Henny

Hey! you don't need to tell me that! :wink: :lol:

Nearly bought a 2.0 Audi Coupe... I really like the look of 'em, kind of aggressive and squarish, but MAN, was it underpowered when I test drove it!??! :shock:

I'm pretty certain that the gearbox is the same as the one in the same aged passat... The Haynes manual for that IS available easily and cheaply and is pretty good for gearbox work... 8) Can anyone confirm if I'm right about the Passat box? :?:

When I was 19 a guy I knew (a pilot) bought a Ferrari 348TS with the number plate "A 348 TSR", he popped into the garage I was working in over the summer and asked if I wanted to have a go... as I got into the passenger seat, he laughed and threw me the keys, I nearly sh@ myself :shock: It was one of the most scared I'd ever been in a car, knowing that it was a brand new Ferrari, the owner was sat next to me, and I was driving it through the town I live in with the targa roof off and the sun shining... Lovely... 8) just sod's law I didn't see anyone who knew me! :roll: :lol: I have no idea how much the car was worth at the time, but I know that they're about £40K NOW nearly 10 years later! :shock: I've also driven a few Porsches, a 1964 912, 3 or 4 356s (coupe and convertable) a late 1970's 911 turbo (forget the exact year) some of which were worth silly money 'cos they were rare. I also think that the Nissan Skyline GTS I drove may have been up there in terms of cost... A mate imported it from Japan when it was only a couple of years old... It was only the RWD version with a single Turbo when it left the factory, but the Japanese guy who bought it paid cash, took it a few miles up the road and then spent the same again on having it modified... :shock: It was SERIOUSLY quick but really didn't feel it when you were driving it until you looked at the speedo.... :? :shock:

Ah, it all becomes clear now! :oops: I also thought you were on about a G60 devnull sorry for any confusion caused... 8) Hope your tool fits when it arrives... It's always a pain when you come to do a job and realise that you haven't got a tool that will work (and you can't get away with just a big bar and a hammer! :lol: )

The flywheel has 6 bolts (as Ant said, 9mm 12 sided) holding it onto the end of the crankshaft of the engine. They are set in a slightly weird pattern to ensure that you can only re-fit the flywheel correctly one way so that the TDC mark will always be in the correct place! :) The CV joints couple onto the drive flanges on the differential of the gearbox using 8x internal spline drive bolts per drive shaft (very similar looking to 6mm hex heads when they're dirty!), from the description above, you're talking about taking the CV joints off the gearbox... :? What's confusing everyone (including me :roll: ) it that to remove the gearbox you'd have had to remove these near the start of the job... :? If you really are having problems with the 6 bolts that hold the flywheel onto the crankshaft, is there any chance that you can get a photo and post it up here so that we can see exactly what it is that you are on about? It sounds very much like someone's replaced the 6 original 12 sided bolts with something different... :shock: :?

Ummm, I got the same one on my G60 when I bought it... I thought all UK G60s had this leather clad wheel? :?

Cleaning the intercooler is a good idea... Cleaning it with petrol I'm not too sure about?!? :? Taking the I/C off is quite easy, but it does mean that you've got to move the bumper forwards on it's hangers (undo the 4 bolts that hold it on and the hundreds that hold the lower spoiler on) so that you can get at the hidden top bolt for the I/C... If you're any good with a set of spanners and sockets, it shouldn't take you too long to remove/replace it... 8) I cleaned mine out with dry washing powder first (absorbs oil/crud like nothing else!) then washed it through with a hose for about 20 mins. I then blew it through with a heat gun and then left it in direct hot sunlight for a couple of hours and then on my central heating boiler over night just to ensure that it was completely dry... It seemed to make a fair amount of difference, although I had just had the head gas-flowed at the same time so it's difficult to say! :lol:

Been there, seen that, registered already! :wink: :lol:

As daft as it sounds, Halfords and Maplins both sell a solar re-charger... All you need to do is plug it into your cigarette lighter socket and leave it on your dash to keep your battery topped up... 8) It's perfect for cars that are left outside for longish periods of time as it only has to produce 12V at about 0.5A for a few hours a day to stop the battery from going flat over time, which it should easily be able to do, even in the UK with our pants weather! 8) :lol:

Brake warning light problem could be that you've got non-wear-sensor pads fitted and the sensor wire is touching metal on acceleration making the light flicker as it should when you're pads are low... Have a look behind the front wheels with the wheel off (car jacked up, obviously! :lol: ) and see if you can see a multi-plug that's not attached, or a pair of dangling wires, then these could cause your light to come on... Also check that the insulation on these wire is OK, as if it has worn through and is touching an earth then this would also cause the light to flicker... 8)

I change my brake fluid as a matter of course when ever I get a new car after the brakes on an old GTI I had left me in the middle of a crossing thanking god that there was nothing coming! :shock: I now always drain the system as much as possible (including hydraulic clutch if it's got one) and add in DOT5.1 fluid afterwards making sure that I'm certain that it's got ONLY the new fluid in the system... I've yet to get brake failure on my cars and the clutches always feel LOADS better afterwards since I started with DOT5.1, I've also never had any problems with seals or the like and I put 40K on one of my cars before getting rid with no brake problems at all.... 8)

