Henny

depends on where you go.... ;) Most places will do a nice Cat1 alarm system for around £300 to £350 and will remove the old one at the same time... or you could just go for a cat2 immobiliser and a cheaper alarm for around the £150 - £2500 mark.... 8) Personally, I'd go cat 1, again, just for peace of mind... 8)

I'd go with a new system... that way you KNOW it's gonna be OK, and if it start playing silly sods, you can take it back and have a go at the fitters... 8) I always have the alarm ripped out of any car I buy and a new one installed just for my peace of mind... 8)

5s not a bad number of former owners... that's about 2 years each on a normal 'rado... A lot of 'em were company cars when first bought, so they changed owners after about a year which adds one on pretty quickly... Think I'm the 6th owner of my '92 G60... 8)

Have a word with John Mitchell (16VG60 on here)... He does a hi-flow stainless steel downpipe (made by Milltek) and will port/polish/gasflow your existing manifold and match it to your new downpipe... :D That's what's going on my G60 in the next couple of days... 8) apparently it makes quite a nice difference... ;)

Well, while the head is off, why not go whole hogg and do the inlet and exhaust manifolds as well as the throttle body... ;) I've had the lot done on mine, but they're sat on my garage floor at the moment so I can't say how much better they'll be yet! :roll: :oops:

That's what the standard VW figures give... :roll:

Some excellent photos there... I like your photography style... 8)

Let the building work commence! 8) I've got some holiday at the moment, and I'm making good use of it... ;) Got my gearbox back from stealth yesterday and painted the final bits of the engine today as well as picking up my full new lock set and the final engine hoses from VAG... 8) I should also get my re-furbished wheels back tomorrow too... 8)

if your lambda sensor is already dead, then you'll notice no difference when you disconnect the wiring to it... If the car then runs even worse than before, then you know that the lambda's probably OK... 8) Dunno how much new Lambdas are in Dollars, but over here they're between £50 and £125....

David, it seems I owe you an appology... For all these years I've been playing with 16V KR engines, it seems that I've been wrong in what I though the injection system type was... :| :oops: You are absolutely correct that the 1.8 16V KR engine IS just straight K-jetronic, and that the 2.0 16V is KE (although it was known as KE Motronic, not KE-Jetronic...) 8) The main difference on the KR engines from the early Golfs is the idle stabiliation systems... the KR used an ISV, the MKI GTI just used an auxillary air regulator... I stand corrected, and slightly more educated... 8) :thumbleft: :notworthy: Sorry to anyone who has been confused by my incorrect info, and thanks David for giving the correct info... 8)

Very nice... 8)

IMHO, This could be one of 2 common G60 problems... Either your Lambda is dead (hence always rich) or you have a vacuum leak somewhere. I'm not sure how you check a lambda sensor, but your A/F gauge should move about at least a little bit when you first start the car or are at idle... If it never moves, then I'd suggest changing your Lambda probe... :? Check the vacuum hose on the back of the throttle body that runs to the ECU. This needs to be EXACTLY 1meter (39 inches) long else the car will run like a dog as you describe above. Also check that there's no leaks or splits in any of the other vacuum hoses as this would also cause similar problems... Hope this helps... 8) Oh, and Welcome to the Forum 8)

There's some amount of $#!te talked in that whole review IMHO.... since when did 3029cc = 3.1 Litres?!? That's 3.03 litres at the nearest... :roll: And supposedly 250bhp from 3.03 with a 2.9 giving only174?!? WTF??? :roll:did these people not know how to add up or something?!? :evil: I'm glad that these muppets fell off the tuning world and won't be messing up any more cars or calculations for the rest of us... all opinions stated above are mine, and mine only... of course, anyone else is free to share them..... ;)

Nay problems.... Someone in the last 230K miles of my car's history has had that same problem and come up with the insulation tape method of curing it... 8)

insulation tape... 8) just need to re-do it once a year when it tears... :roll: You could try heat shrinking it... :?

Favourite pic of my car as it was before I went a bit mental on the modifying is the one I use as my avatar... 8) Or possibly this one... 8)

First gear is the same ratio in all of the corrado boxes as far as I know... Second is a lot longer in the VR6 box, hence why I've used one in my rebuild... 8)

The rear CORRADO badge font isn't in there though... :roll:

At least, not in the public domain... I'd bet it's on a PC in Wolfsburg somewhere though... ;)

nah, I've always used a ring spanner and an allen key... 8) You may have to search around some tool shops for a ring spanner which has got enough of a kink in it to fit in though... My set fitted anyway, so I was lucky... 8)

yup... Porsche gets my vote too... 8) The RX8 is a stunning looking thing (in a kinda odd way! ;) ) but I think that it's just slightly too underpowered... maybe get one and have someone tweak it? ;)

buy a new cap... they're not expensive and will answer your question once and for all! ;) when they leak pressure, you won't see any steam unless you get the engine REALLY hot as they only loose a little bit of pressure (steam) all the time you run your engine so you won't get clouds of it coming out.... :|

You're best off PM'ing John (16Vg60) for prices...

IMHO, PhatVR6 has hit the nail on the head here... 8) There's no point in doing anything to a gearbox unless you work out why you want to do it, what you want the box to enable your car to do, and what power and torque curve your car engine is generating first... :roll: I've gone with an LSD (essential to try and limit wheel spin with a modded engine!) and a VR6 second ratio (good for about 65mph) as I always felt that the only problem with the G60s standard ratios was that second was too short. This has been coupled with a good rebuild to ensure that the rest of the box is upto the power I'm aiming to put through it... 8) However, I decided on these ratios only after a brief chat with PhatVR6 and a long conversation with Vince at Stealth who both asked me what it was I wanted to achieve... 8) I do a fair amount of motorway miles, but mainly in traffic (flippin' rush hours... :evil: ) and I love to take my car up and around the Buxton hills and similar at weekends for a blast hence the longer second gear... 8) In My MKI 16V Golf, I fitted a 1600 gearbox which had stupidly short ratios for the power of the engine... It meant that off the line it was stupidly fast, but cruising on the motorway you'd run out of gearbox before you ran out of power... I've got a great photo somewhere of the dashboard with BOTH the original speedo and rev counter well off the end of the dials! :lol: What it also meant was that I rarely used first gear as by the time you'd let the clutch up, you needed second! :| :roll: You could also pull of in 5th with no problems what-so-ever... 8) The main reason I fitted such a silly box was 'cos that's what I got with the car and 'cos I realised that it would make it silly quick 0-60 which is what I wanted as a young lad... 8) I've grown up a bit since then (some would dis-agree though! ;) ) so I've aproached this project from a different angle... 8) Hope this helps... 8)

a quick tip I've shamelessly nicked from Kev ( ;) )is to put some sticky backed felt onto the roof strengthening bars when you get the roof out so that if the worst ever happens again, it won't scratch the roof as badly... 8)