Henny

depends on the design of 'em... post up a pic and someone'll tell you what they are... 8)

Actually, it's Ian... Yeah, I'd agree with Degs though, you'll probably find your wiring has been hacked about and that's where the fault lies... you may also want to check that the delay circuit in the light itself is OK, as I have heard about these going faulty and never switching off before... Connect the light fitting up to a permanent live, a permanent earth and a wire you can use as a switch to earth and see if it works that way... if it still stays on permanently, I'd say your delay has died... ;)

to be honest, I'd probably still bump it once just to prove where the fault is... but bear in mind that if you've not had your chains changed, then they may have stretched and could jump and cause even more problems... :| It's a bit of a risky one on a VR6... the 4 cylinder ones don't suffer as badly as the cam belt is easy to change and are normally changed at 50 to 60K miles-ish anyway so should be in reasonable nick... :|

kangarooboy, Bump = push start Jump = connecting another cars battery to power the car being started...

your original wheels will have an offset of around 30 or 35... 41 is a little on the high side for a valver... :|

Ooops, :oops: didn't notice it was a VR... As Mat says, don't bump start your VR as you may end up jumping a tooth on the cam chain... :|

Betcha you can bump start it (push start) If you can, then you've either got a jammed starter or a dead starter switch. Do the lights on the dash/LCDs dim when you try and start it? If they don't then it's more likely to be the switch. If they do, then I'd bet on the starter having jammed...

yup, I'm with Mike here... check the engine and gearbox mounts and change if dead. Also swapping the gear oil for some nice new Redline MT oil will make a nice change too... 8)

sounds like one of your door switches has either lost it's wire or is jammed. Check the switch by the hinges on both doors and have a look under the bonnet for a switch there. Some alarm installers will tap into the door switches for the alarm's bonnet switch. You may need to remove the switch and check that the wire behind it is still attached and in good condition... if it shorts to earth, then it will cause the light to stay on permanently... :?

*goes to hire transit van and buy a balaclava...* ;) :lol:

yup, fuse 3 or the contacts on the dimmer switch have given up and need some cleaning and re-adjusting (bending so that they touch the resistive coil again! ;) ) Do the lights in ALL of the switches still work, or is it ALL dash illumination that's gone? (ignore the headlamp switch, as it's not on the dimmer circuit! ;) )

I know Jim, I do mean it though... ;) :twisted: Teach the little feckers a lesson they won't forget easily... :2gunfire:

Not the most PC answer in the world there Jim, but I think one that most people are starting to come to the realisation that it may just be the only way to stop 'em... ;) Shame a few of 'em in public and the rest would think twice... Oh, and it'd be a damn site cheaper than sticking 'em in jail for a few months, more effective and provide entertainment for all the family too! ;) 8)

yup, Kev, I remember that one... was a car I wanted my Golf to aspire to be one day... 8)

eh? this smells more and more like a garage making work for the sake of it mate... :| What makes 'em think that the water pump needs replacement and that the head gasket may be going?!? Water pumps on VWs make it pretty obvious that they need changing as they tend to spit the coolant out when the engine is running... ;) Head gaskets are also pretty easy to diagnose on 'em too, so unless your car has dropped ALL of it's coolant from the waterpump, they should be able to tell pretty spot on if it's gone or not before they do the pump... :| If I were you, I'd get a second opinion before committing to any more work being done on the car once the clutch is sorted... :?

Superchargers tend to need rebuilds at around 50K miles on a standard pulley... this is reduced to about 30K on a 68mm pulley, or around 25K on a 65mm pulley... You live in a good place to own a G60 based car as you have both G-werks and JMR on your doorstep (both just outside Rustington) and both are the most recommended places to get G60 superchargers rebuild and the engines worked on... 8) There is little point in changing the chip without changing the pulley... it may give you a little increase, but not an awful lot. Your best bet is to budget for a decent rebuild of the charger, getting it ported and flowed while it's being rebuilt, and then put a 68mm pulley and corresponding chip on at the same time... this should mean that you'll need a charger inspection (not neccesarily rebuild! ;) ) every 18 months to 2 years if you use it within the average milage people drive... I'm looking at getting mine done every 18 months due to driving her around 20K miles a year, but at £300ish every 18 months, that's not too bad in my book! 8) Hope this helps... 8)

*cough* it's HenNy :roll: *cough* The bushes will have a cracked and worn appearance around the rubber outers if they're on their way out... an MOT tester should be able to identify dead ones as they are part of the MOT test... 8)

That'll be the Weber Redline Firebreather I keep on going on about then! :D 8) Excellent piece of kit! 8)

That's not too bad then... 8) Oh, and water pumps are only around £30 and aren't too difficult/time consuming to do on a valver... 8)

Common leaks tend to be from the following places: Plastic flange on the side of the head. Metal water pipe which runs around the front of the block and then over the gearbox has rusted through. Split rubber hose (any of 'em...) Headgasket weeping Possibly also the plastic flange on the front of the head, the oil cooler or even the expansion tank itself. You'll have to have a good look around the engine while it's warm to see if you can see where the exact source is... :| Good luck... 8)

check the blue wire which comes off the alternator... if you battery is showing 12 to 14V (increasing as revs rise) and the battery is holding it's charge even on a long run, it sounds like the signal wire to the warning lamp has become damaged to me... ;)

it's a larger diameter throttle body. It'll allow more air to flow into the engine which will increase the fuelling as well and thus give you slightly more power... 8) how much more, I have no idea on a VR6 though... :?

right hand side of the engine looking from the front of the car, or from the drivers seat?!?

I think that's your problem then... I don't know of ANY kit available which will drop a Corrado by only 20mm, they all start at around 30mm... Odds are that you're running on the original suspension and bushes/top mounts/bumpstops and they're well past their sell by dates... :| That'd make her handle REALLY badly, feel loose, vague and just generally nasty rather than the nice tight communicative feel that a Corrado should have.... :? Get the suspension checked out and I'll bet you find that it's worn out... :| (or had a coil chopped off the springs to lower the car 20mm... :| )

I'm pretty certain that there are more bolts holding the VR6 flywheel onto the crank so it won't fit a G60... The Golf 1.8 one should though... 8) Phat? can you confirm/deny? 8)