Henny

At this kind of milage, as soon as you rebuild the top end without touching the bottom end, you're gonna get oil passing the rings from the increased compression a new head will generate over a worn one... You'll find that once the new head is on the old block you quickly start burning MORE oil than before as it'll start passing the rings faster and faster as it can't escape through the valve guides any more so there's more pressure on the rings causing earlier failure... :? :shock: I don't want to sound like a messanger of doom, but on both of the 1.8 KR 16V engines I've had, working on the head has caused the (highish milage) bottom end to start burning oil.... So, what I'm trying to say is that while you've got the head off, it's worth doing the rings and re-hohning the cylinders to make sure this doesn't happen... It shouldn't cost you much depending on if you're doing most of the mechanical work yourself. The parts are not expensive, it may just be the labour that hurts... :roll: :(

It's not an INXXS (or similar, just got back from the pub :lol: ) is it? I got one of these for my late '92 G60 (later bonnet) at Inter's this year and still haven't fitted it as I can't work out how... I think that the one I got is early 'rado only as it doesn't seem to follow any of the instructions at all.... :? :(

Yeah, but would you want to try and pull him over if you were a copper?!? :shock: :lol: He'd just stand there dancing to the lights and siren! :lol: (/Bill Hicks)

OK, so if anyone's seen my thread on "how much is this bolt going to cost me" in the problems section, you'll have read that the crank bolt sheared off as I was bedding in my newly ported/polished/flowed head... :roll: :cry: Well, it's not all bad news :wink: I've decided that seeing as how the engine was an unknown anyway due to the car being clocked, I'm going to do something a bit silly and throw a load of money at building a new engine for her... :D The spec will be something like this: Original PG Block overbored to create genuine 2 litre engine New crank (balanced) G60 Rods New pistons (secret!) Lightened/balanced flywheel The whole bottom end balancing Flowed and ported head (with anything that's been bent replaced! :roll: ) Front mount intercooler (not sure which one yet, got 3 in mind! :roll: ) Mocal oil cooler mounted where the original intercooler was Samco Water hoses Samco air hoses + some custom shiney pipes! :lol: New water pump New oil pump New P/S pump New pulleys on all belt driven items (except the S/C which will be done later) Original injectors (had 'em tested and they're fine at the moment) All new sensors All new stainless steel bolts/nuts/etc... Lots of paint/powdercoating :lol: Once she's all bedded in and run in, she'll be visiting someone for a 68mm pulley and chip (SNS probably!) setup on a rolling road to ensure it's all OK for my 2litre! Exterior wise, she's getting an RS2 style front bumper (if I can find one in plastic!) and a rear mounted camera linked into my new Clarion TV system! :D :D Also I'm going to test my new digital speed trap "privacy device" which stops digital/video cameras from reading my number plates and is perfectly legal! :D (my own invention) She's also going to have a load of paintwork "seen to" as there's loads of chips and scratches at the moment... :( I'll be putting info, photos and bits and bobs up as I do the build, so keep watching! 8)

Make sure that the rotors are a good fit onto the back of the new disks. If they've been opened up by rust on the old disk they'll spin freely on the back of the new disks or get jammed and not spin at all causing the ABS light to come on intermittently... It's $£%@ing annoying when it does it too! They're not expensive IIRC and they're a doddle to fit once you've got the rear disks off... The car should be OK to drive, just be VERY careful as the ABS won't be working if the light is on and the roads are getting slippy with winter fast approaching... You really don't want to have to find out how strong a 'rado is by hitting something... :? :shock:

Glad we could help! 8) You'll probably find that you end up back here every time you think about something on your C... I almost live here now! :lol:

It should just plug in and work... 8) The only thing is that you need to make sure that you get the correct clocks for your car as there are several differences (7K redline for 16V, not 6K... VR6 rev counter uses 6 pulses per rev, not 4... older milometers were mechanical not LCD etc) Good luck! 8)

Yup, got it in one... :lol:

There's a plastic pipe that comes off the pump and runs around the car to all of the locks. This passes the pressure/vaccuum to the actuators at the locks to lock or unlock them. If there's a leak in this pipe (or any of the actuators) the pressure/vaccuum won't be enough to make the actuators work. Check for leaks around the actuators and door/boot hinges as these are common weak points. IIRC there's also a connector under the passenger side of the dash which can leak 'cos that's where my G60 had sprung a leak when I got her... Did the central locking still lock the car before you took out the pump? If it still worked one way but not the other, it means that it's less likely that your pump is dead, which is the other possibility as to why it doesn't work... There's another thread here somewhere about using a pump out of a different car that's slightly bigger and can be bought second hand.... Try doing a search for "pump" and see if you can find it... :D Good luck!

