Henny

One thing to add (it caught me out!) The engine stand DOES NOT come with bolts to hold the engine onto it! You need some bolts long enough to go through the stand's arms and into the thread on the engine to be able to mount an engine to the stand... :roll:

You were testing the resistance of the sensors with the car wheels stationary weren't you? :? If the wheel was spinning, then you'd get all sorts of weird readings as this is how the sensors work! 8)

White G60 this morning crossing the A34 just outside Congleton... Nice and standard, but well in need of a clean! Also, Early, Blue, J plate G60 leaving Chorlton heading towards Didsbury at around 9:30 this morning... I was in a totally anonymous red MKII Golf, so didn't wave or anything 'cos I'd look like more of a nut than I actually am! :wink:

Just to check, the way you test them is this: 8) FRONTS: On the top of the strut each side, there is a black multiplug. This often has a red splodge of some sort of sealant on it, and one side (brain side IIRC) is bolted to the strut top. Disconnect this plug, and test the resistance across the 2 internal connections on the wire that runs down to brake area. The sensors should read a couple of K ohms resistance (max!) across them. If one has totally gone, it'll read REALLY high resistance (several M-ohm) REARS: I've not done rears before, but I'm told there's the same sort of connection under the rear seat which you test in the same way as the fronts... Again, you're looking for a single reading that's miles different from the other 3. I'm not sure what you mean by: If you mean that the readings were totally different from the readings that you got when you tested the brain side of the plugs, then this is correct, they should be. The brain side of the wiring just goes straight into the ABS brain and so you're just testing the resistance across the electronics while they are switched off... I wouldn't have advised doing this, as I have no idea what electronic components are in the brain at the point where the sensors attach, and it could be possible to cause some expensive damage by testing the resistance by connecting a multimeter which just puts a voltage through the circuit... :? You should be OK though, as the ABS brains are pretty resistant to most things... 8) The 4 readings that you need to compare are the ones from the 4 sensors, ignore the brain side of the wiring for now... Write 'em down while you do them, making sure you note down which setting your multimeter is on so you can tell if it's in K-Ohm, M-Ohm or just straight Ohms and you'll spot the one that's gone PDQ! :)

You should get those solid readings when testing the wiring back to the brain as you describe. You should also get 4 readings similar to each other when testing across the sensor side of the plugs too. If there's one that's miles out (which my betting is that there will be) then that's your dodgy sensor. 8)

The Gearbox needs to be taken off before mounting the engine onto the stand that I've bought... The picture on the box nine came in has a complete big block V8 on the stand, so a nice little light VR6 won't break it! :wink: See HERE for more details... 8) Actually, looking at that, it may not help you too much with the job you need to do... :? Have a look and see what you think... I've never worked on a VR6 so I'm now passed my experiance on this one... :roll: :wink: 8)

I just bought an engine stand from machine mart for about £35. It's brilliant and I wish I'd have had one for the last engine that I built too! :roll:

I've got my crossovers sticky-back-velcro-ed under the tweeters in the dash. no rattles, easy(ish) access and easy to get the wires to... 8)

Ok, so I'm back to work in about 6 hours :cry: I've totally failed to rebuild my engine while I've been off, mainly 'cos I forgot to buy the new stainless bolts, and the bolt shop's been shut over Xmas, :roll: :oops: and I can't sleep... So I modded my dash clocks to cheer me up... :wink: :roll: :lol: What do you think? I think that they match my Autometer gauges nicely... 8) It's amazing what you can do with a scanner, some silver paper, a decent printer, a sharp knife, some superglue and insomnia! :lol: LCDs illuminate red, all of the clocks are lit with no filters, so white/yellow light... 8)

You're thinking about the servo Gav... The ABS pump is a seperate item. Intermittent faults which only occur when moving could also be the mechanical part of the ABS sensor (the bit wot spins that the sensor detects!) or dodgy wiring. (had both on my C :roll: ) If the light goes out after the ignition is turned on, and only comes back on over 6mph BEFORE you've pressed the brake peddle, it can't be a pump fault as the pump has not yet been used and has passed the initial power on test.