Yup, 's me! 8) 225K + miles and was going strong until the crank bolt snapped (basically the same as the cam belt snapping :? :shock: ) So she's engine-less at the moment and the engine's off getting re-bored, balanced, lightened, gas-flowed and generally messed with! :lol: She'd still be going strong if it weren't for that bolt, but when I stripped her down, there was definate signs of (you could SEE, never mind feel) bore wear, but at 225K+ I'm not too suprised! :lol: 8) I was originally planning on just a straight re-build until the bolt sheared off, but it happened to come at a time I'd just got some money in my pocket, so I thought "what the hell!" :lol: Just make sure, if you get a 100K+ G60, that you get the 'charger rebuilt, give it quite a lot of TLC and make sure that all seems well before enjoying it too much... A few hundred quid when you buy the car could save you loads afterwards... :? 8)

Best bet is to ask/PM John (16VG60) as he's been running a 16VG60 for a while now and knows most of the ins and outs behind it.... 8) He's pretty good with dishing out the knowledge and has always been totally straight and honest with me... 8)

I'm well up for making one of these for my C... If you can PM me the wiring diagrams/parts list, I'd be well happy! 8)

Standard 8V GTI engine (basically the same as the G60 but without the 'charger) is about 115BHP. Standard G60 engine WITH supercharger is 160BHP. I'd guess that you'll be about 60BHP down at the moment, you're fueling will be WAY out (running VERY rich!) and you'll get overtaken by snails... :? :lol: You'll also have lost a shed load of low down torque (which is the important power measurement)... :? Get a Supercharger fitted and you'll be laughing in a BIG way! 8)

mmm, tempting... I'll PM you about this when I get some of my finances sorted out... 8) :wink:

Funnily enough, I'm gonna replace EVERY sender on my engine when I get it back from re-bore and rebuild it... I can't deal with having any more problems with it once it's rebuilt so I'll spend the cash on it now and hope that she behaves! :roll: 8) You were more than welcome biggrim glad that it all got sorted in the end... :D

Blue is for the ECU and black is the dash gauge sender... JAMES, you need the black one mate, not the blue one (although replaceing both's never a bad idea!) Don't forget to buy the rubber O rind gaskets while you're getting them! :roll: 8)

mmmm, 8) How much for the kit to install it to a 'rado?

Sod the polished bit, that intercooler looks like it means it! :shock: What/where's it designed to fit? 8) OK, the polished charger looks really nice too! 8)

Cast Iron manifolds do crack occasionally.... I'll admit it's not particularly common on VWs, but it wouldn't suprise me if it has cracked as diagnosed.... :? I've known of a cast iron engine block that cracked due to some prat putting cold water in when the engine was hot... :shock: :roll: Consider that the exhaust manifold is pretty much the hottest part of a non-turbo car with the least cooling... Any slight flaw in the casting is gonna get stressed every time you fire up the engine, add in the weather and possible engine washing when hot by a previous owner/garage, and it's pretty good that they tend to last as long as they do! :shock: :lol: It could be worse... My mate had a Merc and the manifold on that cracked... He was quoted £1500 for a new one + fitting by Merc, £800 + fitting by a second hand merc place that would only give 3 months warantee and £950 for a custom made one + fitting... Oh, and fitting was between 5 and 8 hours labour! :shock: Not good on a £3K merc! :shock: He sold it in the end! :lol: If you're not sure if it's the donwpipe or manifold, take it to a GOOD exhaust specialist and ask them to show you where it's cracked as they do a quote for you... Shouldn't cost you anything and you don't have to take them up on the quote... :wink: 8) p.s. Brando I luuurrrvvveee your end quote! Sums me up to a tee! :lol: :lol: :lol:

You don't have to be a business, but you do have to be a "professional"... Professional what I've never worked out, but I'm a member anyway... :roll: :lol: They do 2 member levels, Trade (businesses) and Member (professionals) the only difference is the times they'll let you shop... There's not a lot in it really...

If I were to come up with a LEGAL way around these new camera systems, what sort of cash would people be willing to pay for the device? (You'd need a kit of 2, one front and one back) They need 2 wires feeding to them, (earth and ignition live) and are easy to fit and shouldn't be obvious when installed... I've had a few lawyers look into it, and they're not illegal to use on the road, sell, buy or install at the moment. They work on all digital and video based systems but NOT Gatso cameras (you'd still need a radar detector for them!) I'm in the process of making a couple of prototype ones at the moment for my G60 and I'm just wondering how much I could sell them for and if it's worth my while to do... Sensible answers please... :roll: :lol:

Yeah, it also depends on the soundcard you are listening to it on... Trust me, at work we spend £1000+ PER soundcard and £1000 PER SPEAKER for the production guys so that they can hear EVERY detail in their audio... :shock: I didn't think that you'd be able to hear the difference from a reasonable £300 set up very much, but BOY was I wrong... :shock: :roll: :lol: I now run a pretty damn good soundcard and Technics AA class amp + good speakers at home on my PC 'cos I've got picky as to what I listen to... :? What I'm trying to say (badly due to drink! :roll: ) is that any exhaust sound you could record is just an interpretation of what it could sound like... You'd have to match speakers, amp, microphone, car, engine, conditions etc etc etc to be able to say "this is what your exhaust will sound like..." Not many exhaust manufacturers would be able to afford to fit a system to every make of car and then record the noise they make... It's a nice thought, but pretty much impossible... :?