Henny

Apart from making Crank pulley bolts that won't shear off and screw up your engine... And interiors that don't fall to bits too easily... And....... :roll: Sorry, just a bit miffed that my C is still in bits and is likely to stay that way for a while yet... :cry:

Wouldn't that be quite dangerous ?? Nope, it's a looped fuel system so the fuel pump will fire even when the engine's not running and all it does is recirculate the fuel from the tank through the pipework to the engine and back again down the return pipe... It does this when hot so that you don't get fuel evaporation in the lines so the car will start from hot after you've left it for a little while... 8) I wondered about it when I first found out about it too, now I'm actually quite glad there's a system fitted to keep the fuel cool in the engine bay... :) 8)

It's an american car with a German style front plate on it... 1) The plate hasn't got the two required tax marks on it (only got one) so wouldn't be allowed to be driven in Germany 2) The sign in the background is in english and is an American format sign 3) The headlights are American spec 4) The numberplate isn't correct German spec (wrong number/letter combination) 5) It's on an American site and the rear numberplate is American! http://www.hostdub.com/albums/Shinnyg60 ... .sized.jpg :roll: :lol: Sorry, I couldn't resist being a smart arse today! :lol: :twisted:

My C had a fiberglass one on it when I bought it.... I took it off 'cos it was cr@p quality... :roll: I'm pretty certain the Euro Car Parts do a plastic eyebrow for Corrados for about £30 IIRC... 8)

The offset of a wheel is the measurement the mounting face of a wheel is offset from the centre line of the overall width of the wheel. It has no relation to how the spokes on a wheel will, or will not clear a caliper inside that wheel... That's just down to the design of the wheel. In other words, it all depends on how the spokes (or whatever goes from the hub to the rim!) of the wheels curve... Think of it this way (viewed from above with wheel hub in the middle and outer face up. == is your brakedisk) |__| (Wheel with middle offset and straight spokes) |==| |\_/| (Wheel with middle offset and outwards curved spokes) |==| | _ | |/=\| (Wheel with middle offset and inward curved spokes) You can see that the bottom one, while having the same offset, would never clear a caliper when fitted, whereas the middle one would clear just about any caliper that would fit within the wheel's diameter... 8) This is a quick and nasty illustration, but I hope will get my point across... 8)

I can heartily recommend the supersport coil-overs that Venom sell... £400ish quid and a reasonable ride (if you don't drop it on the end-stops!) and seemingly good build quality... I've done about 7K miles in mine since fitting them 6 months ago and have had no problems... (with the coilovers anyway. Everything else has gone wrong, except the suspension! :roll: )

Oooh, nice crease.... :? Glad you got it all sorted out without too much expense... (Still hurts though, dunnit?!?) 8)

Nice tips Kev, wish I thought of them when I had my 16V C! Oh, and make sure you only TAP the ISV with the hammer! :roll: :lol:

I'd go with bushes on this, or possibly a dead shock (less likely from what you've said though...) Otherwise, as FurkiG60 says, could be a buckled wheel... :? Get your wheels re-balanced and checked for straightness and then have a test to see if that's cured it...

new cam belt + rattle normally means dead/dying Cam tensioner! They're about £20 new from VAG (cheaper elsewhere!) The tensioner bolts onto the side of the head (cambelt side!) and has a habbit of failing causing odd noises and sometimes breaking belts when they seize up.... :? :shock: Definately worth checking out if it's a top end noise... 8)

Keep looking! I'm around the Salford area most days (when the car's got an engine in! :roll: :lol: ) in my C... 8) I agree that it's a beautiful colour though... :D

Cheers Darren! I'll keep an eye out for if you find that number... The intercooler is a genuine Audi part from an RS, but I forget which number! :oops: It's only about £200 new and has alloy ends and internal fins for maximum cooling... Should go well with my new engine... 8) :D I used to work at a garage and, personally, I don't want a fibreglass panel anywhere near my car... :? I've seen fibreglass panels holed by flying stones kicked up by passing lorries, plastic ones never have this problem... Thanks for your reply though, I value everyone's opinions 'cos everyone's got different experiences which are all useful to know... 8)

Right, I'm now getting annoyed with these flippin' bumpers... :mad: I want a PLASTIC front bumper, NOT fibreglass... I found the one I want looks wise, and it's plastic too. It's a Reiger R-RS bumper and Venom can supply them for a good price :D BUT, they're only a half bumper... It requires you to chop the original bumper under the indicator/fogs and then bond on the new bit to the bottom of the bumper... :mad: I really don't fancy doing that 'cos the bonding always cracks on front bumpers... Does anyone know of anybody who makes/sells this style of bumper complete made out of plastic? I need to get hold of one pretty soon as I'm starting to make a move on rebuilding my car now and I'll need an RS style bumper to put the audi intercooler behind! :wink: 8)

