Henny

It was my mechanic mate who finally convinced me that a new Momo wheel was a very good idea... He just pointed out that it doesn't matter how good your tyres, brakes, engine or suspension are if your steering wheel is slippery and causes you to crash... :shock: :lol: I'd never go back to driving a decent performance car without changing the wheel for a nice one now... I don't think that I can justify it in my current 1.6 driver Golf though! :roll: :lol:

Clicking from the gearbox could be a CV joint... does it do it cornering at low speeds as well? Metallic clicking, plastic clicking? Any other info may jog someone's memory into a diagnosis and possible cure... 8) Hopefully it'll be something reasonably easy to sort out... 8) Always think positively, that's what 'rado ownership has taught me... :? :lol:

I'd use something like a graphite one which should be perfect. Even though it may have felt quite free to you, you've got to remember that an allen key on the end of your hand can produce a whole hell of a lot more torque to turn the mechanism than a small motor like the sunroof one... :? HiAsAKite there's a standard sized (can't remember but think it's a 6mm) allen key hole in an underside bit of the motor. You remove the interior lamp and housing and you can get at it easier... I'm not sure if it was there on the earlier motors though... I've seen people drill a small hole in the cover just in case! :roll:

Snap! I went through 509s, 510s, 520s and am upto 539s now! I've still not found anything as good as the 509s in the dry... or as bad in the wet! :? :roll: :lol: Yoko have worked hard at getting a good compromise between wet and dry grip and, I for one, can't wait to see what the next 5XX tyre's gonna be like! 8)

I agree Kev, I have had to do similar (and actually got asked by a police man what I was doing while hotwiring my car! :? :lol: ) and it's pretty easy to work it out... The harder bits are getting around the Thatcham alarm/immobiliser and the steering lock which you still need to do to steal the car... A local car thief in our area got caught and had 8 ignition switches in his pocket from different types of car... :? He used to break in to a car, pull the multiplug off the back of the switch, start the car with his switch and then break the steering lock after knowing that he could start the car... :shock:

Let me get this straight... The roof winds back properly by hand but not on the motor? If this is correct, then the mechanism hasn't broken, it's just that the motor hasn't got the torque to overcome the resistance of the mechanism. Take the motor out and grease it + all of the runners when the roof is fully back... The runners are very long and can cause some serious amounts of resistance to the movement if not properly greased. I had this problem with my C when I first got it after I'd just changed the mechanism for a new one (old one was well dead!) :? If greasing it doesn't help (it may need assistance a few times before it's free enough to go on it's own) then you probably need a new motor, but I'd also check that you're getting a nice clean 12V to the motor before handing out cash for a new motor... 8) A bit of grease and all should be well again... 8)

I've had a couple of new ideas about glow in the dark needles... I've found some paint that continues to glow quite brightly for over 8 hours after complete darkness... It's also available in different colours too, but the colours that last the longest are a greeny yellow (usual glow in the dark colour) and a bluey-green colour that looks rather cool. Both are clear in normal light so that you can have your needles in any colour you want and just paint a layer of this over the top. I'm in talks with the company to get a sample to see if it works. I came up with a daft idea of having a light in the front of the instruments with a small switch that you can turn on for a minute or two which will re-charge the glow if your car has been parked somewhere dark for over 8 hours, but I don't know how practical that will be... I'll let you know when I get the sample and put some photos up... 8)

Either your sender in the petrol tank has jammed/become sticky so it's not floating to the top of the tank, OR the wiring to the sender has become faulty and is adding in a resistance to the circuit giving you a false reading... It could also be that the gauge is bust too, but I'd leave that one 'til last as it's more difficult to check that one... :? Is this a recent problem, or has it done it since you have had the car?

Andi? White dials + UV light = VERY BRIGHT dials at night... :? :shock: :roll: I thought that the point of the UV was that the dials were black so that they wouldn't shine up in the UV light and that the needle will have a coat of UV sensitive paint so that it WILL shine at night... The lettering wouldn't matter due to the back lighting which are the whole point of these dials... Have I got some wires crossed here, or has no-one else spotted this? :?

Keep trying Andi! 8) I'm up to over 230K at the moment and as soon as the new engine hits the spot I reckon another 100K will be on the cards in the next 5 years! :shock: :lol: And then I go and wonder why I spend so much on my car... :roll:

I've got a set of Yoko A539s on my G60 and I love 'em to bits... Good grip in the wet and excellent grip in the dry. 8) The wear rate on them isn't bad either... I did about 17K on the fronts before they needed replacing and the rears are less than half worn. That's not a bad price for them if they're 539s in that size either. 8) I've had A520s before on my 16V and was impressed with them at the time, although having A539s now I don't rate the 520s as highly 'cos the 539s wipe the floor with them in the wet... 8)

I think that the windows, spoiler, sunroof and headlamp switches light up when the ignition is on... The window switches stay lit while the windows are enabled (ie they stay on until the drivers door is opened and closed... you know what I mean :roll: :lol:) Can't help with the spare switches though...

