Henny
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Everything posted by Henny
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sounds like the sensor has either become damaged or come loose to me... Next time you're running low, take out the sender from the tank and check that it's clean and isn't obviously damaged... Good luck! Tip: you should be able to get around 350 miles out of a full tank, simply reset your trip counter every time you fill up to give you an estimate of how much fuel you've got left... ;)
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yup, I'd go with fuel pump...
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it's glued as standard from the factory... feck knows why though... :roll:
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eep! I've just checked on my last petrol receipt... :| 58.95 litres = as near as damn it 13 Gallons... meaning I'm getting around 26MPG out of the car on the normal daily commute into Manchester and back... I was right about 350miles meaning I've got about a couple of gallons left though! 8)
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Have you actually checked your injectors yet? I'd bet that they're the original ones and are in need of replacement due to not sealing properly or being slightly clogged.... do a search for "jamjar" written by me and you'll find out how to test your injectors... ;) 8)
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2.0 16V should have a 15gallon tank in it (it was only the early G60s and 1.8 16Vs which got the 12 gallon tank) I tend to fill my G60 up every 350 miles to be safe, even though I know there's a good couple of gallons left in there... 8)
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I'd bet it's actually classed as part of the driveshaft and not available seperately... I couldn't work out how to get the central bit off mine, so I've left it on! :lol: :mrgreen:
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yeah, thanks 8) Shame it doesn't look quite so clever now... :( Have a look HERE and see if it's the same leak as I'm on about... 8)
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sounds like the plastic flange on the front of the block to me... that's the common place for waterleaks, but it's also worth checking the waterhoses which connect to it too... 8) If it is the black plastic flange, then do the one on the right hand side of the head while you're changing it, else you'll have to do it not long after as the increased pressure will cause the seal in that one to leak! :roll:
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I tend to get my alarms installed by Audiolectrics in Macclesfield.... always had good service, and never had a problem with any of the kit they've supplied me... 8) Send Gav (H100VW) a PM as I know he sometimes does alarms/immobilisers, but I'm not sure if he's still VSLIB registered or not...
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yup, in a nice black bottle with orange writing on it IIRC... (guess what's in mine at the moment! :lol: )
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have a look at THIS for pics... 8) oh, and the JB weld trick didn't last long... :roll:
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also have a check behind your front wheels to make sure that the brake wear indicator wiring isn't catching on anything and is in good condition... This is supposed to flash on the brake warning lamp (it's not just a handbrake warning... ;) ) when the pads wear past a set point, but most garages don't fit the sensor pads as they're oversensitive, more expensive and have less braking material on 'em, so you're paying more for pads which will last less time! :roll: Not all Corrados had this though, so it's worth checking... you'll be able to tell by the wiring on the front struts. If there's 2 sets of wires on it, one will be for the ABS (will connect onto a sensor behind the hub) the other is the brake wear sensor wiring... if it exists on your car, but isn't connected to the brake caliper/pad, give it a squirt with WD40 to clean it out as sometimes crap gets in there and causes the light to flicker as it shorts the terminals... :roll: Good luck!
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yeah, with ya there Gav... Didn't realise it was a 2.0 16V else I'd have mentioned the Lambda myself... 8)
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same here Andy665... removing the CC and fitting a cold air feed makes a nice difference... 8)
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Add this one too, but seeing as the question was answered in the first couple of posts and an alternative has also been suggested by Kev, is it really a problem?!? :roll:
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oil pump lives inside the sump... it's not difficult to change, just messy and your arms will think you're being tortured 'cos you'll be working with your arms up for so long... :|
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cut out while you've been driving? Definately starting to sound like a crank position sensor then.... :|
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Get in touch with G-Man... (Darren from G-werks) he does inspections on chargers and will let you know if it's OK, or if it needs any work doing... 8)
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yup, Gav's correct here... the G60 ECU is set and has no variables to reset in it... 8)
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there's a shed load of thin vacuum hoses on the 1.8 16V which go to the airbox and around the engine to all sorts of places (can't remember where exactly, it's been a few years since I had a 16v...) If ANY of these are damaged it'll run like a sack of poo... :?
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that's one for Kev I'm afraid... I've not worked on a VR6 before, so I can't comment on the location but I recognise the symptoms could be a cam position sensor fault... :)
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get a couple of the crystal de-humidifier traps you can get from B&Q and the like, and stick one on the dash and one on the parcel shelf... That'll stop any mildew forming as long as you remember to check and empty 'em regularly... 8) I've always put my car up onto blocks/axlestands with large pieces of wood on 'em when I've stored my car to prevent flat-spotting the tyres... but I have tended to store my cars for a bit longer than a winter... ;)
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nope, that's not normal... :| Get that checked ASAP! :?
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if the pump's buzzing, that also rules out the fuel pump relay which is why you listen for it... ;) I'm wondering if you've lost your cam position sensor.... how's the car been running before you did this?