Hey, DM, What was the outcome of this? What did you bend (other than the wheel) Hope you got it all sorted OK... 8)

Yup, Hydraulic tappets exactly the same as the MK2 GTI engines... 8) (just fitted new ones to my G60 :) )

General opinion is 16" wheels are the best compromise between out and out good looks and ride handling. Lowering wise, it depends what you want your C to do... Mine's lowered about 30/35mm and looks really good (IMHO) on it's 16" wheels... When I first put my coilovers on it "bedded in" to be -85mm and looked amazing but handled like poo... :shock: :lol: I've now got the car corner weighted (which is why I wanted the coilovers) and she handles like a supercar and looks nice too... 8) I really like your wheels that you've got though... Thought about getting similar for mine until I found some spare Borbets... :D

I seem to have killed this thread with my last comment... :roll: BUMP! :lol:

The heated washer jets only work when the rear heated screen is on. This also switches on the heaters in the door mirrors as well... 8) Did you have the rear screen heater on when you tested 'em to see if they work? Also, IIRC they aren't heaters for the water, they just de-ice the nozzles so that they'll work in the winter. I could be wrong about this bit though... :lol:

Try a Varta battery. The make some of the best batteries in the world and aren't very expensive... My mate's garage now fits these as standard instead of the Bosch silvers that he used to fit... 8)

I used to find that running my 16V on 2 tanks of standard unleaded to 1 tank of super unleaded made the car run OK and not pink, but you could really tell the difference in power when you ran her on just super... Dunno what it was like on Optimax 'cos I wrote her off before it was invented! :? I know it makes a shed load of difference in my G60 so I guess it'd be good in a 16V too! 8) It's the only thing I run my G60 on when she's got a working engine! :roll:

A guy I did my Uni course with was looking into this kind of camless engine... Apparently it's quite successful but is still more expensive to make..... Oh, and it REALLY doesn't like mobile phones too close to it... :? :shock: Valves meeting pistons time when someone phones you, not the best safety feature I can think of... :roll: :lol: The other big idea that's been floating around for AGES is to use the starter motor as the alternator... That way you only need one big, heavy, copper-coiled, motor type thing in the engine bay (technical term there, did you notice? :lol: ) It's pretty easy to do in theory, but the practicalities are proving difficult... :? The french motor manufacturers seem to be about the only people mad enough to try these weird and wacky ideas... They're about the only people working on the car "DIGITAL BUS" wiring system... 3 wires in the whole car in a ring that goes to every single piece of equipment... +VE, -VE and DATA... :? Each electrical item has a circuit associated with it with an "address" and the DATA wire has enough signal bandwidth on it to tell evey component on the car what it should be doing... The idea is that circuits are cheap and light, but Copper cable with different coloured (unless it's a peugeot with all red wires! :roll: ) insulation is expensive and heavy. A 3 wire "BUS" curcuit around the car is way cheaper to do than a loom of 200 or 300 individual wires...

I've got 16" wheels running 205/45/16 Yokohama A539s and I've no complaints at all... They look great, they stick to the road like $#!£ to a blanket and there's no more harshness than when I was running standard wheels on my old 16V 'rado a few years ago... 8) The standard alloys on a C vary in weight depending on the version of the wheel that was fitted to your car... You really aren't going to notice much difference in acceleration or braking just changing to a 16" wheel if you get a reasonable make alloy... 8) What wheel are you thinking of getting?

There's a little thermo switch on the fuel rail of the G60 which controls the fan run on time, it's got a brown/white wire on it. I don't know where it'll be on your 20VT, but if this fails then the fan will only run for the 10 seconds you mention.... My G60's fan used to only run for 10 seconds or so until I changed this thermo switch... I can't tell you how long it runs for now as the engine died the day after I changed the swtich due to a bolt shearing off... :roll: :cry:

Yeah, that's about what I was getting outta my G60 before the engine expired... (fuel was not at fault! :lol: ) I tended to get about 320 miles out of a full tank (I've got the bigger tank in my C though!)

I'm a broadcast engineer by trade and I've soldered some stuff that most people wouldn't believe could be fixed with a standard soldering iron! :lol: Surface mount solder repairs used to be a speciality of mine... As long as I can make out both ends of the thing I'm soldering, I can usually do it! Thanks for the warning though! 8)