Henny

mmmm 32mpg.... I can only dream... I really need to get some lighter shoes :lol:

I dunno about storms but on other VWs I've had, a rad top hose leak can be caused by a soggy front or rear engine mount, especially when spanking the car around... As the engine throws itself around in the engine bay while you spank it, the top hose gets yanked around and this can cause it to leak at either end... :? I had no end of problems with this in my MKI 16V and couldn't work it out for ages until the pipe finally gave up and ripped off totally! :shock: New mounts and a 16V top hose later and all was well and good with that bit... :D Shame about the rest of the car! :lol: Hope you find out what it is, problems like this really do my head in... :?

D'oh! Yeah I meant blue/white... This heat's getting to me and I'm not thinking straight... :oops: According to the VW destructions that I've got for my G60 there was the option to have a Volt gauge and an oil pressure gauge, at least on the 92 model... :D Could it be that we just found out what the blue/WHITE wire does?!? :D

spoier Yup, that all sounds right to me too... I'd love to know what the blue/black wire is for... It's probably for the optional oil pressure gauge, but does anyone know for sure?!? :)

Stoph-16v, that really does sound like oil starvation rather than a gauge fault... I'd get the oil pump looked at ASAP... Also, check which oil grade you are using as thinner oils can give this kind of problem too... Good luck! :)

Bump! Joe M this is what blatent is! (Matt, you owe me! ) Sorry Mods, I won't do it again, but I couldn't resist it! :D

I was when I realised what I'd done the next day! :roll: Thing is I didn't know I'd done it, I just got a bit close to the pillar in the garage so I stopped, reversed out and straightened her up a bit... It must have been so light a touch as it hasn't even touched the undercoat, just the pearl blue top coat! :roll: Gizza ring about Tatton, I've told work where to stick their outside broadcasts that weekend 'cos "I'm busy with my social life..." :D Went down like a lead balloon, but I'm not contracted to work weekends so #@$% 'em! :lol:

And they sell G12+ for about half what a stealer charges! 8)

Same here :crazyeyes: I tend to leave mine 'til every 7K miles and either use Quantum Silver or Vauxhall semi synthetic (which is made by Shell)... I leave it for 7K 'cos I do about 21K/year and it means I do it 3 times a year... :D

Think I'm gonna stop reading the problems section... :? I told someone about oil pressure/temp senders and oil coolers and then went and broke my oil pressure sender while having to change the cooler, I had to change my ignition switch after mentioning it in one post and now I've just had to buy a new rad fan + switch after telling someone to check theirs yesterday! :shock: Guess I'm just cursed! :lol: :roll: At least I had some useful advice on here on how to fit the parts I've had to buy though! :lol:

Check that your fan is working... Mine's just packed in :roll: and I hit 120C Water AND Oil temps this morning on the way to work... :shock: Not good.... New fan and temp switch will be fitted at lunch time! :wink: I'd say it's unlikely that BOTH an oil and a water temp sender have gone down at the same time... Probably worth changing the water temp sender just to check though as these are quite prone to going doo-lally... Whatever you do, be careful not to ignore the gauges or you could have an engine meltdown on your hands... :?

While you're doing that lot, don't forget new rear calipers and flexy (braided?) hoses all round... :) May also be worth doing new front calipers too if you can get 'em for a reasonable price... :? Just my thoughts... 8)

Yokohama A539, or if you can still find 'em 509/510s Brilliant in the dry, especially when warm... 509/510s aren't much good in the wet though, and they do tend to wear out pretty quick (although this could be 'cos people tend to start using the extra grip more! :lol: ) I've got A539s all round and they're excellent in the dry and pretty good in the wet too... The other tyres that I'd go with are the top of the range (I forget the name) Avon tyres... Seem to be VERY good and are rated AA for grip!

raypau Check to make sure your fan is switching on and running OK, also checking the sensors is a really good idea as some of the VW ones are known for failing and giving "interesting" readings... :roll:

YAY! GCSE German has finally been useful after 11 years of no use! :lol: 8)

From my german school dictionary that I happened to spot on the shelf... Seite = side or flank Schwelle = doorstep, or swelling Side-skirts would be my guess.... :?: 8)

Looks like an MX3 from the front to me... Ugh... Poor little C... :cry:

Hmmm, wonder if that's why my G60 reads about 100K less than it should?!? :roll: :? :lol: Does the milage now add back on when you drive it, or just stay at 0 whatever you do with the car? Sounds interesting, hope you find what did this...

Arrow pointing down is from your sump bung, The middle arrow points up to the rear of the sub-frame, and the right most arrow points up to the anti-roll bar. I'd guess from that that the part you describe as the "metal barrel-esqe bit under the engine" is your sump. If your sump has developed a leak, then I'd expect both of the right most arrows to be oily as this is where any leaked oil will splash onto while you are driving! :? The things that you need to check are that the sump bung (bolt in the bottom of the "barrel-esqe bit") is tight, and that whoever did the last oil change replaced the copper washer on the sump bung... A small amount of oil around these areas is nothing to be too alarmed about, especially after 200K miles like mine's got! :lol: Sounds to me like it may well be a nice simple sump bung leak...

thinksmart just out of interest, the MFA resetting thing, is this on BOTH setting 1 and 2 or just on one of them? The reason I ask is 'cos once one of the values in the MFA reaches its maximum (23:59mins or some strange milage that equals 9999km!) then it starts again at zero for all values in that setting.... If it's only on ONE of the 2 settings, then this is probably what's happening... If it's on BOTH settings at the same time, then your dashboard is loosing power from the battery/alternator which is resetting it. If this is the case, and it's resetting when the engine stops in heat, I'd check your alternator as it could be a connection in there that's breaking down with temperature, shorting out and causing a lack of electricity to the engine which is causing the stopages.... :? :?: Will the car start again after it's cooled down a bit, or do you have to bump/jump start it? If it starts as soon as it's cooled then I may well be talking rubbish as your battery hasn't gone flat which would suggest a connection fault, not a short... Hope you find out what's causing it.... let us all know if you do... :)

Hurt you?!? Try SQUISH YOU! :shock: (The middle bolt holds the sub-frame to the car! Undo it and the engine drops on you :!: ) I've not nearly done this by accident... Oh no, not me, never! :roll: :oops:

I'll be there! Dunno if I'll be showing the car though, she's looking a bit tatty at the moment, I scratched the passenger front wing putting her in the garage a week ago... :( :oops: If there's a stand for the forum, I'll put her on though... :)

Erm, why not just use the hook to pull it back through the side repeater's hole? :?: That's what I did... :) Glad I'm not the only one who's done it though... I did feel a plonker when I did it! :roll: :oops:

A Coat hanger bent into a hook saved me when I did exactly the same thing at Santa Pod... :? It's pretty easy to grab it with a hook anyway... :)

Kind of... It's illegal to have it switched on and viewable by the driver when in motion.... Most in-dash TVs have a switched live so that they won't switch the screen on when the engine is running... :? Easiest way around this is not to connect it though! :D