Henny

ah, right! some of 'em come with a seal, some don't... seems pretty random as to which do and which don't... :? If I were you, I'd get hold of a pair of seals when you get the blue temp sensor and replace both seeing as it only takes a minute to swap 'em... 8) No idea on the Ohm readings.... I can probably find it out, but not after 6 pints in 2 hours... :? :roll: :oops: :lol:

change the Blue temp sender too... ;) The blue one lets the ECU know what temp the engine is running at, so if it's a pig to start when cold, this'll normally be your problem... :| Both Black and Blue temp senders dying at the same time ain't unusual either... :roll: :?

IIRC Audi 4 stud is 4x108 so they won't fit without modification or spacers.... :?

I was here earlier Gav, but I was just passing due to the call of beer! ;) :lol: At a guess, dannyp01, with that setup you'll be looking at around 180 to 190 BHP REAL figures... Jabba chips are renowned for being a little on the overfuelling side at all revs, so it may be worth you investing in a decent air/fuel meter or getting a wide band lambda test on the car to find out how the car is running.... 8) Dumping the standard intercooler and sticking in somthing slightly better than the original half shoebox will do wonders for the feel of the car, and may up the power slightly, but it'll definately improve the feel when it's warm.... 8) I'm running with a GOLF G60 intercooler with all the original Golf pipework... it's a full width jobbie (fills the whole front of the car) but has the nice advantage of fitting into existing location lugs on the front radiator mount... 8) They're not cheap mind (around £500 inc all pipes) but, by god, do they make a nice difference... 8) Unless you wanna go down the block rebuild path, your only other way to improve the performance of the engine is to start making it breath better... Gas flow the exhaust manifold and fit a JMRacing hi-flow Miltech downpipe and gas flow and port ALL of the inlet system.. It won't give you much more BHP, but it will improve the torque through the rev range and make the car much faster on the road.... 8) Your other BIG issue with a G60 is the gearbox which has a totally cr@p 2nd gear... :roll: Getting this changed for a VR6 2nd will give you around 64mph in second and you could also benefit from an LSD and maybe a different final drive ratio... 8) There's so much you can do, it all depends on what you want the car to do, and what you want to use the car for.... Have a chat with John at JMRacing (16VG60 on the forum) or Darren at G-Werks (G-Man) who are the 2 people I've had the work done by who are on the forum and see what they say... both are well clued up and will listen to what you want to achieve and then try and come up with a solution... 8) There are plenty of other tuners out there too, but these are the only 2 I can recommend other than Stealth racing, as I have little or no experience with anyone else.... 8)

Neither needed to be removed. Only the lower dash is removed to fit in all the air con plumbing. Depends on which version of the aircon it is... I know that one of them has a completely different central air routing box which is behind the middle of the dash (where the matrix is) and there's NO way you can get that in/out without taking out the dash... :? I looked into this briefly when I got my leather interior, and then thought, Sod it, I'll just buy a window blind for when I park it up! ;) :lol:

Don't forget that you still need your key in the steering lock else you won't be able to go around corners! :? :crazyeyes: :lol:

It should be the same on a valver as it is on a G60 (which I've got) On the starter motor you have a THICK wire which goes straight to the battery. On the same point, there's a thick red wire which goes to the alternator. These are both held in place by a 13mm nut. Just behind them (slightly deeper into the engine bay) there is a red wire with a black stripe which connects onto a spade terminal on the solenoid part of the starter motor. This is your starter wire, it fires the solenoid which engages the starter onto the flywheel and also switches on the main starter motor. I can't post up a pic at the mo as my camera -> PC lead is knackered and I'm still waiting for a new one... :roll: Sorry...

it was an overbored KR (1.8) engine with some headwork and different cams in it... 8) Gave around 170BHP IIRC... 8)

you need to change your profile to be GMT+1 ;) :lol: Good to hear you managed to get it back on in the end... 8)

yup, that's how you do the clutch.... 8) Don't try and use a self bleed kit, it won't work... you need somebody to move the pedal up and down as you open and close the nipple on the clutch slave... don't worry about it feeling a bit spongy or not returning as you first use it, just sit and pump the pedal a few times before you try to drive anywhere as it'll self bleed the master cylinder once you've done the slave... 8) Good luck... 8) P.s. It's nice to hear that you've managed to do a job and save money thanks to people on the forum... 8)

it'd definately be a dash out job, but I can't see any reason to take out the screen... :?

that's the american spec center brake light... Looks lovely though... 8)

the whirr is from the ISV and is pretty normal... 8) on the starter motor, there is a thin wire (red and black IIRC) which is on a spade terminal, this is the wire from the starter switch... make sure your car is out of gear and the ignition is on, then disconnect this wire and connect a new piece of wire to the starter's terminal... now tap the other end of that wire onto the live of the battery... if your car starts, you have a fault on that red/black wire.... (broken wire or imobiliser fault would be my bets if you've already changed the switch 8) ) If it doesn't start, get a single jump lead, and connect it from the -ve on the battery to the top front bolt which attaches the gearbox to the engine and try tapping that new wire onto the battery as before.... If it starts now then you have a dodgy earth strap. If it doesn't start odds are the main live from the battery to the starter needs attention. disconect the battery and remove and clean up the 13mm nut and thick wires onto the starter motor... put it all back together (make sure the nut is tight) and try the last step again... If it doesn't start this time, you've got a dead starter motor... :? Good luck! 8)

the bolts for the starter motor also connect the front engine mount on... you'll need to support the front of the engine with a jack (and piece of wood) under the sump to lift the front of the engine slightly so that you can get the bolts out and back in again without any major hassles... 8) It's simple once you know to do that.... 8) you may need to "assist" the startermotor out once the bolts are out with a light tap with the handle of a hammer... ;) Oh, and it's ESSENTIAL that you disconnect the battery! ;) :roll:

Yup... exactly... Let's take a little look at what happened to the rest of the Competition... ;) Ford Probe - Still born, almost nobody liked 'em except for some Americans who designed it... :? Fiat Coupe - most of 'em rusted away Alfa Coupe - still look OK, but damn, they're expensive to keep running Vauxhaull Calibra - Cavalier in disguise and they've all seemed to disappear BMW 3 series Coupe - Probably the closest rival to the Corrado, but really has an image problem due to the BMW badge! ;) :lol: I seriously reckon that out of the lot of 'em, the Corrado's probably the cheapest to keep going and was easily the best at the time and still is now... 8)

That'd be THIS thread of yours which I've just stickied then... ;) 8)

The grill was what gave away that it was an Oettinger to me... 8) Seen one before and recognised it when Dubwhizz asked me about it for his bro'.... 8)

If you can do a golf, you can do a Corrado... ;) 8) If you go de-locked, you'll need an alarm which interfaces to the central locking (which is standard on all UK Corrados) so that you can lock and unlock the car... It's useful to not de-lock the boot though, so you can still get in with a key if the central locking/battery ever packs up! ;) By all accounts it's pretty easy to do the Passat handle swap, but I've yet to get my ass in gear and get it done to mine... :oops: Oh, and Welcome to the Forum... 8)

It's a silver Oettinger 16V one... Dubwhizz's Brother was interested in it before he decided to go and get some silly Jap thing... :roll: It actually sounds quite good if you ignore the type "Oling" and read Oettinger instead! ;) 8) The steering wheel sure as hell ain't original though... :?

In other words you want BHP/£ figures... :roll:

looks like part of the alarm system to me as it has a "W.T. Licence exempt" stamp on it which tends to only be on things which use a radio transmitter or receiver in them... :?

brown particles tends to be rust from inside the water coolant system... nothing too major to worry about unless they are big chunks rather than just a few particles... 8)

cheers for clearing that up Migs, I'll amend my first post to correct myself... 8)

yeah, with you on that one Jim... J-DUB's done nearly 250K miles, just about every part has been dismantled by me (at least) and it's still got less rattles than my M plate 35Kmile Astra had! :? You gotta remember Dr_Mat that the headlamp switch was Corrado only, and I don't think £70 is bad for a genuine fog lamp... one for a Ford Escort isn't far off that price... It tends to be the parts that were Corrado only which are expensive 'cos you've gotta keep remembering that there were only around 9000 RHD versions made, so parts for them are that little bit more expensive... :?

yup... 8) Now that all 3 are supplying a version which doesn't need the vibration damper machining (the big block on the crank pulleys! ;) ) it's a simple bolt on modification.... 8) You simply replace the plastic idlers for the cam-belt tensioners which takes about 10mins... 8) I've just had a message from PSD after I've been asking about a fixed tensioner to replace my tired old sprung one and will post up what the outcome is... 8) One thing I would do though, is to replace all of the allen bolts with new ones (or even stainless steeel ones) so you don't end up rounding 'em off... ;) :D