Don't be too sure about it not being clocked... My J plate G60 had 97K on the clock when I bought her and it turns out that it should have read more like 207k! :shock: If yours is a 1.8 16V it'll be at least the same age as mine if not older.... I'm not saying that it is clocked, but just that 'cos it's reasonably high-ish milage, don't think it couldn't have been higher... :? If the screen is cracked, it's probably worth getting hold of a second hand set of clocks... The LCD will almost certainly cost you more than a full set of clocks :roll: There's probably someone breaking a 16V in the sales section here, if not, one'll crop up soon... :) If I remember correctly from when I had my 16V, the 1.8 16V has a mechanical mileometer so you should be able to swap the original speedo into the second hand clocks so that you keep the original milage. 8) Oh, and welcome to the forum! 8)

:lol: :lol: :lol: PMSL :lol: :lol: :lol:

You wouldn't have thought that it can make that much difference would you?!? :shock: Glad you got it sorted... 8)

H177HKC red 16V... Met with a gatepost going sideways and backwards :? :oops: Gone but not forgotten... :cry:

Which year UK cars can I get one of these moonroofs out of? I seriously want one as my sunroof dropped a clip on my head one of the last times I drove it and I just know it's gonna go wrong again, :roll: so if I've gotta swap it again, I'll stick a moon roof in instead! :lol:

Cool! Cheers Darren... Now all I gotta do is find a plastic bumper and I'm sorted! 8)

Good call, I didn't think about that when I wrote my post... 8)

I thought that the only difference in the suspension hubs that would affect wheel fitment on a VR and a G60 were that one was 5stud, one 4... :?:

Most alarms do all of the flashing internally so don't use the car's indicator relay or fuse which is why this will still work... If your indicator switch turns on the green light on the dash, then this is working OK, it's something further down the line that's at fault. Check all of your bulbs are OK when you flash with the alarm. If not, then the dead bulb could be one of the problems. The other thing that springs straight to my mind is the indicator relay, or possibly the indicators fuse. In the fuse box, check that you've got no dead fuses and if not, have a look at the indicator relay (pull it out and give it a shake... shaking2: Rattles aren't good in a relay! ) Should be an easy one to fix, especially if they were working a couple of days ago... You may well find that removing the relay and putting it back in again may make it work again, it could just be stuck... 8) Good luck, and welcome to the Forum! :D 8)

I wire all of my car stereos like this 'cos it annoys the hell outta me having to have the ignition on to listen to the stereo... :lol:

My MKI Golf GTI 16V :lol: 8) Most fun car to drive IMHO :D

I really don't think that a starter button will help... If you've already changed the ignition switch then it's REALLY unlikely that the switch is the problem... (yeah, they're cr@p, but not THAT bad! :roll: :lol: ) If it's not the switch, then unless you put all new wiring in from the starter solenoid to the new starter button and back to the battery, you're probably going to have the same problems... I think you should check out your "load reduction relay" (relay No.4) which does the main current switching and may stop your starter firing if it's dodgy... It's either that or, as you said, a broken wire... neither of which will be cured by putting in a button instead of the switch... Time to get out the multimeter and get testing.... :? 8) Good luck with it either way... 8)

Why did I see that first pic and instantly think "ugh, a Toyota Avensis"??? My opinion... Front: Toyota Avensis.... Says it all... :lol: Side view: Civic Type R :? Dash: grey plastic with lighter grey plastic and silver/aly highlights/details... :pukeright: Engine: yes, it is, but it's got so many covers you wouldn't know it... :roll: Rear: pregnanat Leon :? Clocks: nice... Gotta give them that, I like the clocks... :lol: I quite like the wheels and REALLY like the brembo (well, I'm guessing, but that what they look like) calipers, but to my eyes, it looks like the ba$tard offspring of a new ALFA 147 GTA, Toyota Avensis and Civic Type R, with a hint of Seat Leon... Guess I still like the slight angular look of the C and MKI GTI too much... :lol: 8)

I agree, all of the particular Corrado models were built within a fairly close timeframe e.g. G60's were only built for a couple of years. If a particular item has worn badly on one vehicle then the chances are that other vehicles of the same engine type (and therefore similar age) will also suffer from the same problem. Maybe the existing "problems" section could be split into seperate sections for each engine type ?? I agree that a "known common problems and fixes" section with specific points and cures/fixes/solutions per model in it would be REALLY useful, BUT it would have to be a MOD only update section else you'd never find what you need in there 'cos of all of the "I just found this site and it's really good" posts... :roll: I know that it's great to post that kind of thing in a forum (that's what they're for after all! :lol: ) but in a section like you're talking about making, it needs to be more of a knowledge bank than a forum which can go off on wierd and wacky tangents at a moments notice.... Similar to how this thread has turned into this discussion... :? :lol: I hope you get what I'm trying to say... I think the idea is great, but it would need stricter MODing to make it workable and useful and not just end up with chaos...

:? under the bonnet??!? how??!?

Snap... Even down to the bent watchmaker's screwdriver! :lol: Switches are now about £12 and most stealers keep plenty in stock as they are the same as most of the other VWs ignition switches... :roll: