Henny

Sheesh... I nearly had a heart attack until I read the second post... :roll: :lol: Can you imagine what you could do to a G60 with £15K! 8)

I just got a quote from HIC for my G60 with all the mods declared and an agreed value of around 9K... unlimited milage... just under £800! 8)

Nope, they are interchangable... 8) A leather interior will fit straight into yours, and yours will fit straight into a VR6... ;)

You need a spacer/ adaptor to fit these... Porsche wheels are a different stud pattern.

yeah, I seem to remember having to do that when I skimmed my 16V's head... Cutting compound can be bought from most car parts places, and you'll also need a valve lapping tool to do the job.... Basically it's a stick with 2 rubber suction pads on it (one each end) so that you can stick it onto the face of the valve and spin the valve in the seat with the cutting compound... 8) I'm pretty certain that you can just buy valve seals on their own, and that they're not expensive either... 8) Try VAG, GSF or Euro... 8) Good luck!

Andi, PM sent about the sunroof! ;)

yeah, dodgy CV joints can be a royal pain in the ass when they do their intermittently clonking thing... :roll: Could also be topmounts, but I'd assume that they've been done with the list you put in your first post... :? Oh, and I agree with the colour thing! ;) | \/

Also try https://www.midlandwheelsshop.com/ for reasonable wheels at reasonable prices.... 8) These guys do a lot of the shows too, and often will take stuff to a show for you to pick up instead of posting... 8)

If you've had a head gasket go, then for the extra few quid, get a new belt on while it's in bits... :| IMHO, it's one of those cheap parts that's not worth risking things on... :wink:

It sounds to me like your hall sender in the distributor is breaking down as it gets hot. :? These are known to fail with age and the heat as the engine warms up causes them to act up causing the problems you describe. Welcome to the forum... 8)

it's basically the same as the one that Kev made... just with a fancy front sticker on it and a 500% price increase! :? Looks nice and neat though... 8) shame I've got no dash blank spaces left to use :roll:

Nope, all the 16V 1.8s and G60s had the armrest in the back... It was only the later 2.0 8v and 16Vs that had the bench seat and then only in some of them... :? :roll:

No, you need to wire it to an earth (IIRC) The handbrake switch works the same as a door switch and makes contact with the car's chassis when you lift the handle. 8) My Clarion's wired in with that wire connected to one of the RCA's earths, and it works all the time... 8)

I had a look at my bumper last night (i just forgot to post up what I found :oops: ) The bumper brackets that go into the chassis legs (that have the 2 captive nuts on 'em that have sheared off on your car) are angled so that they are not as tall at the back as they are closest to the bumper. This means that you may well be able to grind the rear heads off and lift them out. The fronts though, may be a bit more tricky to do... I did notice that the bumper hangers (the bits that go into the chassis legs) are bolted to the back of the bumper's ironwork, so you may well be able to unbolt them from the back of the damaged bumper to get more access. There's 3x 13mm headed bolts on each hanger. If you can get the hangers off the ironwork, you may well be able to get in at the captive nuts with a spanner, or molegrips to stop it turning while you undo the front bolts, and then take the heads off the rear bolts and lift the hangers out one at a time... 8) Have a close look to see if you can get at the hanger's bolts behind the bumper and see what you think... 8) Good luck!

http://www.venommotorsport.com/index/index.html They do a rather nice PLASTIC RS4 bumper now that's pretty easy to fit and is rather well made... 8) Guess what's gonna be on my car soon! ;) Sorry to hear about your accident... :?

Strange... I've had the needles off on both of the sets of clocks I've got numerous times and have never had a problem getting 'em off (bit of force needed, but...) or putting 'em back on again... :? Are the needles on your clocks Red, or white? Both of my clock sets had white needles... there may be a difference in the way the red ones fit, and it'd be really useful to know this BEFORE I try to dismantle the set I've just bought with red needles... 8)

Yup, that's what I've been told... But I'll confirm this with photos once the dial's I'm getting arrive in the post... 8)

sounds good, but make sure they also change the cam belt and cam belt tensioner while it's all apart... Should only cost you a couple more quid (£30 tops!) and will give you the peace of mind that all is well with that for the next 50K or so... 8)

:roll: :lol: Glad that you've sorted it out now... 8)

Cool, if you're sure the loom is OK, I'd say you've either got a low water level, a dodgy water level sensor, or a dead gauge... :) Check your water level (when cold!) then take the multi plug off the expansion tank and see what that does to the light... :)

edd, that sounds like a dodgy clutch release bearing to me...

The light on the dash has nothing to do with the ECU at all. 8) The odds are that there's another damaged wire in the bundle that was rubbing on the heat shield which is causing your problem. Do the oil temp (in the MFA) and the water temp gauges work properly and give reasonable readings? It's also possible that the water level sensor in the expansion tank has become faulty, or your water level is slightly low, as both of these would also put this light on. :? Good luck! 8)

that's a bit fecking mental! :shock:

I've got my bumper off at home at the moment... I'll have a look at it tonight to see if I can work out a way of soving this when I get home tonight... 8)

ETKA's got a list of ratios and final drives.... Want me to ask Vince as I'm about to talk to him about my box? 8)