Henny

ALL 2.0 16V had the late body shell, wings and bumpers... 8)

check the pivot on the actual pedal too... on mine a load of sand had gotten into the pivot (yeah, I don't know how either!) and had made it quite notchy at the top of its travel... Other than that, sounds like it's the master cylinder...

I've not read the rest of the thread, but if you haven't already done it - change the rad, i've had a few that have not overheated but just run hot and only changing the rad has cured it :) Exactly my thoughts there Walesy... I've just read the last page of this thread (trying to catch up on 2 years of posts!) and that was the first thing that jumped to my mind - blocked/furred up radiator... :|

My first G60 was found to have 250K + miles on it's original engine and was still putting out 160+ BHP on the standard pulley, chip and original (although ported) charger! The engines can take mega milage as long as they're looked after properly... Things to do depend on how much you can do yourself, and how much you'd need a garage to do for you (putting the cost up considerably)... Things I would do to the engine would be: New oil pump New water pump New sensors (oil pressure, oil temp, water temp - blue and black sensors) New bottom end shells (MKIII TDI shells fit and are uprated/better wearing... ;) ) New piston rings + re-hohning the cylinders to ensure they bed in properly New head gasket New cam followers That'll give you a basically mechanically fresh engine which, although it'll need bedding in again, should last for a looooonnngggg while... They're all jobs I'd do myself and can be done without taking the engine block out of the car, but I understand that many people wouldn't be comfortable doing this kind of work themselves... Things I'd recommend changing on a 100K+ mileage engine, even if you can't do the jobs yourself: Oil pump Water pump Either of these die, and you're engine and charger won't have long to live if you don't notice in time... :eek:

looks sweet now... 8) much Kudos to you for rescuing a somewhat rough example and getting it back into a very nice condition... :notworthy: :clap:

J-DUB is now being broken for spares... :( Unfortunately I've not got the time to do anything that I had planned to her, and haven't got the space to keep her until I do get time again... It's been a fun ride with her, with plenty of ups and downs, and she will be missed... RIP J562DUB :(

still not found the problem... still not taken the head off though... Kinda ended up getting married and bought a house etc etc etc... so not really had chance to sort it out... YET... I've still got her though, and she will be back on the road, oh yes, she will... and better than ever with any luck! I'll post up what the problem was when I find it, but I'm 95% sure it's the head gasket leaking between cylinders 1 and 2 that's the problem and was caused by the fuel pump having gone weak... it was giving around 2.5 to 3 bar of fuel pressure... the regulator is a 3.5 bar one, so it's going to have been running very, very lean, and I wasn't exactly being subtle as I blew the Lotus away when the mis-fire started... :lol:

so you thought THAT was a thread resurrection?!? :lol: This thread's been quiet for just shy of a whole year! :lol: H-YYU is now sat on the drive of our new home and has a new fuel pump... she's still waiting for me to do the head gasket (2.5 years on!) but she'll be attacked soon to get her back on the road again... she may also find a few more ponies in the process as I've had some time (!) to think up some more modifications while she's been off the road... :ignore: :norty: :grin:

If your insurance find out that you fitted it yourself, your insurance will be invalidated... even if you're involved in an accident, they could get out of paying up due to this! :gag: I got nearly got stung by this when J-DUB was written off... fortunately the tracker I had fitted was additional to the cat1 alarm that I'd had fitted, but even so, it screwed up the agreed value, so I didn't get all the money I should have done for her... :brickwall: :( Any electronic security needs to be fitted by a certified installer to get the insurance approval.... no matter how badly it was installed... They won't know, however, if you've then re-done the installation to tidy it up and make it even more secure... :wink: :ignore:

not today, but on Sunday I stripped J-DUB to a bare shell ready to sell off as spares... :(

good point, well made... :lol:

ignition switch would be my guess, closely followed by....... the headlamp switch... (don't laugh, I'm serious!) The late headlamp switches are known for overheating and generally going wrong/melting/being a bit crap... if yours has failed in an odd way, I can see it could possibly be reverse feeding the fuse box and keeping the engine alive... plus, it's in the correct place for the smoke... ;) It's only a long shot, but if it keeps doing it after having changed the ignition switch, it's deffo worth looking at... Oh. and get a fire extinguisher, just in case...

