Henny

G60 stage 4, alloys, custom exhaust, coilovers, flowed head... Fully comp, agreed value, track cover, non limited milage (I do 22K per year!) upto 5weeks foreign F/C insurance and full glass cover. I've got full protected no claims but with an total (£6K! :oops: ) loss just under 4 years ago. I'm a 27 year old engineer living in SE cheshire with a garage.... £750 (ish, can't remember exact figure!) with HIC With all of my new bits and bobs (1940cc, lightened, balanced, fully flowed, redtops, different pully, TV system, RS bumper etc etc etc) it's looking like it's gonna be just under £1000 F/C... Not too bad I suppose for around 250BHP... :?

Cheers! It'd be nice to be able to do a new mod of my own, but you seem to get the jump on everyone with these little mods you keep coming up with! :wink: :lol: Yeah, blowtorch and hammer time! :wink: I think it only needs a couple of degrees bend in it to get it to sit absolutely parallel with the window rubber... 8) How did you do yours? I cut off the back of the lower bit of the original arm where it crimps onto the shaft with a dremmel, then cut the new shaft to the right length and JB Weld-ed the new shaft to the old mounting part... It's lovely and neat from the outside, and once I've bent it and re-painted the lot, it'll be difficult to tell it's ever been modded... :D

Looks like it... :roll: At least mine'll be different 'cos I've modded it! :wink: :lol:

They sit between the wheel and the central locating part of the hub to ensure that the alloy wheels are fitted dead center on the hub. If you have aftermarket wheels, you may need them as the center hole may not be the same diameter as the original wheel... The wheel bolts will make sure that the wheel stays reasonably centered, but on a 130+mph car, you really want to make sure that they are DEAD center, hence the need for the rings... 8)

Erm, that's the link in the first post, Darren... :roll: :wink: :lol:

Hiya, bigben, if you do a search for "99.9" you'll find a load of posts here about this problem. It's normally a vacuum hose having either split, come off, or become porus in the engine bay or on the back of the clocks themselves... The average speed thing sounds about right to me... Next time you go out on a run, reset the MFA when you're doing 70ish and see if it stays about 70mph on the average speed... If it drops a lot while you're still at 70, then there's a problem. If you are starting it at the start of the 30 mile trip, unless you can hit 80 in 0 seconds, and stay there until you stop (with no time to slow down!) your average speed will always be MUCH lower that you'd think... I'd bet that your 30 mile trip took about 45mins to complete, from engine start to engine off, so 40mph average is spot on! 8) Remember, acceleration and deceleration times, time at junctions and lights, time before setting off while the engine is running, time checking the MFA at the end of the journey are all added into the average speed....

demon tweeks = http://WWW.Demon-tweeks.co.uk 8) Most alloy wheel suppliers will be able to get these for you and they're normally pretty cheap too! 8) *edit* Hi Darren, you beat me to it! :roll:

OK, I think that this is a fantastic mod, and as I said I would, I've done the same! 8) Cheers for the inspiration, Kev... 8) I think mine needs a slight tweak (with a large hammer! :wink: ) to get it to sit exactly how I want, but I'm well happy with it so far! :)

Actually, 95% nitro, 2% methanol, 3% castor oil! :shock: It also makes amazing BBQ lighter fluid! :wink: :lol: Pour 0.5L on to the charcoal, leave for 30 seconds to soak into the coals, light a match and throw it in from as far away as possible... Wait for 5 minutes and it's ready to cook on.... 30 mins later, there's nothing left! 8) :lol: It's funny that my friends don't let me light the BBQs anymore... :oops: Anywho, Cai? Did you get the thing built and running in the end?

If you've got a standard wheel on, the horn push just pulls straight off... Be careful though, 'cos there's a wire attached to it and you don't want to break it! Then there's a 24mm nut which you can get off with a normal socket with a smallish extension bar on a reasonable sized ratchet. Make sure that your road wheels are dead straight before you take the wheel off! The splines on the shaft are quite fine, so it's pretty easy to adjust it if it's a little bit off center by removing it and turning it slightly.... 8) Whatever you do, don't be tempted to use the steering lock to push against while undoing or tightening the nut as you will damage it...

Well, flippin' heck.. I knew my theory of a half blown bulb was a long shot, but I didn't expect it to prove correct! 8) The reason that your brake lights were coming on was 'cos that bulb had blown and then shorted itself against the other fliament creating that odd connection... This was allowing a path to earth through the other filament causing the brake lights to come on along with the sidelights... :? Glad you got it sorted anyway... 8) I've no idea what the clicking noise is though, It's so long since I drove my 'rado I couldn't tell you if they're supposed to do that or not... :cry:

I'd love to, but it'll cost me about £200 to fix it and more time than I've got available... :? Watch out for it in the summer though, I'll be there with the Burns and we'll have a bit of a giggle! :wink: 8)

Woah, I thought that my 1/8 scale Kyosho Turbo Burns (turbo by name only!) was big! 3.5CC, 2.5BHP idle at 7000rpm redline at 22,500rpm! :shock: 0-60 was around 2.5 seconds with a top end of about 75mph... you could do zero to flat out and back down again in the distance between 3 lamposts! :D Carbon fibre disk brake, 4wd, 3 diffs (one LSD!) one gear (no reverse!), double wishbone suspension with height adjustable coilovers all around... Oh, and it's an off roader, so it'll do most of that across a rough field with little or no problems! 8) I really need to put a new engine in it and get it running again... Guess where my habit of blowing car engines up started! :roll: :wink: :lol: I don't think it liked the 95%nitromethane mix fuel I was running it on too much! :twisted:

It's easy to check for a twin filament bulb, as you say, you should be able to see 2 actual filaments inside the bulb, but the dead giveaway is that the bottom of the bulb will have 2 distinct contact areas which are offset rather than one central round connection. The standards for the bulbs which were designed to prevent said muppetry don't actually work that well... :roll: It's pretty easy (I've NOT done this, but have seen it done lots!) for a muppet to put the bulb in the wrong way around, or to cram a single bulb into a double socket... :roll: The other thing that springs to my mind is that you may well have just been unlucky in how your bulb has blown... :? If a twin filament bulb blows, only one filament tends to go at once... If this broken fillament has moved about and touched the other filament causing an internal short in your bulb which would cause this kind of "interesting problem..." bear it in mind before you start having to spend any money, it's one hell of a longshot, but as this would only cost you the price of a couple of bulbs to replace the old side/brake ones it may be worth thinking about... 8) I can't see how it could possibly be the brake light switch... It has no contact with the other lights... The brake lights do share an earth with the other lights though, so it could be this that's the fault too.... :? I'd check and replace both rear/brake bulbs and see what happens... If it's still the same, it's a wiring fault... time to dig out the multimeter... :roll:

yeah, they're available from the dealers still... I broke mine the first time I sat in my passenger seat... Something to do with size 14 feet I think... :wink: :lol:

All I can say is, Thank God for my GCSE German... Now there's a sentance I wouldn't have believed I'd ever say when I was learning it at school! :wink: :roll: :lol:

pass... Sorry... :roll: Ask John (16Vg60) seeing as he's got a 16V G60, he's probably the best person to talk to! 8)

Right, I got my backside into gear and took some photos of the bumper to let you lot know what you get for your money... 8) Firstly, let me point out that this is the RS4 style bumper and as such may be different to the RS2 one that I ordered due to the side vents being where the original mounts should go... I've actually got this RS4 one due to a joint foul up in communications, :roll: so I'm going to remove the side vents, plastic weld up the holes and then plastic weld the original hangers (which I've cut out of my original bumper) into this new skin. This should then allow the bumper to be fitted exactly the same way as the original one with the ironwork and "cotton reels"... 8) The kit consists of the ABS bumper skin(duh!), 2 strips of inch thick double sided sticky foam, a tube of sikaflex, mesh to cover the lower vent holes, a load of rivets and some self tapping screws... Oh and a nasty pink booklet with the instructions written in German... :roll: From what I can translate, the idea is that you rivet the bumper to the ironwork through the indicator/fog light holes, using the 2 sticky foam strips (about 18" long each) behind the numberplate recess to attach it firmly there. Then you sikaflex any part of the ironwork that touches the bumper to ensure it's stuck well... I've not yet done this, but it appears to be a very good fit. I can confirm that the fogs and indicators plonk straight in with no hassles whatsoever... 8) To get around the problem of the side vents being where the "cotton reel" hangers are, the instructions suggest that you screw the inner wheel liners to the bumper to give it support using 5 screws each side... If I have no luck in sourcing any ABS to plastic weld these vents out, I may well give this a go and see what happens... :? The bumper is a really nice fit, even just balancing it onto the front of the car shows this, it's made of 2.5mm thick ABS and is reasonably finished on all of the parts you'd see when it's on the car... Anyway, here's a load of photos...

In a nutshell... 8) Dot 5.1 Isn't silicone based so won't affect your seals at all, it will also mix happily with DOT3 or DOT4 fluids, so if you find yourself stuck with low fluid and a slight leak, a bottle of bog standard fluid can get you unstuck... 8) DOT5.1 isn't that much more expensive, and once you've done it, you'll not have to do it again, unless you boil it! :shock: Ya gotta remember that the Bently manual was written a few years ago now, and technology moves on pretty damn fast! :lol:

I REALLY like google! :wink: Definition of DOT5.1 and another one: From a manufacturer

DOT5.1 shouldn't cause any of the problems associated with DOT5... IIRC I've got DOT5.12 in mine :? I've been running DOT5.1 in my VWs for the last 5years or so with no problems at all... 8)

fair enough... I stand corrected... 8)

Are you sure about the crank Gav? I read in one of the initial reviews of the G60 engines that the crank was different to put up with the extra stresses... I could well be wrong though, and I never mind being corrected if that's the case... 8) I know the 1H is a completely different block, it's a smaller CC for a start! :wink: As it happens, the new engine for my 'rado is built around a 1H block as my PG block was knackered so was scrapped... :?

Standard VAG at the moment... I may upgrade at one of the shows in the summer, but they're reasonably new ones so I don't see the point at the moment... 8) I have heard good things about the magnacor ones though... 8)

VW disks, go to the dealer... It's quite amazing how much they've dropped their prices on bits like these recently... 8) That's a pretty good price on the pads too...