Henny

Still waiting for my blades and arms to arrive... 9 weeks and counting! :shock: :mad:

When you press down the locking knob on the drivers door, does the central locking go then? The other thing to try (which looks well silly! :lol: ) is to get into the boot (remove the parcel shelf!) close the hatch and alarm the car to see if you can hear the central locking pump going. If you can hear it go when you alarm/de-alarm the car then you've got a split hose somewhere or your pump is goosed... If you can't hear it, pull the muliplug off and check for +ve and -ve and see if any of the values change when you fire the alarm. If none of the values change, your alarm ain't connected properly. If they do, then your pump is goosed... Good luck! 8)

I wrote off my old 16V C 'cos of the back end swinging out as you describe... :cry: I'd noticed that the rear was getting a bit "light" feeling over the previous couple of weeks and then I hit a little bit of diesel on a damp corner and that was it, off I went... :shock: The only reason that my C was written off was due to the fact I twisted the body shell and put a slight crease in the roof... They're remarkably strong cars and, as long as you get it all checked out, you'll probably be OK. I took out a 6" thick oak gatepost complete with 2 feet of concrete when I crashed mine and it only put a slight dent in the sill! :shock: Check to see if you've got matched tyres on your C, (same make, same model) as I found that this can make the rear go light if the front has better tyres than the rear, also check out your rear shocks/springs and have a look at the rear bushes which hold the axle to the car as these can perish and go soft which would cause the rear to go light..... As Joe M says, best case is that you can get the wheel sorted out and there's no other damage. Worst case is rear axle, but don't get too dis-heartened yet as they're becoming more and more available cheaply and if you need to change the bushes then it'll be coming off anyway, so there'll be very little extra labour involved in swapping the two over if needed... :? 8) Hope it all goes well for you and you get your car back on the road ASAP with as little cost as possible! 8)

Early fogs/indicators are set back in the bumper slightly where later ones are more flush with the bumper... The headlamps are (apparently) also slightly different, but I don't know what the differences are on those... Saying that, it took me ages to work out that early bonnets are ---___--- and late ones are ___---___ and I've owned one of each now! :? :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Can't see it..... ...... Oh yeah, it's in my Parent's Garage.... (with Red Star alarm linked to Police station, 100 yards down the road) 8) Hummm red star... Got one of those at work... We get ARMED police within 3 minutes of the alarm trigger guaranteed.... Always fun trying to explain to a heavily armed police-person why some $#!* of a sales person pressed the TWO panic buttons to "see what they did".... :roll: :mad: :2gunfire: Just be done with it and fit a "ha ha, you're deaf!" alarm like I've got... 60 seconds after the alarm, if you're still in the garage, you won't hear anything EVER again! :shock: :D

Be done with it, and go for the full two litres, what's the point in going half way?!? :roll: :lol: Brakes, however, I agree with... Before you mess with the engine on your C, mess with the brakes so that you can stop the thing once you've got it going! :? 8) Guages only needed once you've "played" with the engine! 8) and leather's always nice 8) :D

hummm... I guess you may be a touch excited then?!? :shock: :? :lol: It sounds like it's gonna be a blast... 8) Make sure you let us all know what she can do! :wink:

I guess I should have guessed that from your name! :oops: :roll: :lol: Think I was half asleep when I wrote that post! :? The unit can fail in one of three :shock: ways... Internal failure of oilways resulting in oil exiting engine into the water system and blowing the cap off the expansion tank (this is what my old golf did which then needed an engine rebuild!) External failure of waterways resulting in water escaping into the outside world (sounds like what you have) there should be no contamination of water/oil systems with this failure, just a wet patch on the floor! External failure of oilways resulting in oil leak. This is most uncommon and tends to be just the rubber O ring failing causing an oil leak... Again, no contamination of oil/water systems should happen with this failure... If you've just got a wet patch and your oil and water don't have "Mayo" in them then I recon that you've cracked the water jacket part of the cooler and that's why it's leaking... It oculd also be one of the 2 waterpipes though, or even one of the spring clips which hold the pipes on... Whatever you do, replace the spring clips with either new ones, or a pair of jubilee clips so you don't risk another leak! :D

I did call 'em, but they don't like people who do high milage and I do 20K miles per year so they couldn't do it.... dead friendly and helpful though... 8)

They changed the type of plastic that they make the holders out of a few years ago 'cos the red ones kept breaking... The orange ones aren't as sensitive to heat so they don't go brittle and snap like the red ones do... :) Other than the colour and type of plastic, they're identical... 8)

I always enjoy that conversation whenever I've had it... Kinda makes things seem less hassle... :lol: 8) :wink: Doesn't seem quite the same with HIC 'cos they are always the cheapest... :roll: :D

Venting the head breather into the washer bottle?!? Interesting idea.... Don't fancy looking outta his screen when he washes it while driving! :shock: :? Beautiful clean install though... You wouldn't guess that it'd been modded that heavily... 8)

It was a 1.8 PG G60 engine... It's the bolt that holds the pulleys onto the crank... Turns out that this is a stretch bolt which someone has not changed at some point in the car's history and has just put back in... Imagine your cam-belt snapping and buckling all of the pulleys at the bottom of the engine as well as multiple valves meeting multiple pistons and tensioners being twisted on the supercharger side of things and you're getting close... As I said, dead engine... :roll: :cry: I wouldn't mind as much if I were hammering it, but I was in third at 20MPH in traffic on the way home! :shock: :cry:

'kinell! that was a fast response! I thought I'd screwed up the reply for a minute then when I wasn't the last on the list! :shock: :lol: If you get stuck, I'll have a word with my friendly VAG dealer (well, he's friendly now he's realised how much I've spent there in the last 6 months!) and get the part numbers... It may also be worth phoning euro car parts as I seem to remember that they do them too, and at a much discounted price! 8) :D :wink:

Live and learn 8) I didn't know that... I knew that the senders went to the dash cluster, but I didn't know there was a seperate board for the pressure signal stuff... Betcha it's a dry joint that causes it though... :roll: It's starting to seem that there's a lot of dry joints on these dash clusters that cause all sorts of problems... I think I may just re-solder the lot on my clocks and have done with it! :roll: :lol:

Oooooh, that smarts.... :shock: I'm paying £850 at the moment for my G60 with upto 250BHP, body/suspension/wheel mods and no milage limits AND my golf 1600 Driver (which is limited milage?!? :? ).... I've no points (god knows how, but I LUURRRVVVEEE my radar detectors!) and 5 years NCB with a total write off costing 6K just over 3 years ago... I'm a 27 year old Broadcast (radio) engineer which always bumps the premium up 'cos they assume that I'm going to have famous people in the car (which I sometimes do, but I'm not telling them that... Noddy Holder reckons my G60 is "Scarey, mental fun!" :lol: ) When you next insure your C, make sure you mention that you read "the golf", "PVW" and any other VW mag you can think of, Join CCGB, club GTI, VWOCGB etc,etc,etc and make sure you've pointed out which shows you've been to within the last year.... It knocked over 25% off what I was quoted when I mentioned that lot, and, apparently, I've got "just about" every discount going now!!! 8) :lol: If they don't discount for that lot, tell 'em to go and jump and have a word with HIC, FLUX, Greenlight etc etc etc who specialise in this kind of car... 8)

VAG main dealers do just the glass for the C headlights (both types!) for around £25 + VAT last time I asked... As long as the case (which has the mounting brackets) and the mirror are OK then you're laughing... :lol: 8) :D You may need to beat the parts guy up a bit though 'cos they normally try to sell you the whole lamp, not just the glass which is what you want! 8)

odometer = miles... You mean tachometer (revs) 8) Have you disconnected the battery to see what happens with no power to the car? If you have no battery connected (and the engine is not running!) and the Tacho points to zero then you have a short somewhere in the wiring... If it stays pointing to 3K with no power, your needle has slipped on it's spindle (dunno how :? :shock: ) and your best bet is to remove the cluster, open it up, prise off the needle and stick it back on pointing at zero... :D Hope this helps... 8)

kevhaywire I think you've hit the nail right on the head there... The aluminium oil "coolers" are a bag'o'sh!te... I have had to do an engine rebuild in the past 'cos a car dumped it's oil into the water thru a crack in the "cooler"... They're not even that good at cooling the oil either. Dump it and get a mocal one instead... Depending on which engine you've got in your C depends on how difficult it is to replace. They're not expensive if you don't want to go the Mocal route. On a 1.8 16V it's not difficult and you don't need to remove much apart from the oil, coolant, oil filter BIG nut under the oil filter and the pipes which attach to the cooler... It's tight, but not too difficult... On a G60 things get a bit more interesting! :? Drain the coolant system Drop the oil into a suitable container and recycle like a responsible person... :lol: (public service announcement for the day!) Remove the boost return plastic pipe and the 2 pipes for the intercooler. Remove the charger outlet. Remove the battery, grill and driver's headlight so hhat you can get access... Undo the 4 10mm head screws on the corners of the rad fan cowling and undo the wiring connector to the fan. The fan + cowl can now been removed intact giving you access space to the filter and "cooler"... Disconnect the 2 water pipes to the cooler. Do this BEFORE the next stage else the cooler keeps moving about and it's a pain in the butt to get the water pipes off! (I speak from experience here! :roll: ) Remove the oil filter and above it there's a BIG nut on the thread (think it's a 30mm :shock: ) that you remove to take the cooler off. Putting it back together is roughly the reverse of getting it off, except you add the oil at the top of the engine and the coolant goes in by the top hose of the Rad into the rad first to avoid air locks! 8) If you're handy with a ratchet and spanners you should be able to do this in about 2 hours... If you've not gone this deep into the engine bay before you should still be able to do it with a bit of cursing, a few bruised knuckles and about 6 hours... :D I've no experience with the other engines in C's so I can't comment on those... Good luck! :D

Mine was running OK on the standard chip with the ported head until the crank bolt sheared off... :roll: I'd guess that a remap wouldn't hurt once you've cam'd and flow'd it as you'll need to change your fueling and timing 'cos the valves will be open at totally different times... I'd also guess that it'll still run OK on the chip you've already got, but it'd be better with the remap... I could be totally wrong on this one though!

You may also want to change the "spring" clips for jubilee clips as the spring ones can go "soggy" and allow the pipes they hold to leak... :shock: Very annoying!

The G60's benefit lots from a nice bit of porting and polishing with added gas flowing... It increases the torque nicely and puts a big grin on your face! :D Cam wise, the standard cam isn't bad on a G60 (I've been researching this myself!) Both Piper and Schrick do cams specifically for the G60... Don't go too lairy with the durations as you'll start to have problems with the charger just blowing the fuel/air mix straight out of the engine into the exhaust at higher revs with a mad cam! :shock: I know that Stealth and TSR do a bigger valve flowed head for around £600 + VAT or you could get yours flowed and polished like I did (before the engine expired!) John (16VG60) did mine for me and was really good... PM him and have a chat... You could also go a bit madder and put on a totally different head and take it up to a 16V, X-flow or if you're really brave, a 20V! :shock: :lol: Big power gains to be had there apparently... 8)

It was a JR induction filter with a custom made titanium heat shield... (my mate's an aeronautical engineer! :wink: ) The problem with the induction filter is that, unless your heatshield is mega thick and touches the bonnet with a thick rubber seal, it'll still pull in heated air from around the engine, or the metal the shield is made from will heat up and warm the air around the filter... The airbox (when modded, not drilled) and cold air feed through the C/C hole can ONLY get air from outside the engine bay where it's colder (hopefully!) Sound? with my custom made S/S exhaust system and new gas flowed/polished/ported head? AWESOME! (until the engine expired! :roll: ) It wasn't quite as loud as the induction kit, but had a nicer note to it... kinda deeper and more meaningful! A couple of people I know thought it was a V6 when I pulled up by them.... That's one hell of a compliment for a 4 cylinder engine! :D 8) The only way I can see an induction kit getting a better cold air feed than a properly modded air box/ CC hole is to remove it from the engine bay and put it somewhere else like in the inner wing etc...

Try some silly £1.25 bolt that's never been touched that's just written off my engine and brand new flowed head... I just thank god that I was only doing 20MPH in third while sat in traffic when it sheared off... 10 mins later and I'd have been doing 70 (and the rest :wink: ) on the motorway on the way home! I dread to think what damage that would have done... :shock: I do feel for you all though, it's crap when stuff like that happens...