wheel spin in a g60 is normally caused by one (or a combination) of the following... 1) bad driving! :lol: As above, just booting it WILL normally make a G60 spin its wheels! 2) dodgy tyres - this includes tread depth, make, size (bigger IS NOT always better!), pressure and condition 3) geometry - tracking, caster and camber, and toe in/out make a BIG difference to handling and thus wheelspin. Many places who do tracking DON'T do the camber/toe in/out setting when they do your tracking so leave you with suspension which is still not set up properly 4) suspension - dodgy shocks/springs or simply badly setup suspension will cause the car to throw its weight around causing the front end to go light and so wheelspin. 5) seriously crappy UK roads... speaks for itself... bad surface with gravel or oil/water on it will make for plenty of wheelspin! My G60 doesn't spin its wheels when I'm hammering the hell out of it... the worst I ever got at Santa pod was a slight chirp of the tyres on each change - and that's running 252BHP! :lol:

yup, as above, it's only the Newman cams that G-werks spec'd up to work with their CNC heads that needed the head modifying to clear the cam lobes.... Did mine with a dremmel as it was the prototype CNC head and the cam hadn't been spec'd up when I got it back, so they didn't machine it for me... only took about an hour to get a nice finish and clearance on all parts of the head and then about 10 minutes with a pressure washer to clean out all of the swarf... :lol: 8)

yup, crank change needed for 1940cc... usually done with 83mm pistons... ;) 8)

mine's just cable tied on using the Pacet fan's mounting points and some "meccano" style strips mounted to the original cowling mounts on the radiator... The pacet fan is about 200% better than the original fan, it's also a larger diameter so covers more of the radiator than a standard fan (without cowling) would... It may not use the whole of the radiator as efficiently, but it is DEFINATELY better at cooling the engine down than the standard fan was... 8)

what happens is that Jabba only replace the bearings which "appear to need renewal".... (how you can visually inspect a sealed bearing I'm still in the dark about) The top shaft of the charger is the one with the counterweight on it... the bearing on its end is the one that spins the fastest... these overheat, lock up and throw the counterweight and shaft out of the top of the casing as the timing of the unit gets out of sync grenading the charger as in your pic... normally, it's this bit that breaks the small belt or makes it strip teeth, but this doesn't always happen... This is one of the 3 reasons I'd never use Jabba for anything ever again.... Disclaimer: these are my own opinions, not those of the forum officials. The quote is pretty much exactly what was said to me on the phone by an employee of Jabba not long after I had my 13month old charger re-rebuilt by Darren at G-werks who found some pretty nasty looking things inside my charger which had been left by Jabba.

Got a custom Newman cam in my G60 which I got from G-Werks... excellent quality camshaft... not much use to most people though as it was spec'd for my CNC head... :lol:

have you checked your oil level since you changed it? It's possible that you've not put enough oil back in... check the orange (or red) top of the dipstick tube isn't broken as this will cause you to get incorrect oil level readings when using the dipstick as it will sit too low in the sump showing more oil is present that it actually is... :?

I did it a slightly different way to Cheesewire in that I put 2 spades onto the +ve from the new Pacet fan and plugged them into BOTH switched outputs which used to feed the fan... The reasoning behind this is simple, if the fan switch dies on the lower setting then I'll still have the switched live for the higher temp side of the switch (it's only a 2 temp setting switch as it's a G60) to fall back on stopping my engine from melting.... If the switch is there and works, I think it's worth using the facility as a back up... ;) Plugging into the original wiring also means that the fan-run on will work with your new fan... 8) DanVW, what you're on about doing won't make any difference mate... the fan switch only gives out 12V on any of it's switch temp settings... the original fan motor is the bit with the big resistors in it to make the fan spin at different speeds, not the switch or associated wiring... ;)

intermittent fuel pump? Could be an ignition switch fault.... have you ever changed it? It's only about £25 and is reasonably easy to do (there's even a guide in the Wiki that some kind person wrote ;) :lol: ) and could well be the cause of your problems... ;)

as said, he's done my twice now (and will be doing it again soon when I finish what I'm upto at the moment :ignore: ) and I can't recommend him enough... nice guy, very, very, very good at what he does, and genuinely helpful if something does go wrong (broken charger drive belt anyone... :roll: ) Just book in well in advance to make sure you can get him when you want him as he is always busy... 8)

the bearings in that tensioner have collapsed... You're right that it shouldn't look like that.... :? New belt and tensioner required - nut and stud are also worth swapping at the same time... 8)

the brakes on J-DUB (305mm 4pot brembos with MKIV rears) pulled her down from 100 to 0 in under 3 seconds at Bruntingthorpe... :shock: They're MUCH, MUCH better than the highway code reckons... :lol: Dunno how good they're gonna be now they're on H-YYU as she's not got ABS, so will probably lock up if I hit 'em REALLY hard... :?

rolling road TUNE, or rolling road REMAP? Two VERY different things which will result in two very different outcomes with differing costs... Rolling road tune up will just check that the fuelling is not overly rich/lean and that the timing is about right and give you a print out of power and torque curves. Rolling road remap will create a custom chip for your car with the fuelling and timing setup correctly for your engine all the way through the rev range. If it's the first, then I'd go with the guys above and get an SNS chip for your engine which will show an improvement over the standard or Jabba one... If it's the latter, then you'll end up with the best possible power out of your engine for the mods you've had done (depending on the talent of the mapper!)