Henny

The PG block is a one off. There are plenty of SIMILAR blocks out there in VW's catalogue, but the PG block is the only one with the waterjacket, oilways and oil sprayers upgraded for the super charger... Even the Rallye's 1H block is slightly different in that it has a different waterjacket layout around the piston areas which is (apparently) even better than the PG block's... 8) Also, the crank is different in a G60 (one's cast, one's forged) and the head is also very slightly different, although I've yet to work out where... :? I've been doing quite a lot of research into G60 engines over the last 6 months after mine expired! :roll: :lol:

K&N are the ones to go for IMHO... They're a cotton based filter, so there are other similar ones available too. The ones to avoid af the foam ones and the metal mesh ones... These don't filter well enough for the close tollerances in the G60 unit and so some larger particles can get through causing wear in your charger. :shock: They don't make a large difference over the stock paper ones, but you've got the advantage that you know you won't have to mess with it for over 18months! :)

IIRC there's a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, so it's very similar to bleeding the brakes: open nipple, press peddle, close nipple, lift off peddle... :) I use Dot 5.1 in my cars as I've always found it to be good and I have never overheated it, where as the old dot4 stuff I used to use in my earlier cars I boiled on a number of occasions... :shock:

Nice and sensible there, Ka`! Soldering is definately the way to do it, and is something I'll do once I re-fit my stereo in the summer before the shows! :wink: :lol: It's too cold in my car for my soldering iron to get hot enough to melt the solder at the moment, and I'm not taking my blowtorch heated one into my car! :wink: :roll: If you've picked up the factory stereo live and earth, trace these back, and the rest of the wires should be inside the same foam insulation sleave that these feed from... I've just found a right wiring bodge job where my stereo had been fitted... :shock: Permanent live off the cigarette lighter (can we say "correct fuse rating"?!?) and the ignition live was taken off the rear heated screen switch, but wasn't used in the stereo so was just floating about... This is probably why the flipping screen always used to blow the fuse as soon as you put a new one in the box... :roll: :lol: Hey-ho, it'll be right once I've finished it! 8) Just make sure that you find the Blue/White wire and insulate it and tape it up well out of the way so that you don't have any of the fun with the spoiler and speedo going mad... 8)

Cool, Gotta ask these questions, 'cos I don't know who knows what and I like being helpful! 8) The clutch does use the same fluid in the master/slave set up, so don't forget to bleed these through as well as the brakes when you dump the old fluid... :wink: You'll be suprised at the difference it makes to the feel of the car when you've done it as the odds are, on a car like yours, it's never been seen as needing to be changed... Your brakes will feel stronger and more positive, and your clutch will just feel nicer and smoother... 8)

Jedi? Are you actually getting FADE, (the peddle stays as firm, but the braking effect becomes less) or is the peddle just getting more squishy when the brakes are very hot? :? It sounds to me like a brake fluid change may not go amiss on your car if you think that the standard brakes aren't up to much... I've got Genuine VAG pads * and disks on the front of my G60 (same size as VR6) and I'm impressed with them... Coming down from an indicated 140mph on the speedo, there was no fade, no hassles and they worked really well... They've also done me proud coming over the top between Macclesfield and Buxton, which most bikers will know is one hell of a road to drive :wink: , with no fade whatsoever... HOWEVER, I did change the brake fluid when I got the car and it made a massive difference, to both the brakes and the feel of the clutch too... :) Worth thinking about, for the extra £20 it'll add on for the fluid... 8) * admittedly, I'm now putting the Brembo conversion on, but that's only 'cos I don't think that the standard brakes will deal with my new engine, intercooler, charger etc well enough for my liking! :wink: :lol:

That's just from memory... If you need a full list of speaker wire colours and everything, just lemme know, 'cos I've got the dashboard on mine in bits and have just spent a couple of days wiring in my new ICE system, gauges and other bits and bobs... :wink:

illumination wire = blue with grey. speed sensor wire = blue with white! Don't get the two mixed up else your spoiler will stop working! :roll: :lol:

Having just looked at the construction of that, it looks like it's a Methanol/nitromethane fueled, 2 stroke, ABC ported engine similar to those I used to use in my R/C car... In which case, you don't need to torque the engine bolts up, but you WILL need to use some thread lock to make sure that the bolts don't shake loose! 20,000rpm engines tend to produce quite a bit of high freqency vibrations that can shake bolts loose! :shock:

Ah, try this... http://www.flirble.org/chrisy/images/Ra ... struction/ Ain't google ace?!? :wink: :lol:

