Henny

As Phat says for the first one... 8) The disk locating screws are just to make life easier when fitting the wheel to the car... make sure that the new disks have the hole where the screw should be though, else you may find that the disks don't sit flush on the hub and so cause a vibration during braking... :?

nope, that's a straight wire from the switch to the solenoid actuator on the starter motor. The only thing that could be in that wire is an immobiliser you have had fitted to the car. Suppose it could also be a dodgy starter motor, but you've already said that you've replaced that, so it's much more unlikely... :?

8) 8) 8)

Still got that issue on my shelf... :)

Nice one J.... 8) I'll be getting a copy of that one tomorrow... :) (the mag, not you going to bed! ;) :lol: )

yeah, that's a nice balanced setup you've bought... I'll bet it does sound nice... 8) oh, and incidentally, both JBL and Infinity are part of the same company! ;) (Harman group)

try this: Turn on the lights so that the fogs come on like they shouldn't... now unplug one headlamp and see if that changes anything... If it doesn't, plug it back in and try the other lamp... This should tell you if it's a fault on a specific side, or a fault in general... If it's just one side, then I've got no idea what's causing it... If it's both, then it sounds very much like you have a damaged headlamp switch or (more likely) foglamp switch...

seized rear caliper?

I'm sure there's a comment to be made there.. ;) :lol:

nah, just back from being under my G60 again... :? Fitting new bits in preparation for tomorrow... :D It did turn out a little longer than I thought it would.... :roll:

well, in 5 years of working on VW beetles, I never had to cut a 1/2" hole to get at anything... I've seen people weld a wire onto a dent to pull it out and then grind the weld off and use a (very) thin skim of filler to smooth it properly, and I've seen people drill a 3mm hole and use a self tapping screw in it to give something to pull with a set of maul grips, and they both worked quite well in the situations they were in, but I'd want at least 3 independent people to tell me that the 1/2" hole is the best way to do it.... :?

got a toad on my MKI and it's never given me any hassle since it was installed in 94... although the car HAS been off the road since '99... :roll: (It does still work perfectly though! ;) ) I've got a sigma on my Corrado, and have had other sigma and Toad alarms and have never had a problem with any of 'em... 8)

If they've got a digital milage counter, they are interchangable... I've got early twin digital display dials with late needles in a late set of clocks at the moment (Don't ask, I just have! ;) ) The font of the text, and the needle design were the only things to change... even the part number on the actual moving coil is the same... (and that applies to G60, 2.0 AND VR6 (I know 'cos I've now got one of each set to test! ;) ) The UV secuity marker idea DOESN'T work... (I tried) you need such a high power UV lamp that it just floods the car with UV... :? Also, the cold cathodes may be TOO bright... the reason I used LEDs was 'cos you can still adjust the brightness with the brightness control on the headlamp switch... 8) That way you can vary it depending on what the conditions are/how much you give a damn how fast you are going! ;) :D :lol: UV sensitive paint is definately the way to go with the early needles... 8)

wish I'd have had that advice 12 months ago.... :? :roll: :lol:

it actually sounds like you've only got a dead DRIVERS side dipped bulb... I'll explain my thinking as you may now think I've lost the plot! ;) :D The Corrado has s a Dim-Dip set up on the headlamps which means that when you turn on the side lights with the ignition on, the dipped lights come on as well, although at around half brightness as well as the side light bulbs thanks to the HUGE reisistor (which has 2 yellow wires on it and is clipped onto the inner passenger side wing next to the battery ;) ). If your drivers side dipped beam bulb has gone, then you will have the appearance of the passenger side lamp being too bright as the drivers side one will be only on the sidelamp bulb, and not using the dim-dip function on the broken bulb... The main beam uses different elements in the main headlamp bulb, so that's not a problem and should only give you a fault if there is a short, or if there is a problem with the earth which is shared between dip and main beam per headlamp... There's a VERY quick and easy test to prove this... ;) With the key out of the ignition, turn on the indicators to the passenger side... if you look at your headlamps (and rears for that matter! ;) ) you'll notice that ONLY the passenger side lamps are lit... turn it the other way, only the drivers side light up... (these are your parking lights, and this is normal for a German/euro car so don't worry about that either! ;) ) If one of the front lights didn't light up (but the rear did) then the sidelamp bulb in that light is dead. If neither did, you have a dead fuse (or possibly indicator switch, but you'd have mentioned that! ;) ) If both front lights lit up, turn off the indicators, and with the ignition on, turn on your dipped lights... if one headlamp is brighter than the other, then the dipped bulb in that lamp has blown, and that's your only fault... 8) Hope this helps... 8) Oh, and in parts of Europe, it's illegal to have JUST your rear fog lamps on if your car has front fog lamps... this is why the switch turns on the fronts with the rears on the later cars, and why you have to turn on the fronts first on the earlier switch... 8) *edit* Bugger, dr_mat beat me to it... :?

They look sharp and nice... 8) The guy has a great reputation within the trade which is how I got to know about him... I saw a set of Jag x-spokes (similar to BBSs) that he did 4 years ago, and they still look mint... 8)

That's definately either the blue temp sensor or, more likely, a vacuum leak/damaged pipe between the ECU and the throttle body. This pipe MUST be 100cm long, else the car will run as you describe... ;)

I got mine done at Top Marques over in Stoke... £45 per wheel and a top notch job with a guarantee too... 8)

The only way the crank pulley can move is if the bolt is loose (or has been loose) and has damaged the woodruff key which is built into the pulley or the slot in the crank... If you've checked this is tight (and you said you have) then I'd ignore that for now as it's unlikely to be this if it just suddenly went, these tend to wear over time (if the bolt is loose) and vary the timing rather than just suddenly change and stay changed... check the tension of the cam belt... it's more likely it's jumped a tooth... It's pretty easy to check just using the timing marks on the cam gear and on the flywheel and should show you if it's jumped a tooth or not quickly and simply... 8)

The Corrado's wiring is simply connected together at the tweeter where it comes from the head unit and then goes on to the door speaker... to wire in the cross over, all you do is cut this connection, and connect in the crossover... easy peasy... 8) I've stuck some sticky backed velcro on the cross over, and placed it into the hole under the speaker... keeps it well outta the way, and stops it rattling around... 8) depending on which component kit you get, you may well get some nice mounts for the tweeters anyway, so you can use these to put the tweeters onto the dash instead of under the grill which means that it becomes much more of a plug-and-play task... 8) The door speaker IS just straight plug and play though... 8)

the JBL 5.25" components I bought for my C have now been fitted into both standard (early) and aftermarket door pockets with no modifications or problems... 8) I did mod the front dash grills though, as mentioned before... ;)

either hack the old tweeter to bits, and fit the new one into the plastic disk, or do what I did, and cut a hole in the grill and mount 'em in there... it's actually very neat if you take your time, and you can then angle them wherever you like... 8) If you have a grey dash, and go with either the JBL or infinity components, and want some grills with holes in, lemme know, and you can have mine 'cos my new leather came with some custom audio pods which have a mount for the tweeter... Just means that you won't have to hack your own grilles up... ;) 8)

how much were they? I could do with a couple myself! :roll: :lol:

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