Henny

You called? ;) :lol: Good to hear it's back again Dinkus... 8) *edit* bugger.... beaten to it... :oops: :lol:

I got a photo when my old GTI rolled over 100,000 as I was sat on the motorway doing 100mph! :D Do that in a poxy ford then! ;) :lol: (also did the same at 110 and 120 then sold the car... ;) ) To be honest, on a car like a Corrado, 100,000 means jack these days... 250,000... that's a different matter! ;) :lol:

the group buy is still active... it's not actually gotten off the ground completely yet as the manufacturers need to design new ones to allow for the UK spec car speedos/fuel gauges etc... They've currently got my spare set of gauge faces (late spec VR6) to use as templates, and DickDastardly is handling most of the running of the buy now... 8) The issue that we had with them initially was that they don't allow you to be able to see the needles at night so you can't tell where they're pointing... not a lot of use really! :rolll: We think we've gotten around that by using a couple of UV LEDs in place of the top lightbulbs which should just illuminate the needles... 8) Have a look HERE

it's worth opening up the clocks and having a look at them... the temp and fuel gauges work on a sliding bi-metallic spring/lever arangement which sometimes pops off it's guide rails and so stops reading correctly... dead simple to sort out once it's in bits... 8)

I think I too know that feeling all too well Kev... :roll: :oops: :mrgreen:

jedi-knight83, If I can get a piston and get the engine re-bedded in, yes... 8) Oh, and now I've sold the RS4 front bumper, I won't have to mess about taking it off to get onto the rollers anymore! :D 8)

C&R enterprises (apparently...)

If the rear disks are corroding, it sounds like your rear calipers have seized... unfortunately this is one of the Corrados (and MKII golf for that matter) weak points... If they have seized up, then the best thing to do is to get hold of some MKIV golf rear calipers and adaptor pipes, standard rear disks and pads and new rear bearings and just do the lot in one hit... that way you'll have better than standard brakes which won't seize up... 8) Once you've done these then you'll find that the brakes have much more bite... 8) Oil should be Synta Silver which is actually a VAG supplied oil but is actually very reasonably priced! :D Most people here agree that Optimax seems to make a difference to the performance and economy of the Corrado and don't tend to bother with any other additives... You'll probably notice that your fuel economy will keep getting worse for a little while as you get used to the car as you start to push it a little more each time up until a point where the newness factor wears off a little (it never goes completely! ;) ) and you'll start getting more respectable MPG figures! :lol: 8) I only use either genuine VW or MANN filters on my car purely 'cos they're OEM and I know they won't kill my engine... 8) Sump plug on most VWs is a 19mm spanner, but I don't have a VR6, so I can't swear to that.... Oh, and I'm a northern monkey, so I have no idea where J4 M25 is... have a search on here for "no rice" and "Ace Cafe" as these are both pretty big down your way.... 8)

bleed nipple is on the slave cylinder on the top of the gearbox near the coiled pipe... 8) It's exactly the same to bleed the clutch as the brakes, except that you need to lift the pedal by hand as well as push it down 'cos the self return spring isn't strong enough to do it for you... :roll: Oh, and you will have problems if you try to use one of the one-way-valve style kits to do the clutch, you need 2 people, one opening and closing the nipple, one pressing/pulling the pedal... Once you have nice fresh fluid coming out, it'll take a few pumps with the nipple closed tight before the pedal will start to behave as normal... don't worry, this is also normal! ;) Final tip: DON'T forget to pump your brake and clutch pedal quite a bit before you start to try and move the car after bleeding the hydraulic system, else you'll find that the brakes won't be as good as you expect and the clutch biting point will have changed slightly too! ;) :lol:

just ignition so that the ABS light has flashed on and then gone out again... :) Yeah, bleed the clutch as well... it won't hurt and I'd hazard a bet that it's not been changed before... :|

The ingnition needs to be on if you have ABS else the pump won't bleed properly...

the MKIII roof should fit and is usually one of the ones listed with moonroof conversion "how-to"s... How far off was it? I used a Passat (91->95) roof which has a very slightly different profile to it compared with the Corrado's roof, but it's so slight you REALLY have to look for it to notice it... 8)

Welcome to The Forum... 8)

I've got custom made 11mm spacers on the front of my C to clear the Brembos... they've been good for some pretty heavy abuse so far (track days, 1/4 miles and rolling road sessions, as well as my normal driving style! ;) ).... As long as you get hub-centric ones, that are well made, there shouldn't be a problem... 8)

it'd be rude not to Jim.... ;) 8) You KNOW just how damned good they are, and they'd look superb behind your new rims too... 8)

you may also find that a little grease applied to the pedal's pivot will cure it... ;) the amount of muck, sand and grit that gets down there off your feet is unreal, and at least some of it's gonna get onto the pivots during the life of the car... :|

which inlet manifold do you have? Are the "bunch of bananas" straight, or do they flare out at the ends? If you have the straight ones on, then you have the better manifold for low down torque, the flared ones give better top end power, at the expense of some low end torque... 8) Personally, I'd stick with the KR cams, in my experience fast road ones will mean you have to rev the car more to get more out and so loose a bit of low end torque... Pack A head is a good idea and the 4->1 manifold will help too... I'd be tempted to flow the throttle body and inlet manifold while you're in there so that you have a really nice smooth gasflow through the engine which should aid BOTH BHP and Torque nicely... :) Sounds like this could be a nice conversion when it's done... 8)

I knew I'd typed it in somewhere, but I was damned if I could find it... :roll: :oops: :lol:

IIRC he's after a Lupo 1.0... :|

I know, that's why I stated G60... ;) I'm sure John's kits would be checked by John BEFORE he sends 'em out though, so I can't imagine his VR6 kits wouldn't have all the correct parts in 'em.... 8)

8)

yup, Bartek (the owner) works for the Toyota F1 team! :) He helped me out in a BIG way getting me the boost hoses and pipework over here in 5 working days! :crazyeyes: The quality of the kit I got was excellent, and the guy is really easy to deal with... Be aware though, that his credit card payment system is not yet active, so paying for the goods can add some time onto the process, although he is working hard to get this resolved... 8) Thanks for that link Jim.... :) I'll move this into the suppliers section...

I can vouch for John's kits being spot on for a G60... that's what mine runs! :D

...and the boost leak sorted, and decent bottom end shells in which haven't been cooked when the headgasket went, and.... ;) :D I can't wait to see how she runs... 8) (and get rid of this flippin' Fiat Punto hire car... :? )

The windows should work when the ignition is on no matter if the drivers door is open or closed. When the ignition is then turned off, the windows should keep working as normal until the driver's door is opened and then closed, at which point the switches should become dead UNLESS the driver's door is re-opened and the switches are pressed with the door open, in which case the windows should work as normal... To me, this sounds like a fault on the wiring to the window control box. Odds are that you have a dodgy ignition live to the control box or a fault in the control box itself. Check your fuses carefully (although this is unlikely) and check that the connector onto the window control box (behind the drivers rear door card) is attached properly... As daft as it sounds, have you had any other problems with electrics associated with the ignition feed? This could be an ignition switch problem... :?