Henny

feck! That'll be "interesting" to drive" :| :crazyeyes: With an exhaust that short too, I bet she's not exactly quiet, and I REALLY hope he's got some sort of heavy weight in the front else he's likely to start pulling wheelies! :lol:

You'd need the engine, charger, pipework, intercooler, radiator (and pipes) engine wiring loom, ECU (+wiring loom) and exhaust downpipe (and probably some more bits too) Cheesy is just in the middle of doing just this, probably worth having a word with him about it... DON'T forget to upgrade your brakes too though! :roll:

VR6 Corrados are ALL 5 stud, (5x100) so their standard wheels DO have 5 holes... All other Corrados are 4 stud (4x100), so VR6 wheels will not fit onto the 8V,16V or G60 cars...

JMR = John Mitchell Racing = John Mitchell's company = 16VG60 on this forum... 8)

I have no idea what kinda power you'll get out of it (I've still yet to get mine onto a set of rollers with her running properly) but you can easily get a lot more with a decent capacity increase... 8) Don't overbore to more than 83mm though else your walls will be too thin to take the pressures reliably... Both G-werks and JMR do 1900 conversions, with Darren's being 1870ish cc (can't remember exactly what) and Johns being 1940 (which is what my engine is) Both use quality components and will give you a nice engine at the end... John's also uses a different crank with the G60 rods to get the extra CCs where Darren's uses the standard crank and rods... 8) I've not driven one of Darren's yet, but I know it should be good... I can state that mine's a little beastie and there's a fair few people here that have seen and experianced that in the flesh! :mrgreen: :twisted: Cost wise? you need to phone 'em up and ask... 8) Oh, and a toothed belt conversion and an external oil cooler should be on your list too :wink: 8)

:oops: I feel ashamed that I managed to spot that... :| :roll: :oops:

Depends on the light colour you'd get and how reflective it is... can't see why not if the light is a reasonable white colour... Just gold plate it with white Gold if you're worried! ;) 8)

rebore it to 1900cc and balance/lighten the bottom end... ;) 8) That'll get you some nice extra horses... and take some weight out of your wallet making your car lighter too! ;) :lol:

ride height should be measured from the centre of the wheel to the lip of the wheel arch both front and back. Your problems sound like your tracking/camber is badly out, or your bushes (including bump stops and top-mounts) are shagged and in need of replacement.... :| Original ride height can be found by using the search HERE

yes, but I'm up in Cheshire... :| At 70mph I'd bet you'll have bent at least 2 valves on a valver... :(

they should be... it's the glass that gives the beam pattern, so, once you'd adjusted 'em properly, they should be OK... 8)

not from memory... and I can't even go and have a look at my car 'cos it's at the bodyshop being "evaluated..." :| :cry: I'll have a look at the photos and post back then... 8)

Please bear in mind that the side skirts that Venom sell are PLASTIC, not fibre glass... They are much better quality, last longer, don't crack and fit a hell of a lot better (and easier!) than the fibreglass ones! That's why I put a link to those more expensive ones up... 8)

is it just me, or does that look horribly like a Fiat 127 under all that plastic?!? :?

yup, you're right dr_mat, BUT, the oxidisation in the copper wire becomes more resistive when cold and damp... ;) You're right about the battery though, however Craigs8vgti, stated that he'd had the battery checked, so I'm just offering alternative suggestions... 8)

Eh? what's the seal that goes around the outside of the metal panel made of then?!? Felt like rubber to me when I swapped mine between the metal panels of the 3 sunroofs I've had in my 'rado before I moon-roofed her!

Did you tell the garage? you should get compensation out of 'em and you shouldn't have to pay for the spilt petrol either! ;) If their equipment is faulty, then they are likely to get done by the HSE 'cos petrol ain't something you want faulty equipment pumping! ;) :|

you DO need to have the ignition on with ANY VW with ABS to bleed the brakes properly... If you don't, you'll never get all the air out of the pump... :roll:

check all of the smaller vacuum pipes around the engine... there's a lot of 'em and if one's off, split or missing, then your engine will run like a dog...

any chance of a pic? I have a feeling that this is there for an engine mount when the original casting of the block was used in the MKI Golf... I could be completely wrong though... :|

yes, you need a new fan. The reason these go is that the bearings in the fan wear out, causing the motor to pull more current than normal. This makes the resistor pack heat up and blow the thermal fuse... That's exactly what it's there for, to prevent the resistor pack from catching fire! ;) The only way (at least that I know of) to fix this is to put in a new fan... Euro and GSF both sell 'em for a hell of a lot cheaper than VW do! ;) 8) Oh, and welcome to The Forum... 8)

fla, that probably just re-set the ECUs fault codes... get it to a garage ASAP, I'd bet that you'll find an error code in the ECU for the crank sensor... ;)

change the earth strap which runs from the battery to the chassis and then to the gearbox... it'll have gone green and oxidised. The cold weather will make it even higher resistance so your starter motor just can't get enough current to turn the engine fast enough for it to fire up... 8)

have a look in the events section... there's one down south in December IIRC.. 8)

300bhp for the distance of a rally, then a full rebuild/new engine... ;) Oh, and possibly a new supercharger during the rally if it blows up... You've got to remember that VW motorsport (and any pro-rally team!) has a HUGE budget and sees things like superchargers/turbos as disposable... if an engine completes a rally, great, scrap it and put a new one in to make sure it lasts the next one... :? A road car is a totally different scenario, so 250bhp (without a capacity increase) is at the top end of the performance/reliability trade off on a G60 engine...