon that the best way to test it is to bypass it in the engine bay with a piece of copper tube and see if your water leak continues...