Henny

I tend to get between 23 and 26 MPG running around Manchester on a daily basis, on a long run I've had her up to 36.5 MPG :D and as low as 17MPG :shock: As with all cars, it all depends on how you drive them, but these seem to be pretty average figures... 8) Oh, and welcome to the Forum :D

Sounds horribly like someone is trying to do that to my C at the moment... :? In the last 3 months I've had both headlights and the grill smashed, taken the paint off the drivers wing while parking :roll: and blown the engine up twice... Is someone trying to tell me to do something to my C?!? :shock: I'm going the other route... Time to re-spray and rebuild, bigger and better than when she left the factory... 8)

I've got my g60 down to about 45 mins to do a cam belt... I'd also advise changing the crank bolt while you are stripping the lot down... Mine's just sheared off leaving my nice new flowed and ported head looking somewhat unhappy and possibly bent all 'cos of a £1.50 bolt... :cry: Ah well, I guess it's time for a 2litre, detailed, balanced, flowed, ported and "played with" engine then... :lol: 8) Bits to change when doing a cam belt on a G60/16V IMHO are: 4x allen bolts that hold the crank charger/PAS pulley on (use stainless ones!) 6x allen bolts that hold the other 2 pulleys on (waterpump and PS pump, again use stainless ones) Crank bolt :roll: Cam belt tensioner PS belt And, possibly, if you don't know it's history, Charger belt... Oh, and Cam Belt :roll: :lol: Just my thoughts... :D 8)

Rat look originated on Bikes... Tended to go something along the lines of "Get an old bike frame, bolt on a weird engine, forks, back end etc, paint matt black and ignore the oil leaks..." :lol: We did a rat look Type 2 camper when I was a mechanic that was awesome... How it ever got an MOT is beyond me! :lol: She was known as Mega-shed and had custom finishes all over such as a hammer finished door (5lb lump hammer!) and the megadeth "peace sells" logo painted on the side with the logo "type 2s sell, but who the f£$@ would buy this?!?" under it... :shock: :lol: Most of these new rat look cars are just a dodgy/roughish matt paint job with a silly big engine, no dash/interior and lots of gaffa tape! :lol:

I've said it once, so I'll say it again... Ho-hum... :roll: :lol: Well, seeing as how the engines crank shaft bolt sheared off last night on the way home, I may well be stripping the engine down to nothingness so I'll have a damn good look at this bit and see if I can work out what it's for while it's in 3,000,000,000,000 bits... :shock: :? :cry: Hummm, a fusion powered G60.... Interesting... Wonder how much that install would cost! :lol:

Ho-hum... :roll:

Drat... I had a feeling as much... :roll: I was in 3rd at the time, but I tried to start it again a couple of times after she stalled so could have done lots of damage then... :? The head's only been back on for a week and a half... :cry:

I have... None of them seem to know either! :roll: :lol: :lol: Somebody mentioned to me in conversation that it may be for extra cooling around Cylinders 1.... take away the thickness of the block and you get more interior space for cooling... I don't buy that theory myself, as it's 4 that runs hottest on most VW engines... :? 1 has the water pump right next to it so I can't see why it should need extra cooling... :?: Anymore ideas?!?

AARRGGHH!! Can my luck get any worse?!? :cry: After having the front lights and grill of my G60 smashed by a hit and run in a carpark, and then having the fan motor pack in causing the engine to overheat and take out the head gasket costing me £360 for a hire car and £1500+ in bits (inc. a flow'd and ported head! :lol: ) I have had another bit of bad luck that I need your help with... The bolt that holds the cambelt sprocket onto the crank has sheared off on the way home tonight... (see pic.) This was at 20MPH in traffic at about 1500rpm... :shock: This has resulted in the crank-charger belt pulley, crank P/S belt pulley and sprocket coming off in one lump and the cam-belt also becoming slack meaning that the crank has been turning while the cam was stationary... :shock: :? I need 2 pieces of information... 1) Does anyone know, FOR CERTAIN, if the valves on a standard G60 (PG engine) do or do not hit the pistons when a cam-belt snaps. (I really hope not, I've not yet bedded in the new flow'd head fully yet... :cry: ) 2) How the hell do you get a snapped crank bolt out of the crank?!? :( Please help... It's starting to look like this may be the end of the road for this engine's internals and I may have to spend £2K+ on building something a bit more interesting somewhat sooner than I planned :? on... :roll:

You forgot: Jubilee clips to replace the stupid VW spring clips on ALL hoses 8) :roll: :lol:

I agree, sounds like a build up of crud in the switch shorting it out enough to keep the ignition circuit live... They're easy enough to change and only cost £20 inc VAT (ish) Most stealers have 'em in stock as well... my local had 12... "no they don't break that often..." :roll: :lol: :lol:

Yup, let's see what the build quality of the Ferrari is in 8-10 years compared with a 'rado... :lol: I know of 2 year old ferrari's that have needed pretty major bodywork doing due to rot... Oh, and the old trick of the recall to coat the engines in araldite 'cos the alloy they make the block out of is so light it becomes porus after a while and lets the oil out THROUGH the block! :shock: :? gimme German engineering everyday... 8)

If you don't mind travelling a little bit, try JP exhausts in Macclesfield... Spot on quality, lifetime guarantee, quick service (if you book it in! :lol: ) and they'll tune your exhaust note to how you want it... :D I've had 3 exhausts off them now and have no complaints or problems apart from one weld which broke (probably due to a dodgy engine mount which has now been changed...) which they fixed within an hour of me mentioning it to them.... :D Their prices aren't horrendous too... £450 all in for a downpipe back full system with a choice of pipe on my G60... 8)

Just about every launch report on the C I've ever seen (including most of the posters) have featured a Tornado Red C for this country and America.... I do remember there being a Nugget in there somewhere, but, AFICR, most were red, unless they were from a tuning house... 8) It does seem that most of the early C's in the UK are Tornado Red as well... Dunno if it's just the fashion from the time or that VW made a shed load more red ones than any other colour, but that's how it's always seemed IMHO... :) Personally, I hated the nugget yellow Cs when they came out... but now I really rather like them... :D

I'll give him his due that he did offer a large amount of beer for my help, but I'm happy that I've made a difference to his C and he can get me a beer when we eventually meet up at one of the shows... 8) :D I'm just dead chuffed that it's all working now..... All I've got to do is get my own car sorted and then I'll be happy! :roll: :lol:

I've dealt with Jim Cotton for the last 8 years or so since they were up Yorkshire way before Ian Birch left to set up DubSport... He's always been spot on with his advice and has always seemed on the level and not just after a quick profit. Since they moved to just outside of Stoke, I've only dealt with them a few times, but their service has stayed as good, and now they are just outside Manchester I've bought a few things off them for my G60 and have no complaints about any of their staff, advice, knowledge or products... :D All I know is that, without his help, parts and some of his advice, my 16V MKI golf wouldn't have been on the road when it was back in '96... 8)

YAY!!! :D 8) 8)

Erm, it HenNy! :roll: If you connect the switched live on the amp to the blue wire on the head unit as you suggest, the amp will only be on when the head unit is switched on... My amp and head are wired permanently live for both ignition and +ve on the head unit as it's nice to be able to have the stereo on without having the keys in it. The amp will be controlled by the on/off button on your head unit if you connect it this way, otherwise, if you really want it on the ignition switch, it's time to dig out a multimeter and go searching for a switched ignition live... There should be one floating around in there somewhere :? as it was connected to the original head units fitted by VAG... :) Good luck... 8)

Good luck! 8) :lol: :roll:

Yup, I'd go for the Borbet C in a 7.5x16 as well... Oh, I have... :roll: :lol: The Azevs are a very close second in my book, classsy, simple, in proportion and still not too common... I'd guess that a 7.5x16 in those would be a good choice as well... :) The only problem with the Borbet C is that they've stopped making them now so finding a set is either second hand or just flipping jammy... :(

The main beam should work the same as on the Golf. Pull towards you hard to click it on, lightly to flash. Pull towards you hard again to turn the main beam off. May sound a daft question, but have you checked the bulbs and fuses? Sounds like you may be confusing main beam with dipped... :? The headlights on a C are pretty dire though... 8)

I was gonna say... 232 deg C?!? Whoa! Melted head time... That's 449.6 degrees Farenheight... :shock: :onfire: Glad that's cleared up... :lol: salinas22 What does your water temp read when it's at 232? (111Deg C) 111 isn't that high an oil temp for a G60.... I hit that regularly on my way into Manchester which is one of the wettest and coldest places in England... :roll: :? (most of the year anyway!) If you have to put water in it every 2/3 days then you've got a coolant leak somewhere and this will make your temps go higher 'cos the G60 is a pressurised system which helps keep the temps down when you use the proper G11 or G12+ coolant... Find your leak and you should be able to sort out your over heating problem.... Remember that the oil cooler on a standard (even US spec) G60 is water cooled with coolant from the normal radiator and can actually act as a heater if there's a problem with the water system... :?

If you find out how, lemme know... I could do with taking a few miles off mine! :lol: Seriously though, if anyone knows how to put miles BACK ON to a speedo (without the use of a drill or too much driving! :roll: ) I'd be interested to try and get my clocks reading the correct milage...

Is it a Laserline Flashpoint FP2056 Compact Alarm by any chance? Just Google'd for "laserline" + "flashpoint" and it looks like it's the range name for a series of theirs... :D Give 'em a yell in the morning, they're a pretty well known company (been going about 15 years IIRC) and I'd guess they'll be pretty helpful... 8)

try http://www.laserlinedirect.com/index.asp :D Remember, Google is your friend! :lol: