Henny

have a word with C&R enterprises... I got my 16V flywheel for my MKI 16V from them when I was at Uni for a good price... 8)

yup, have a look at the throttle body and you'll see a switch on there... have a look at a MKI golf GTI and there isn't one... There's not an awful lot of difference between K adn KE jetronic except for a couple of switches and a better idle stabilisation system on the KE... 8) I don't think it's the same as the Corrado is a bigger car, the engine bay is a different shape and I know that the Corrado downpipe is different from a Golfs... :?

Yup, I'd recommend them too... My head was rebuilt/flowed there (both times... :roll: ) and my engine block/balancing work was done there as commissioned by John Mitchell (16VG60) 8)

yup... KE-Jetronic was fitted to all KR engined VWs (1.8 16V) It's the Bosch name for the mechanical injection systems fitted to VW (and quite a few other makes of) cars. MKI Golf GTIs used straight K-jetronic injection (also known as CIS - Constant injection system) and this was later upgraded to include some electronics and sensors/switches on the later cars such as the KR engined VWs - Hence K E-Jetronic... 8) The "Jetronic" part of the name's a bit of a con really... it makes you think it's an electronic injection system, when in reality, it's a mechanical system... :roll: :lol: Either way, it's still a bloody good system even today 'cos it's so damned simple there's not a lot can go wrong with it as long as you look after the fuel filters... 8)

have you checked your engine mounts? Worth a look... when they die, they can make the car jumpy at low speeds such as when you're stuck in traffic... That's how I knew it was time to do mine! ;)

Part number for the (RHD) twin round gauge plate is: 536 858 201 You'll also need 2 screws, 2 screw covers and the gauges and senders that you wish to fit into the panel... 8)

Do you have to cut the boot lid to fit that light, or does it just bolt onto the existing skin? It looks well smart... and the wheels are great... 8)

Ah, in that case, yup, you need a new lock mech... :? If I were you, I'd also change the switch while you're in there as it's only another £20 and will almost certainly start to play up at some point soon! :roll: Stevemac has just changed the lock and housing on his 'rado... there's a thread containing all of the part numbers required HERE 8) and I'm sure if you PM him, he'll be able to tell you how to change it over... 8)

YAY! good to hear that you've now got that part sorted out... 8) Mine was replaced when I first had the supercharger rebuilt, so I've never had to get at it before... :lol: :-P They're nuts on studs... you should be able to remove the manifold to downpipe connection with a bit of swearing with the engine in the car... it then depends on your luck as to whether you can then get the bolts out and then the manifold off the head. It's not easy to then remove the downpipe with teh engine in the car, but it is (apparently) do-able... I've replaced my downpipe with a stainless steel one while the engine's in bits just so I never have to touch it again ;) Some people I've spoken to reckon that it's easier to get the exhaust manifold off if you remove the inlet manifold first... for the extra couple of gaskets that it'll cost you, I can see where they are coming from... 8) Good luck! 8)

wish I could have driven my corrado for the last 7 months... :( :cry:

you'll also need to get part of the mechanism repaired as it's this that causes the panel to rub along the inner roof supports and scratch the paint off... :roll: The only way to get the panel out is to remove the complete sunroof mechanism.... Have a look here for instructions on how to fit a moonroof (tells you how to get the old roof out, and fitting it back again is exactly the same as fitting a moon roof... ;) ) Check HERE for details on fixing the broken mechanism... 8)

Well... I was always told 1992 to 1994 (which were the ones without a proper grille on the front of 'em) were the ones to use... However, mine came out of an L plate (1995) one which was the later version of the passat with a grille... I didn't realise until I'd paid for it and was on my way out, and I spotted the bootlid with the number plate on it... (it had been front ended, and was already partially stripped!) Anyway, it fits like a treat, with no washers needed and it was just a straight bolt in swap... 8) If you're unsure, have a good look at yours first, measure the roof panel (INCLUDING THE SEAL!) and then compare it with any that you think may well fit.... The mechanism looks identical, except for the stupid little arms that kept snapping off on mine... :evil: Things to watch out for while doing the swap include: Mind your fingers while trying to remove the coat hooks... the plastic outer pulls up and off the metal inner to reveal the screw, and it's sharp in there! :| The clips on the trim over the rear window are known to break, so be careful with it (I've not broken any yet...) Take the motor off the sunroof before you start to unbolt the roof... it's suprisingly heavy and unbalances it when you try to lift it out of the car... :roll: Undo all of the bolts that hold the roof in starting at the back of the car working forwards... The back is supported so it won't drop and twist the mechanism... support the front on your head, and undo the final 2 bolts and then you should be able to swing it out through the door on your own... 8) And, Be EXTRA EXTRA careful when removing the roof lining... It is VERY flimsy, and if you aren't careful it will break where the hole for the sunroof is in it leaving you with either a rip or a nasty crease that you won't be able to get out... :| I'm lucky that I only did this on a scrap car that I was taking the roof out of, so I knew to be careful with mine! ;) :mrgreen: I did my swap in a little under 1.5 hours today... but I've not yet put the roof lining back in 'cos I need to clean it and I also need to fit a new bee-sting and some other goodies that will require me to get some wiring up above the roof lining... ;) Hope this helps, and good luck!

I could swear I've seen that car around Manchster before... Definate late 80s styling there... Kinda retro cool almost... ;) 8) Sounds like a bargain for £150 :D Keep your eyes open for some nutter in a pink/red Golf driver waving at you around Manchester... It'll be me! ;) 8)

yup... According to the tube I've got in my hand at the moment it's an "Excellent adherent weathering resistant Hybrid Sealant" :? Basically, think of black silicone sealant on steroids, and you've got the basic idea! ;) 8) You won't need to use a lot of it (one blob in each top corner, and maybe one in the middle...) Tape it in place tightly until the sikaflex has set, and it'll never fall off, come loose or rattle again.... 8)

A-ha! that's good to know.... you may have just saved me a couple of quid there... Thanks... 8)

Woah... I need to get one of these kits.... 8) Mine's still looking quite shiney 'cos it blew up 2 days after Tatton park last year, so it's not really been anywhere to get dirty... but it still doesn't shine like that.. :|

sikaflex will hold this part on when the plastic mounts break off... it's available from most car body places (and I think even Halfords stock it!) 8) New ones are available from VAG dealers only, second hand ones will almost certainly be broken, or will break as soon as you fit 'em... IIRC they're about £30 from VAG... 8)

I'm about to fit a new bee sting to my Corrado... As far as I know, only VW sell the correct one if you need the base as well, because it's at a slightly different angle from the ones on the golfs and the aftermarket ones... :roll: If they've only damaged the mast part of it, you can pick up aftermarket ones from Euro car parts and GSF to name just 2... They're only a few quid too... 8) If they've managed to get the bottom bit off as well, they really must have tried, and may well have knackered your roof in quite a bad way as there is a sodding HUGE nut under the aerial that needs undoing to remove the base part of the aerial... :|

depends which bit of it is rotten... If you look at the photo, the bit at the back holds the radiator up, and the pipe across the front is for the power steering (acts as a basic radiator to cool the powersteering fluid). The pipe isn't part of this unit so you should be able to unbolt your old one and bolt it onto your replacement... The front (rusty on my photo!) bit is basically just re-enforcing for the front bumper and lower spoiler, but also acts as a crude shield for the radiator to stop things flicking up and damaging it... I'm actually gonna cut that whole rusty bit off mine so that I can make up a mount for my new intercooler which will sit just infront of the radiator... 8) £400 is probably for a new one... it's about an hour, maybe two's work to remove the old one and fit a new one... it's not a particularly difficult job, just one you don't want to get wrong else you'll end up with an engine on your head! :|

nope, plug and play as the instructions say... :) Suprised me how easy it actually was... Follow those instructions and you'll be laughing... 8) Use your original motor though, so that you know it's the correct connections for your car's wiring loom... ;)

I'm guessing that this is the part that always rots on Corrados... Mine was rusty too, but I'm fitting an RS style bumper, so it doesn't matter to me... ;) I know that Awesome GTI did have one in their spares lock up a couple of months ago, so it may be worth having a word with them about getting hold of one... I've added a couple of pics to see if we're talking about the same bit.... if we are, then post back, and I'll post up a how to on removing it... 8)

sounds like your cable has come adrift or snapped off completely... :| If you watch the side that still works, you should be able to see a part moving along a track... find this part on the broken side and, with a long thin screwdriver, move it along as you slowly close the roof... it should come down almost all the way down, but it won't lock down due to the cable not activating the locking part of the mechanism... I'd advise putting some gaffa tape over the seal until you can get it sorted out once you've got it pretty much down as far as you can... 8) You can get at it a whole lot better if you are willing to strip out the headlining, but as a temp fix, this works well enough to keep the cars interior dry... 8) I fitted my moon roof today (only took about 2 hours to take the old one out and put the new one in) so I know exactly the pain in the ass that you're suffering from at the moment... :roll: :wink: Hope you get it sorted... 8)

Either that or the speed sensor that it's attached to on the gearbox has failed/is failing... That'd screw up the signals to the auto box's control unit and mean it has no idea of when to change gear... :?

Nope, as long as you don't go any faster than you used to, there's no extra fuel used... The only things it does are to allow more air in towards full throttle, and make the lower throttle more responsive as you don't have to wait for the second butterfly valve to open... It's a pretty much linear throttle response that you get after fitting the Weber body rather than having a kink in it where the second valve comes into effect... 8)

That'd make sense... I'd bet they're Hella items or someone similar... 8)