Henny

I can't remember what car it was for, but I remember reading about some American nutter who made a super-turbo-charger setup for his V8 while I was at Uni doing engineering... :shock: The whole idea behind it opened my eyes a bit! :shock: IIRC, it used a pressure sensitive valve and an electric clutch on the supercharger pulley. Upto about 3000RPM it was supercharged, with the turbo-boost being vented to allow it to spin up with no back pressure. After 3K (when the pressure valve decided it was time!) the valve flipped over, dumping the Super boost to atmosphere and directing the Turbo boost to the intake. The Supercharger pulley clutch was then electronically activated a little bit higher up the rev range so that it didn't spin to destruction while the engine was running on the turbo... 8) On the way back down again the supercharger was spun back up to speed just before being needed and there was an almighty dump vlave in operation after the change over valve so that all of the boost could be dumped during braking to prevent both the S/C and T/C being slammed to a halt, or burning out the brakes due to still being under boost! :shock: :lol: I remember figures in excess of 1000bhp being mentioned! :shock: Sound interesting?!? :lol:

I tend to agree... From someone who's got a clocked 'rado (-110,000 miles clocked! :shock: ) take it from me that the MFA will either work or not work when the car's been clocked badly and that the rev counter tends to be the one to suffer... I don't know why that is, but it's also true with MKII golf GTIs as well... :roll: I'd get the earths tested/changed and see if that helps, or even possibly check the wiring on it's way through the bulkhead from the engine bay... Someone mentioned that they had speedo problems 'cos one of the waterpipe springclips had nicked the wiring loom from the engine... I admit that this is a long shot, but there's so many things that it could be... My other bet would be as Dubster82 said, a dry solder joint on the circuit board on the dash clocks... there seems to be more and more people finding these on their Cs that I'm going to strip mine out and re-solder the lot just to be sure! :lol:

Have you checked the earth strap that goes from the battery to the chassis and then onto the gearbox end of the engine? These are renowned for being pants and going green (oxidising) which can cause all sorts of weird and wacky electrical faults... Just a thought... 8)

I dunno about flexible, if you used first you needed second instantly if you touched the throttle... Wheelspin in 4th was always fun outta roundabouts too! :shock: I got a 165BHP at the wheels :shock: outta mine 'cos of a few tweaks I'd done and I have no idea what the 0-60 was but it had to be in the 5 second bracket... I used to love that car, and I really should get my butt in gear and finish re-building her... She'd been off the road for 5years now and I built her in 1995/6 so while I've had her she's spent more time off the road than on it! :roll: :shock: :?

Sounds almost as good as my MKI golf 16V... Pull off (happily :shock: )in 3rd and at 20mph you can cruise in 5th! I think the 1600 gearbox that I was running in it was probably a bit too short geared! 20 -> 120+ without changing gear... Now that's my idea of relaxed! :lol: :lol:

You're crazy! :lol: Thanks! There was a Green C at Tatton that parked next to me which I really liked, but I can't remember who's it was... Basically very similar to mine but on 17"s not 16"s like mine and the lovely green met/pearl... :D

Yeah, mention: You went to VW international, You read PVW and THE GOLF CCGB Club GTI Matey-Matey Corrado Forums VW Vortex And you can save a whopping 20% in total! I know this, 'cos I did! 8) :lol:

You could get some glow in the dark paint like is used on watches for the needles but I'm sure an ex GF of mine had some glow in the dark nail varnish... 8) I'll look into that a bit further... :)

If you stick with Red notches and dump the unleaded only (I'm not bothered either way with x100 or x1000) and go easy with the CORRADO logos then I'm in for a set... :D 8)

Yup, I'm up for that as long as it's got a fuel gauge that reads F, 1/2, 1/4, E etc rather than measurements (it can be used on any C then!) and has a 6.5K redline on the speedo (which I know rules out the 16Vs, but I haven't got one of those anymore!) 8)

The 1.8 16V were all KR engine codes and were used in a whole shed load of different VWs including Golfs, Passats, Corrados, Scirrocos and probably others! It uses a K-E Jetronic fuel system which is basically the same mechanical injection system as the original Golf GTIs, but with a couple of microswitches for full throttle and idle sensing. It also had a small ECU of sorts that "adapted" (for want of a better word) the timing via the vacuum advance on the dizzy. The engines are a pretty solid lump and tend to take milage pretty well as long as they are reasonably looked after... There was only one major change in the KR series 16V engine during it's production, and that was the change of the original straight, narrow inlet manifold upper (bit wot looks like a bunch of bannanas over the head!) which, on some engines, was changed to a unit which "flared" out slightly to give a bigger interior diameter. Aparently this was to give a different torque curve and is why the Corrado 1.8 16V had a lower stated BHP than the Golf 16V GTI with the same engine, but different inlet manifold. The only real pain with them is trying to adapt them to run on unleaded as they were designed for a high octane (4star) fuel, don't have a knock sensor and the "ECU" isn't chip-able. Most people either run them on Super unleaded, or mess about with the timing slightly to stop the pinking... Some KR engines DON'T need this doing, but no-one is sure why it affects some, but not others... :shock: :? If your 16V is feeling somewhat sluggish, then someone has probably messed around with the timing to stop the pinking, or you're running it on plain old unleaded.... Put some Optimax in (you'll need a couple of tanks before you'll notice any difference) and see if that helps... If not, then get the timing checked and maybe try here again... :D Woah, that turned into an essay! :shock: Sorry! :lol: :oops: Welcome to the Forum and good luck with your C! 8)

Mike? Have I been barking up the wrong tree with what I've been saying then? As I've said from the start of this thread, I've never had, or worked on, a VR but I'm interested (ok, sad I know) in whether I was right about it being similar/the same "cooler" as the 4 cylinder cars. You've got both, so you're most likely to know! 8) :lol: 8) And yes, I am envious of you having 3 Cs! :lol: 8)

