Henny

I've now got all the parts to put her back together now (except for the piston which John's working on getting for me) all for less than £80! :D The piston has checked out OK with no cracks in it, but I've decided that I'd rather use a new piston which I know is fine, rather than one which has taken the kind of beating that this one has... If the piston ever failed, I'd never live with myself as it would more than likely scrap the engine block... All I'll say is that I'm SERIOUSLY impressed with the strength of these pistons... to take this kinda beating and not crack or split is somewhat impressive... 8)

I only said you may want to put some 5mm spacers on to pull the wheels out towards the outside of the arches to make 'em sit a little less set in... You should just be able to plonk 'em straight on without the spacers though... 8) It's a case of "suck it and see".... :wink:

yup, it's chris's... Oh, and I've edited you link, 'cos it was MASSIVE! :lol:

hi Yandards, yup, I@d go with the swapped power leads theory too... you need to use your multimeter to see which leads have power on them with the key in/out etc... That'll give you big hints as to how it needs to be wired up... :)

you need to change the black temp sender which is in the plastic flange on the front of the head... About £7 from GSF or Eurocarparts... That should sort out your water temp gauge... :)

....or with the correct and proper application of gaffa tape and cable ties.... ;) :lol: (why would you want to change the PCD to 112?!? get some adaptors if there some wheels you fancy)

jedi-knight83, will do... 8) You'll have to excuse the state of the bodywork... she'll probably be going in for respray over winter to sort out the scratches and dents (including the new one... :oops: ) but the engine should be fine by then... oh, and I've just noticed it's the weekend of my 29th Birthday (22nd Oct) too! :D 8)

jedi-knight83, chances are pretty good to be fair... I've got all the parts to put her back together in my hire car at the moment except for the piston which I've decided to change just in case it's cracked internally... John (16VG60) is doing his best to get me one rather than having to fork out for a set of 4! :| The head's going in to get checked and new seats put in if needed on Saturday too... oh, and to have the bolt impression ground down/filled too... :roll: :lol: I'm hoping to have her back together next Sunday... then it's just a case of re-bedding the engine in 'cos of the new crank and big end bearings I'm putting in... 8)

if mine's up and running properly (and re-bedded in again... :roll: ) in time then I may well pop down and show you lot what a proper engine can do... ;) I'm interested to see what mine'll put out too actually... 8)

you just need the correct tool Jim... ;) I've changed that pipe twice on mine since the rebuild with everything staying in place... 8) (had to replace it again after I was sold some crap pipe which burst within a week of being fitted... :mad: )

I'm up for that... ;) :lol: 8)

yeah, G11 and G12 have BOTH been phased out and replaced with G12+ Your dealer meant there used to be 2 types of G12, normal and +... 8)

only on your very first press... :? and you should pump the brakes for a little while once you've changed the pads anyway to get all the pistons to take up the slack before trying to drive the car anywhere, so from then on there is no clearance difference, otherwise as you pad wore down you'd have to press the brake pedal further and further to get 'em to work... :| That's the reason you have to screw the pistons back in when you replace the pads, they're not spring loaded/auto return so they keep the pad VERY close to the disk at all times... There should be absolutely NO difference in brake feel if you're using the same compound brake pads if they were standard, 2mm thicker, or just about to be completely worn out... :roll:

it's just 8mm internal injection fuel hose... most good motorfactors will sell it by the meter for a couple of quid... 8)

that'll easily do it for cooling time Jim, go for it! :D 8)

snap... (well the one that's in my garage is anyway! ;) )

I can...

yeah, mine was leaking there for a while too... just couldn't be arsed to fix it as it only did it for about 30 seconds or so at startup when cold... :oops: as soon as there was some heat it sealed back up again... You're best of fixing this as long as possible after the car has been started/had the ignition switched on as the fuel pressure will be at it's lowest then and the exhaust manifold (the hot bit underneith! ;) ) will be nice and cold... 8) Personally, I'd change the clips for nice new jubillee clips as I don't like that kinda clamp that's on there currently... :|

jimborae, take the bulb out anyway... it could well still be that if the bulb's in there and this would show that the reason it doesn't work is 'cos the switch is borked... ;) :lol: 8)

not on a 16V it won't Kev... ;) (no sunroof self closing on a 1.8 valver :roll: ) Kev's basic method and reasoning is sound though... The motor is out of sync with the roof cassette... Put the roof to fully retracted with the motor. take the motor off and use the switch to make the motor spin as if closing the roof slightly, put the motor back on and CAREFULLY see if the roof will move back a little further.... keep doing this until you are sure the roof is fully retracted. Take the motor off and use the switch to spin the motor as if you were retracting the roof until it stops on it's own... Re-fit the motor and close the roof. It should now stop with the roof fully closed. you should also be able to tilt it properly and close it again, and retract the roof fully and then close it again properly... if it does all of these, then you've got it set up properly again...