Never done R/C helecopters, only cars... sorry... :roll: :wink: :lol:

ah-ha! 1.8? I may be able to help then! :wink: It sounds to me like there is a missing/dodgy earth strap that may well be the cause of both of your problems... 8) There's a THICK earth strap (the one that's got the battery terminal on it!) which goes from the battery to the chassis (on the battery tray) and then onto one of the gearbox to engine bolts. These have a nasty habbit of going green and high resistance which doesn't help any of the engine sensors much. There's also one from the corner of the head to one of the bolts that holds the coil on. AFAIK, these are both common to all 4cylinder 'rados and cause no end of problems! :roll: Try replacing both of these, shouldn't cost much from the dealer (about £25 for both IIRC) and see if it cures your problem. If it doesn't, then take the big rubber bit off the top of the metering head, and check that it's nice and clean in there, if it's really oily in there, or there's any solid debris at all, you need to clean it out VERY CAREFULLY! If the flap becomes contaminated too much, then the weight of it becomes altered so the way it reacts to changes in air movement will alter causing all sorts of headaches (yes, I've had this happen to both of my K-Jet cars! :roll: ). If neither of these cure it, then it could well be the good old ignition switch playing up... Again, about £25 and an hour to fit (if you can use a screw driver, you can DIY! 8) ) Good luck!

is yours a 1.8 or a 2litre 16v? Welcome to the forum by the way... :)

dodgy top mount, dodgy ball joint, dodgy wishbone bushes, dodgy wheel bearing... There's enought bits on the front suspension that only one of them could cause this problem... There's also enough parts that this should be professionally looked at ASAP! :?

If you have any mechanical ability, it may be worth your time to take the rear disks off and check the rotor cages on the back of the disks... 8) This is exactly what my G60 started to do not long after I got her, and it annoyed the hell outta me for ages until I changed rear disks and realised that one of the rotors wasn't attached properly and so occasionally stopped spinning at the correct speed causing the fault... :? :roll:

If it's on the standard 15" rims, and not REALLY low, then you've got a pretty serious suspension problem if you're getting rubbing... :shock: I'd advise getting it checked out ASAP! :?

No problems.... After smelling the underlay on my MKI (and recently my mates... :? ) I wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy! :shock: :pukeright: :lol: If that helps anyone not have to suffer that, then I'm a happy man! 8)

Kev, you're getting too clever with these mods... :wink: What with your rear wiper lupo thingy, AF gauge, and then this, what are us poor mortals supposed to do to impress?!? :wink: :lol: 8)

Dynamat and Brownbread are relatively thin sound proofing substances, both better suited to door skin/quarterpanel skin/boot floor sound deadening... :? The stuff you need to get is a decent car carpet underlay. This both acts as a sound deadening layer, and boosts the "squishiness" of the carpet to give it a more luxurious feeling like the orginal stuff does... There are plenty of stands at shows that sell this stuff if you ask, or your local re-trimmers should stock it for not a lot of money... I tended to get mine from a stand called "spirit of the 50's" at shows where Aircooled stuff go as well. It was about £20 for a roll that will happily overdo your Corrado! (used to use it in my MKI and it is excellent.... :D ) By all means, use Dynamat or Brownbread under your fibre insulation for ultimate sound isolation, but you'll miss the feel of the fibre stuff if you've not got it... :? Oh, and most of the newer fibre stuff doesn't get water logged or rot, so once you've done it, if you get another leak, you just need to dry it... 8) (trust me on this one, it works! :roll: :lol: )

Nope, even though my car is up on axle stands with the engine about 20 yards away, the interior is bone dry 8) Funnily enough, I cleared all of the scuttle panel area out when I bought the car after having problems with a MKI Golf for the same reasons... :? :roll: :lol:

Clearnace depeneds on which size rims you are running and how low you are running it... :roll: You may well have to run without the plastic liners to get the clearance you need if you are running 17's and rather low.... :wink:

Probably just crud in the sensor ring/cage... :roll: don't worry about it unless it keeps doing it... 8)

G60's don't have a fault memory in the ECU... If you have an ABS fault, the only time you can read which fault it is, is when the light is on and the car is still running... Turn off the ignition and the fault is cleared... :? Took me bloody ages to get the car to VAG with the light on to find out what the fault was when mine went faulty the first time... :? :roll:

Unless someone has done a VAGCOM style test on your ABS system and got the codes for you, I'd be VERY dubious that this is a pump fault... If it's a pump fault, I'd expect the light to come on instantly (Ie, never go out) when you turn the ignition on... The self test primes, fires and interrogates the pump to make sure it's OK before it does any of the other checks... By going out, the light is telling you there's no problems with the pump... :? If the light comes back on again when you are moving at 5MPH+ then you have a faulty wheel sensor (probably one of the fronts) which will cost you the grand total of about £40 + half an hour to fit... Get the ABS light on, get it to someone with VAGCOM, and find out EXACTLY which code is put out by the system... Then you'll be certain of what the fault is, rather than going with a garage's "gut feeling".... :roll: Good luck... 8)

:roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)