There's an electrical sensor for each wheel else the ABS wouldn't know when your rear wheels were locked up. As well as the electrical sensor, there's a mechanical part that turns past the sensor. On the front there's a flat ring (like a coin with a hole in the middle) that has a series of holes around the outside of it. This is attached to the back of the hub where the brake disk attaches to. On the rear, there's a mesh cage (for want of a better description) that sits on the back of the disk. If one of your rear disks has gotten very hot, then the odds are that this cage has expanded with the heat and fallen off. It won't actually come off unless you take the disk off, but it'll stop spinning at the same speed as the disk meaning that you get the fault light... It'll pass the ignition switch on test and go out but then come on when you get over around 6mph, or hit a lot of bumps. If it never goes out after you turn on the ignition then you've definately got either a dead sensor, wiring fault or dodgy pump... It can't be a ring or cage fault as these cannot be tested by the ABS brain when stationary. If you've overheated a pad, you'll need to bleed the fluid on both rears to ensure safety. If you're in any doubt as to your rear brakes, get 'em checked out professionally. A set of rear pads over here is about £20 top. Takes about 30 mins to change both sides if you've got a good mechanic, anything over an hour and they're taking the piddle... :roll:

C&R = C&R Enterprises in Nottingham, good bunch with some excellent parts and good knowledge of most things VW... :) Click here for website

Yup, I have no idea why it would go out when you boot it though... The front sensors are normally the weak link in the C's ABS system 'cos they have to put up with lots of heat, water, road muck etc etc etc... If your light is always on, then it's either a totally dead sensor, broken wire, or a dead pump :? To check the sensors, use a multimeter set to resistance reading, and on top of the front strut mounts in the engine bay, there's a connector with a black cable. Check the plug to the front of this for resistance on both sides of the car. If one's dead, then it'll give a stupidly high resistance reading (in the Mega Ohms range!). If both read the same, then it could be a rear sensor, or, again, wiring or pump... IIRC there's the same sort of connectors under the rear seat for the rear sensor, but I've never looked for these, do I couldn't swear to it. Again, if they're there, you should be able to test the resistance of the rear sensors to see if one is dead there too. Good luck...

Yup, you just beat me to that answer, dr_mat! :D Bigpants? Get it checked out as a matter of priority, the one thing you don't want to fail on you is your brakes! :shock:

Any time you like for this mod... 8)

Ok, so what are the exact symptoms? 8) Turn on ignition, what does the light do? Start the car, what does the light do? Pull away normally, what does the light do? Pull away fast, what does the light do? At roughly what speed does the light turn on if it's not at stationary? When the light is on, and you turn the ignition off, (when stationary! :roll: :lol: ) then on again, what does the light do? Have you had any brake or suspension work done recently? Give us some details, and we'll see what we can dream think up... :wink: 8)

hehe when i read this post i thought u was gonna say Halfords £10 = non amplified = REALLY rubbish reception VAG £30 = amplified = rubbish reception LOL The first time I wrote it I did :wink: but then I decided it was a bit too negative, and I've promised myself that I'll be more positive this year... :roll: :lol:

Halfords £10 = non amplified = REALLY rubbish reception :scrambleup: VAG £30 = amplified = reasonable reception... Euro car parts £16.23 = VAG £30 :wink: 8)

Cool, 8) I'll file that in with the rest of the bits and bobs I've picked up here for when mine stops working... :roll: :wink: :lol:

I get my heatshrink from RS in bulk packs, but then, work does kinda end up paying for it :wink: :lol: RS also do the crimp'n'glue stye connectors too... I've not used 'em much other then on telephone wires, but they seem pretty good... 8)

Yup, in exactly the same way that if you've got muck beind your brake disks, then the brakes can feel warped even when they're not... 8)

could be the classic problem with the ignition switch failing... Depends on how long it'll run for... If it dies as soon as you let go of the key once it's started, I'd think about changing the switch...

I'm pretty certain that it's in the springy press thing that opens the boot slightly when you unlock it and press the release. It's on the bootlid anyway, about 1cm diameter black plastic sprung thing...

*cough* Search for HAZET, or click this... *cough* :roll: :lol:

I have to disagree with you there... :? I'm exceptionally happy with my supersport coilovers. Their ride is slightly firmer than standard, but isn't harsh or crashy and is very easy to get on with... Then again, any coilovers get VERY hard when you drop the car onto the floor, which is something I'd never intentionally do...