the best roads are those which you calibrate to the car's gearbox before you do a power run... these test the resistance through the gearbox to give a much more accurate Engine BHP and Torque figure... The Dubsport road is one of this style, however it's reasonably well known that people weren't happy with the lower figures that they got after a run on this properly set up road so the installers were called back in to "re-calibrate" the road and it now gives "more consistant" figures for BHP@crank... :roll: IMHO the best places to get a rolling road session done are those which don't normally do shoot-out style sessions and only have the road installed to set up the fuelling on a car properly... these guys don't give a damn what BHP figures they get, only that the figures they DO get are accurate so they can set up the car properly... ;) 8) (199.6BHP@wheels during mapping session was the final figure I got on such a road... )

:oops: oooh, I'm all embarrassed and dead chuffed that so many of you like my motor.... the body needs a LOT of TLC at the moment, but after 240+ K miles, and me loosing my cool with the front wing :oops: that's not too suprising! :| Anyway, back on topic, There is, in short, a LOT of damned nice cars on this forum... picking just some out is just soooooo difficult.... my current faves are: A20Lee, the back end isn't my taste, but by God, it's a damned fine example of a modded Corrado... 8) Jay's TT Dash'd car is absolutely stunning IMHO OSV's silver VR6 just does something for me... it just looks soooo damned clean and cool... 8) Kev's VR's simple, easy but novel mods and the fact he's done everything to make it handle and perform as the car should have done from the factory gets lots of respect from me too... Andycowuk's red G60 gets some serious appreciation from me... there's not much obviously done to the looks from the outside, but, handling wise, he's definately got the edge over most of the cars here! ;) 8) Then there's all the nutters with the 4x4 installs going in too... can't wait to see all of these finished and try it on against ya around a track! ;) :lol: 8) soooo many good cars..... 8) Keep up the great work peeps! :D

remember that even stretched tyres will move about on the side walls under "enthusiastic" cornering... Personally, I'd want at least 5 or 10mm more clearance there for peace of mind... 8" with a 35mm offset means that the inside edge sits MUCH closer to the inner wing than a standard wheel would... :|

just to clarify and get all the info in one post... 8) In the engine bay there are 3 main fuel pipes to check for leaks (and yes, mine's leaked from all of 'em at some point or another... :roll: ) 1) pipe into bottom of FPR, both ends - back left of the engine bay as you look at it from the front of the car connecting to the FPR 2) pipe onto fuel rail, both ends - back left of the engine bay as you look at it from the front of the car connecting to the fuel rail 3) pipe from fuel rail to fuel pressure switch - right hand side of the head just in front of the top of the inlet manifold Also check that: The FPR is tightened onto the fuel rail properly (seen one p!ssing fuel out here 'cos some numpty hadn't tightened a new FPR on properly... :roll: ) The tank breather pipe isn't blocked or kinked... it'll be on the left hand (from the front) of the engine bay/inner wing somewhere, trace it from where the 3 pipes come up the back left rear of the engine bay (looking from the front) , the breather is the middle one IIRC... The injectors are properly in their seats (slightly more difficult to check) Around the rest of the car: Check the fuel pipes under the car haven't been damaged anywhere, on a UK car they run along the driver's side under the floor. Check the condition of the fuel filter and the pipes attaching to it. Check the tank is OK and hasn't cracked anywhere (very unlikely) On cars with an external fuel pump, check the pipework and connectors onto this are secure, in good condition, and not leaking... Think that about covers it... 8)

open the boot, take out the boot lamp bulb, close the boot... betcha the current draw which is flattening your battery is gone... ;) This is another common fault on the Corrado... the switch for the lamp is in the lock mechanism and often allows a small current to leak through it as it ages... not quite enough to light the bulb, but enough to just warm it enough to flatten the battery over a few days... :roll: Replace the ignition switch and I'll bet that the head and amp problems go too... ;) The LCD displays on the dash should always be on, but when the key is not in the ignition you should not be able to change the display using the button on the stalk... if you can then your car is permanently on one of the ignition stages, probably due to a dead switch or a dodgy bit of wiring... The LCDs themselves draw next to sod all current... if you disconnect the battery, they keep working for upto 60 seconds or so just on the residual charge in some of the capacitors on the circuit board! :D IMHO, This autoelectrician sounds like he hasn't got a clue what's causing it if he's just pulled out a fuse and said that it could also be the alarm and so disconnected that too... he should have tested the current draw across the fuse with everything switched off (and from the alarm for that matter) to identify exactly where the draw is coming from... it's basic fault finding at it's most basic... you don't just unplug everything in one hit and leave 'em unplugged... that's on a par with dis-connecting the battery every time you leave the car so nothing can flatten it... :roll: :lol: