Henny

Right, well, after going to Dubfreeze this morning, I got my ass in gear this afternoon and completed putting my interior back into one piece! 8) I can safely say that the Basslink ROCKS! 8) I've got standard fit 6x4 JBLs in the rear and standard fit JBL components up front, and there is MORE than enough bass if you crank it up, and enough volume to drown out any noise outside... 8) I've got the head unit powering the speakers with the Basslink's active amp being fed by both sets of RCAs off the head unit (FL,FR, RL, RR)... The really nice thing about this unit is that it's got high level inputs too, so you can plug it in as a speaker if your head unit hasn't got RCA outputs... 8) It's definately on a par with the 12" boxed sub I used to have in the boot powered off a 4x400W amp... 8) My remote bass controler lives in the center console cubby hole now, just below my 3 gauges... 8)

Pass... It's a bit dark out there at the moment so I can't see it... :roll: Sorry... I'll have a look in the morning before I go to work though... 8)

'cos they're squeeking now which means that the bearings/bushes are already worn... The grease that you put in will just act as packing around the bearing/bush making the fan's shaft spin properly with no vibrations... Problem is that as soon as the grease starts to thin out, (which it will do as soon as it gets warm) you'll get vibrations in the shaft which will make the squeeking noise and make the fan motor inefficient again... 8) The only time that grease would have helped is just BEFORE the bearing started to squeek... unfortunately that's when you think that everything's fine with it... :| :roll: I tried the packing with grease method on my old MKII Gti, and it lasted all of about 6 hours of use before the squeeking was back again... A quick trip to a local breakers yard and £4 later, the fan was working again until after I sold the car... 8)

short, simple and to the point there Dazzy... 8) :lol: All corrado handles are interchangable between years... (not sides though! ;) :roll: ) Later ones had a lip around the key barrel, but this is just a cosmetic change. :D

I'm interested in this one too, 'cos my car's been clocked and it'd be nice to show the real milage now that I know what it is... :)

Think it may have been an option though 'cos my old H plate (1990) 16V had them.... Scared the hell outta me when I first realised, I thought that I'd broken the motor turning it on and off too much! :oops: :lol:

Twin ones are MKIII golf ones that are available from Euro car parts for £19.99 8) I've got a set in my garage waiting for my car to have a complete front end again so I can attach 'em... ;)

Mine's now been dis-connected for about 6 months due to lack of engine ( :lol: ) but there is no reason at all that you shouldn't leave the battery off for as long as you like... The only thing that will happen is on a VR6, your ECU will reset, so you'll loose any error codes that were stored in it... (like that's a problem :roll: )

new fan time... the bearings in the fan motors die, and play an annoying tune as their final swansong... :roll: Fortunately they're not mega bucks 'cos they're the same as the MKII Golf... 8) (about £55) They're also pretty easy to change (about 30 mins if you've not done one before, 20 if you have ;) ) There's a description HERE on how to do it... 8)

yup, spot on Scruffy.... 8) Also the later ___----___ bonnets are a fair bit heavier than their earlier counterparts, so the single lifter will struggle even if you can find somewhere to mount it... :|

Moi? :wink: 8) :lol:

The housing is the same as a MKII golf one, so you should be able to get one from a scrap yard well cheap! ;) (just in case you can't be doing with all the JB weld mess! :lol: ) 8)

Cool, welcome to the forum... 8) Hope you find a cure to your fault nice and quickly... :D

you mean one of the INXX lifters? The only fit the EARLY ----___---- bonnets (guess how I found out... :roll: ) The instructions that come with them are in German, and translate (badly :oops: ) as: 1) Openly it the hood of your vehicle 2) fasten as the first hoodlift with the side of the ball joint to the front lock carrier. In the this carrier a drilling is already present ex factory 3) Put the screw at the ball joint with the wearing part by the drilling. Fasten the screw with a wearing part and the provided nut/mother. Use for the attachment the thin spanner 13mm. 4) Fasten now the along-supplied black flat steel bar to aluminum framework hoodlift with the thin spanner of the SW10 5) If the black framework is screwed on, you can fix the two holes which can be bored 6) The top of the black framework must with the sicke of the hood reinforcement aligning. The lower range lies inside sheet metal of the hood. 7) In this situation they must carefully the 2 holes 6,5mm bore. Note: Are themselves they a case over the drill, so that they do not press the drill too deeply into the outer skin of the sheet metal. 8) now they need the provided screws and nuts/mothers for the attachment of the Hoodlift at the hood. 9) As the latter you can build the original hood bar from the front lock carrier. Warning: please you pay attention to a correct assembly. Can autodamage will only in such a way avoid.

VW... If the originals last the best part of 10 years, I'd happily pay a little extra VAG tax to know that they're good quality OE parts... ;) :lol:

Red tops are injectors with a higher flow rate than the standard injector. They're called red tops for the simple reason that the tops are red... ;) Standard Corrado G60 injectors are green. How small is your new pulley, and do you know if the ECU chip was changed at the same time?

Do I know you?!? ;) :oops: :lol:

My G60 has the connectors for wear indicators, but I've never put indicator pads in 'cos they're not as thick as normal pads and I can see when my pads need changing ;)

I just fitted mine loosely today to check that the unit works, and I can testify that these things ROCK! 8) The bass seems to be really tight, punchy and accurate with no hint of distortion no matter what I threw at it... I'm well happy anyway! 8) I also got the remote level control with mine (yeah, as well as the free wiring kit! :roll: :lol: ) but I've used the wiring that I put in for my old 1K amp so I didn't need to do much wiring anyway... The main thing I've had to do is rip out lots of old wiring (including my nice silver speaker cable :( ) to install my new TV system properly... 8) Just a quick question though, have you guys mounted yours upright, or as Jim's is in his car? I wanna save as much space in my boot as possible (other things going in there yet! ;) ) so I want it upright, but I'm not sure if it'll stay putt with just velcro if it's that way up... :?

I'll jump on this bandwagon and say that sending your charger to Darren is THE thing to do! ;) I got mine back, and other than the old Jabba inscriptions all over it :roll: I wouldn't have known it was the same charger... Lovely... 8) Even just turning it by hand now, it feels right... much better than the Jabba rebuild it had

Welcome to the forum... For that kinda cash you'll get a really nice G60... 8)

woah... white and clear basslink! :shock: I thought they were all black like this one that I'm just about to fit... :wink:

:scatter: 8)

you called?!? ;) You're not quite right there with the BHP description Steve, close, but not quite... 8) BHP = (torque x rpm) / 5750 Therefore at 5750rpm, Torque = BHP... Manufacturers sometimes try and get the max torque as high up the rev range as possible, preferably OVER 5750 (Type R for example max torque at around 8K rpm! :| ) as you then get a much higher BHP reading for the same level of torque production... IMHO, What people should really be comparing is their torque curves and peak torque level and it's location in the rev-range... :mrgreen: It's that which shows a good engine from a wannabe. ;) 8)

both at once is either the fuse (on a seperate block above the main fuse box) or the control box (inside the RHD rear card) Check the fuse, if it's not that then things start to get expensive/awkward to find/fix... :|