Henny

Yeah, I've got the warning triangle out of my first C in the rear seat of my G60 and I've a fire extinguisher in the arm rest part where the first aid kit needs to be... I think that it's more important to have a fire extinguisher than anything else in the car... :? (I do have a first aid kit in the boot as well though, as well as some rolls of industrial Gaffa tape... you never know when you'll need Gaffa tape! :lol: )

Sorry, I forget that some people won't know the word "crud" :lol: Crud's another (less offensive) word for cr@p... :D The front sensors are on the hub mountings behind the wheel with the rotors (flat disk with holes in at the front) attached to the back of the rotating bit of the hubs They're pretty obvious if you jack the car up, take the wheel off and have a look behind the disk. The rears rotors are like a topless cone shaped wire cage that are attached to the back of the rear disks. The sensors are again attached to the hubs. You'll find that if you need to change the sensors, you probably won't be able to remove them without destroying them as they'll have grown in... The rear rotors are pretty easy to change (and quite cheap too!) Take the rear disk off and they just slide onto the rear of the disk and then have a cap to hold them in place. I've not had to remove the front rotors yet, so I don't know how to do them... :roll: Hope this helps. 8)

K&N don't do a panel for a G60 C... JR do though and I'm damned if I can tell the difference in both type and quality! Got rid of my induction kit and modded the air box... Better noise, cooler air into the charger (no carbon cannister!) better responsiveness... :)

I agree, sounds like a bad earth to me too... check earths in Dashboard and also check for dry joints on the circuit board on the dash. Also it's always worth replacing the battery earth strap that goes to the bodywork and then onto the gearbox end of the engine, they tend to oxidise (go green) and stop giving a nice earth.... I'd bet on a dry joint being your problem though... :? 8)

That sounds like the voice of experience! :lol: Corrado (and most early VW) ABS systems are renowned for being a bit pants in the reliablity stakes... They're normally a faulty sensor or crud in the rotors.... :? If it keeps coming on and is starting to worry you, check that there's nothing in any of the grates on the sensor rotors. Then check the resistance of the sensors by disconnecting them and putting a multimeter across the two terminals or each sensor in turn. If one sensor is a mile different from the rest, then this could be your problem... 8) My ABS light flashes on for no apparent reason every now and then, and I've checked all of the sensors and rotors and am now certain that one of my rear rotors jams every now and then causing the sensor to think the wheel is locked while I am not touching the brakes which puts the light on... :roll: I'll fix it when I've put a new engine in and can test it again! :lol:

Which engine has your C got? May help people try and help you... 8)

Classics: AC Cobra 427 Ferrari Testarossa Lambo Countach Porsche 911 Modern: Zonda Ferrari Enzo Porsche carrera roadster (that new porsche 2 seater thing... mmmm.... 8) ) Aston DB7 Nobel (I know that's 5, but the nobel is just sooooo pretty and apparently handles nicely too!)

New engine... :cry: (and all 'cos of a £1.25 bolt! see my G60wish list thread!) New front bumper Front and rear bumper respray to get rid of road rash and parking injuries... Don't want to think what else, that lot's the best part of 4.5K! :shock: :?

Which lights have died? (Dash, interior, headlights, sidelights, rears, indicators :?: ) It'll help people to try and work out what's happening... :)

Who have you been talking to??? :lol: :lol: :lol:

It would be affected if I'd forgotten where all of the lines came from and had trimmed a couple of them 'cos the ends had gone nasty :oops: :roll: I'll check 'em all when I get around to rebuilding the engine again... Gotta strip it all down first though... :( Thanks for the answer though, that's roughly what I thought it would do...

I live in Congleton, Cheshire, But I seem to spend too much of my life on the A34 and M56 or in Salford Quays Manchester at work. :roll:

Just out of interest, does anyone know what happens when this is too short? I was having some mild running problems with my G60 before the crank bolt sheared and wrote off the internals of the engine and I'm wondering if any of them were due to me removing the carbon cannister while installing the new head...

Yup used 'em heavily when I was at Uni building my 16V MKI golf... Always had good advice, friendly service and were always helpful... Prices always seemed reasonable too... I've not used 'em for a couple of years though (due to buying a house!) but I've not heard anything bad about them during that gap and I plan to start using them again for some bits and bobs... :D 8)

It's your fan run-on temp sensor... It sends a temp signal to the run-on relay so that the engine is cooled for a while after it's turned off... 8)

Or the heatshield at the bottom bend of the downpipe... Used to irritate the hell out of me until I put a big jubilee clip around it to stop it moving... :D

USOPHUNKE, You've got two problems in my opinion... 1) The caps lock on your computer is stuck on making your posts really hard to read... :twisted: :lol: :lol: 2) You've got a damaged/misplaced/ leaking vacuum hose from the throttle body to the ECU. Replace that vacuum hose and all should be well again... This is EXACTLY the problem I had with my G60 when I bought it... If you floor the throttle the car almost dies, there's no pickup and it drinks fuel. Feather the throttle you can rev almost to redline but it takes for ever to get there... The ECU relies on this vacuum hose to know what loading the engine is under to correctly fuel the engine. You may also want to check the hose that goes to the dash cluster as (IIRC) that can also cause the same problem if there's a leak as the two are connected at some point. Hope this helps. 8)

:roll: :lol: yup, that's what I meant, £26 and it's all new agian... :lol: Yup, the MK2 Driver that I'm running around in at the moment seems to have the "sticky flaps" syndrome too... (That does sound rather rude now I've typed it! :lol: )

I paid 2700 for my C last september and have easily spent 4K on her since... And I'm likely to be spending another 2.5 to 3K on an engine rebuild 'cos of a £1.25 bolt! :roll: I'm still in love with driving my G60 though and I can't wait to get her back on the road with the new and improved looks and engine! :D

Also check the thin wire that comes off your alternator... If this is damaged or has a corroded connector anywhere on it then your light will come on as you describe. (It's a thin blue wire on a G60, but I have no idea about the VR)

Wish I could make it... My C is still in pieces (and it looks like it may be for a while yet... :roll: :cry: ) and I've been "told" I am working that weekend.... That makes 6 weekends in a row that I've had to work... Think it's time to get a new job.... :lol:

Or less than a quid for the Thermal Resistor that blows when the fan brushes wear down and cause it to over heat... Get a new fan (£25 from GSF) and a Thermal Fuse from Maplins and for £26 you're laughing... I don't think that this is your problem though, I tend to agree with Kev that your flaps are stuck... :shock: (ooo-err!) Good luck anyway....

I have heard they're very good... I've got A539s all around on my C and I love 'em to bits... Wet or dry I find that they are well matched to the C's handling and performance... The ES1000s sound good and I may well bite the bullet and get a set of those next time... 8)

You just need a BIGGER lever with a BIG hammer! :lol: :roll: :lol:

Ta Darren! We've now spoken and he's given me a few pointers and ideas... Thanks to Alex as well! 8) keep the replies coming though! 8)