As Banana says... it should pull hard up to 140 and beyond... my standard car does and its due for a plug service and charger rebuild (@ 80k) When I first picked my G60 up she was running like a pile of poo and I still did 145 according to the speedo without realising it on my way over to Jabba to get the charger rebuilt... me: "why is everything on this road going so damn slow..." speedo: "'cos you're doing 145!" me: "oh $#!{!!!!!" Brakes: "squuuuuueeeeeeeaaalllll!!!!" :lol: :oops: :lol:

If you wanna go that low and be able to change your mind if the rides too nasty, it's time to go for the coilovers so that you can select your own ride height and ride quality! 8) :lol: :D They range from around £250 (although I wouldn't advise buying the cheapest!) upto silly money but you can get something pretty reasonable at sensible money... I've got a Supersport coilover kit on my G60 and the ride's nice (although I've only got her 30mm lower). The ride wasn't horrendous when I first put the kit on and it settled down at -80mm :shock: :lol: Worth thinking about IMHO... Although, whatever you go for, get it setup properly and you'll scare the hell outta just about anything else on the twisty bits! 8) :lol: Ker-plink! :D

Dunno on a VR6... If it's the same as the 4cylinder cars (and I think it is) you take off the oil filter and there's a 30mm (IIRC) nut on the thread above where the filter went. Remove this and the cooler then slides off the threaded center pipe. Make sure you also change the rubber ring/seal on the top of the cooler else things will get very oily in your engine bay! :roll: :lol: If this doesn't sound or look right, lemme know, as I say, I've never worked on a VR before, but I can look into some of my documentation I've got and work out how to do it if needs be... 8)

If you've already got the car apart enough to change the pipe, it's worth also changing the cooler... £20 (ish) could save you a lot more if the cooler finally does let go... :?

I've never done one on a C before, but on other VWs you have to have the key in the barrel after you've taken the clip off so that the tumblers will alow the barrel out of the old handle... 8)

:shock: I just stick with a 4 D cell mag light in the door pocket and a baseball bat under the seat... just make sure that the ball is in the glovebox and you're laughing! :lol: Don't fancy explaining the contents of your glovebox if you ever get pulled over.... A guy at work (with a very distinctive Irish accent) has a replica under his seat in his Alfa... He works on the theory that if a mad Irish bloke pulls something looking like a gun, 99.999999% of people run like $#!£ :shock: :? :lol:

Not strictly true. Castor is not strictly adjustable...although a limited amount of adjustmant can be gained within the limits of moving the front subframe around on it's mounting bolts...but this is generally fractions of a degree. Just what I've been told... I'll ask the guys who set my suspension up when I next speak to them... 8) Can I just say that I applaud you...you are one of the very scarce breed of people who actually use coilovers to improve the handling of their car first, and the looks seciond! :thumbleft: Most people just set them to look good...and never understand the improvements that can be made if they are set up professionally and corner balanced. eye thank ewe.....! :lol: :lol: I didn't see the point in dropping my C in the weeds (although it did drop 80mm when I first fitted the kit! :shock: :lol: ) when what I really want is a car that will out perform and out handle pretty much anything else about! 8) :wink: She's only about 30mm lower than standard now, but, by god, does she scare the hell out of me with the grip and handling! :wink: :lol: Sod the looks, I want it to handle like it's on rails and go like someone shoved a rocket up my ar$e!!!! 8) :D She's also quite a pretty car as well, so I'm not going to argue with that bit, as I see it as a bonus! :lol: I first noticed the difference when I went around (all the way around!) a roundabout at 60MPH+ and didn't even think about it until I noticed the passenger was white and had almost ripped the grab handle off the roof! :roll: :lol: :lol:

Yeah, that looks like it's gonna be an interesting setup... I'm keeping my eye on that one as well in case my 2L doesn't work out properly... :roll: :D Always the way! :roll: :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

It depends on the way you make the engine into a 2 litre... If you use the long block then it can turn into a giant vibrator and be NASTY... Use a sensible setup using custom pistons, a slightly overbored PG block, VW crank and conrods with a stock head gasket and you've got a killer mix of bits with 2L of fun! Things have progressed quite a lot with 2L G60s in the last few years and I know of at least 4 companies offering them now and a couple that are working on them... It's something that's going to get more common as the G60 engines are all starting to get to the stage where you need to rebuild them (mine's past that stage with 220,000miles+! :shock: ) so you may as well go whole hog and do a conversion while you are rebuilding! Always the way! :roll: :lol:

There's one BIG pump in the boot and pipes from that to each door and the boot (AFAICR they're normally rigid orange plastic pipes) The pump works both ways, ie. it creates a vacuum to lock the doors and pressurises the system to unlock them (this may be the other way around, I can't remember!) If you have a leak anywhere then the pump will run, but none of the actuators (the bits attached to the locks) will move 'cos they aren't getting the pressure/vaccuum they need to work. Check to see that the pump isn't working and that it's got power before jumping in with a new pump... :roll: :lol:

Yup, Caster and Camber are adjustable on a C. Take it to someone good to set up the suspension properly and you'll notice a major improvement on the handling if you can already see that it's wrong! 8) I got a local racing pro to corner weight my C (set all the heights on the coil-overs so that it's 25% of the weight per wheel) and do all of the geometry while he was doing it and I can safely say that it's now the best handling car I've driven... and I've driven quite a few! 8)

Mmmmmm nice... :D They look absolutely spot on... Match the carpet and paintwork too... :D I can't wait to see this car when you've finished it all off... (yeah, I know they're never really finished, but you know what I mean! :lol: ) Good work, keep at it!