It sounds like you've damaged the H/L switch or soldered the LED in the light switch in the wrong place... If they're lighting up, then the odds are that you've got the bulbs replacement part right. Something is wrong with the switch for sure... Open it back up and see if there's anything shorting inside it... Good luck!

I would have been coming along in my Golf, but work is sending me to Tenerife for a week, all expenses paid... 8) :lol:

What engine/block is your 2litre based around? Has the ECU been set up for the 2L engine, or is it still running the 1.8 map? What size pulley are you running, and does the ECU map know about that too? Have you checked the cam timings and made sure that your cam belt is on properly with all of the timing marks lined up properly? And, as Beavis mentioned, is your fuel pump noisy at all, and have you checked it out... Continuous pinking is a sign of something REALLY not right, especially if it's on an engine with a knock sensor... :? Hope you get it sorted... Answer some of the above and I'm sure someone here may be able to point you in the correct direction... 8)

That explains an awful lot! :lol: :roll: Personally I think it's 'cos it's such a great driver's car that we have these problems.... People just love DRIVING them rather than just using them from transport... :lol: 8)

If this is the plastic bit on the FRONT of the engine that the top hose for the radiator comes from, then there's two sensors in it... The black one does your water temp gauge, the blue one does your ECU sensing. Check the wiring to the black sensor as this may have broken when it was swapped accross. If the wiring's OK, then you need a new sensor... It's a 2 minute job to do but make sure you replace the rubber O ring with a new one when you're doing it. If it was the plastic pipe on the SIDE of the head/engine then check this for leaks... I had one from VAG not long ago that was warped when I tried to fit it causing water leaks and lots of swearing... :lol: :mad: If there's no pressure even when the system is boiling and you remove the cap, then you've definately got a leak somewhere... Can you see where the coolant is leaking from?

Center the wheel before you do anything so you know where to put it back on again and make sure that the steering lock is NOT on (leave the key in if needs be!) so you don't overstrain the lock when undoing the nut. Pull the center off the wheel (vaires as to which wheel you've got fitted as to how to do this.) Undo the BIG nut (32mm IIRC) and remove nut + washer Pull wheel from both sides (may need some gentle persuasion :wink: ) There's a brass ring on the back of the wheel boss and some brass contacts next to the column that need cleaning, use a decent grease afterwards and, in good old fashioned style, re-fitting is the reverse or removal! :roll: :lol: Good luck! 8)

Is your gearbox inspection bung missing? There's a bung on the top of the gearbox that you use for seeing the timing marks on the flywheel... If this is missing you could have moisture getting on to your clutch which may cause this problem... It's worth checking anyway... 8)

Glad that you managed to get it done, Chuck 8) It's amazing how many people don't bleed the clutch system through even though it gets more use than the brake's hydraulic system! :shock: Bet that the clutch feels 1000000% better now! :D My engine is currently sat on a pallet in my garage waiting for me to send it to John (16VG60) to get it seen to... It was supposed to go late this week, but the courier was being a bit odd about coming to my house to collect it instead of my work address... I'll take it to work tomorrow and get 'em to take it from there... :roll: Should only be a few more weeks until the engine's back in the car... Then I've got to sort the front mount intercooler, brembo brakes and all sorts of other odds and sods before she can hit the road again... Could be after Xmas at this rate... :? It'll be well worth it though! 8) :lol:

I flew over Concord last week on my way back from Tenerife... Was quite weird having the pilot tell you you were 10000 feet above concord! :shock: :lol:

one word: VAG I put original VAG disks on my G60 when I bought her and have been more than happy with the results. VAG's got a good price structure in place for these parts and they aren't at normal stealer price levels :shock: Good value and you know that they'll last and do what they're supposed to 'cos that's exactly what they were designed for!... :D

Hiya Chuck! If I am right (in this drunken state that I'm in), and the slave cylinder is the one on the gearbox, the bolts should just pull out when undone... I think that you may have to play around with the gear linkage and select a gear so that the slectors are as far away as possible from the cylinder, but it does come out... Trust me, I had to do this earlier this week when removing my engine! :? :D It may take a little bit of wiggling, but it does come out pretty easily... AFAIK brake bleeding is the same on a C as it is on a golf... I can't see any reason why it would be different, and I've never done it any differently on my G60 when I replaced all 4 calipers and put braded hoses on to replace the rubber flexies... 8) Can't help with the other points though, sorry! Good luck!

Pile the pressure on, why not Andi?!?! :lol: I'll do me best to see what I can find out for ya all! 8) You'll have to excuse me, I've been out on the p!ss 'cos it was me B'day yesterday and it's the first night out my mates could meka! :D :roll: :lol:

Got my system custom made by JP Exhausts in Macclesfield for £350... Downpipe back system with my choice of exhaust pipe, finish and exhaust note... This is the second exhaust system I've got from them (different cars, first was 16V MKI golf 9 years ago! :lol: ) and I'm well chuffed with the results. They even fixed it under warantee when I managed to break a weld due to a dodgy engine mount. :oops: No worries or anything... 8) I'm now getting my exhaust manifold gas flowed and a Miltek downpipe to mate to my system from John (16VG60) which is a great price for a fantastic bit of kit! 8)