Henny

yup, you need someone who knows the K-Jetronic fuel injection system like the back of their hand (hence my comment about Stealth) as this will need setting up properly by adjusting the warm up regulator and fuel pressure regulators... not many garages know how to do this properly as it's kind of an old school tuning method that most newer garages/specialists in newer cars won't have the experiance to do... 8)

about a 10 minute job mate... 8) Unclip the retaining clip from the throttle body and disconnect the cable (open the throttle slightly by hand and it'll go slack) Go under the dash with a torch and you'll see a brassy coloured hook which goes through a rubber grommet in the back of the throttle pedal... unhook the cable and replace the grommet (probably the hardest part of the job which will almost certainly make you swear the most!) Pull the cable back into the scuttle area and then out of the engine bay (I can't remember off hand which way it feeds through the firewall, but it's pretty obvious which way it comes out/goes back in 'cos it'll only fit one way due to the seals/grommets on it... 8) ) Refitting is the reversal of removal... 8) [/haynes] Good luck!

pretty much identical list to the valver one I wrote yesterday... Oh, except you only need 8 tappets :lol: and the head gasket set is a bit more expensive... ;) Have a word with G-Man about his 1900 conversion pistons which are simply an 83mm overbore using standard G60 bottom end parts... should make around 1873cc If I Remember Correctly which will give a nice hike in torque without screwing up the rev-ability of the G60 engine like some of the 2litre conversions do by using too long a throw on the crank... :| G60s REALLY benefit from bottom end lightening (inc. flywheel) and balancing... makes the engine sooooo smooth and the power delivery is sublime for a 4 pot engine... 8) Gas flowing the whole of the inlet/exhaust tract will give you some healthy power gains too... 8)

make sure you buy the rubber O ring that the cable clips into on the pedal's lever... they go soggy after a while which can stop you getting full throttle and can also allow the cable to drop out leaving you with a pedal on the floor and no throttle! :|

sounds like you need a trip down to Stealth for a rolling road tune up to get it spot on... ;) They'll sort you out properly and know their way around a Valver engine more than pretty much anyone else in the country I can think of... 8)

always a good idea on a G60... make sure that the one from the ECU to the throttle body is EXACTLY 1meter long and 3mm internal diameter else the ECU won't know what the engine is doing properly and will run like a sack of cack...

disconnect the lambda sensor and take the car for a run... if it's no worse, then it's worth getting someone with a multimeter and some know how to check that the sensor is working properly...

fitting a dump valve to a G60 makes it sound like a wet fart... you need a boost return deletion kit which removes the boost return hose, blanks off the right side inlet on the charger, puts a catch can on the oil breather and a small filter onto the ISV... 8)

you need a press to put in the valve guides and a specialist tool for putting in new seats and cutting them properly with 3 lips... There's no point in just putting new seals in, as if the guides have any wear in 'em they'll just leak after a few K miles... CNC head on a Valver would be interesting... ;) Go-on, you know you want to! :twisted: :lol:

sorry, didn't go home last night, will dig 'em out tonight or at the weekend 'cos I'm off to Paris/Eurodisney with work tomorrow... 8)

wonder what it'd look like on OSV's car with a set of the angel eyes lights? :? hummmm, then again, maybe not! :lol:

8) Set should be on their way to me shortly... 8)

OK, Check for boost leaks and check the vacuum hoses for leaks and damage too. Start the car from cold with the bonnet open and then disconnect the blue temp sender connector... if the engine doesn't change how it's running as you disconnect it, then replace the BTS 'cos it's dead... Could also be the Lambda probe... check that it's connected (connector block on the rear engine mount - rear left of the engine bay down low) and that the wires appear to be in good condition... disconnect it and see if there's any difference when driving - if not, it could well be dead. Welcome to The Forum by the way... 8)

GazzaG60, you sure? I thought the crank end bearing was a complete ring, not a pair of half shells... :| Live and learn, it's a while since I took a crank out... :|

Audi make cars where the indicators work... 'nuff said... ;) of course, what Chris said above is good too... :lol: Initial cost/spec, residual value, servicing costs, cost per mile, theft/vandalism targetness (is that a real word?!?) etc as well as image (dare to be different - or was that SAAB?!?) have all gotta feature in there somewhere... Good luck!

Cool... good to know for any future f*** ups I make... :lol: 8)

plastic water pipes and oil pump I'd go genuine, everything else you'll be fine with GSF/ECP parts... 8) Price wise? Dunno, never rebuilt a 2.0 valver... :|

^^^ twice.... :roll: :twisted:

Lippy, OI! Have you been spying on what I'm doing to H-YYU for the boost gauge?!?

okay then... To do the crank bearings you need to remove the engine from the car as the bearing at the end is a complete O rather than 2 half shells... If you're removing the engine, it's time to do the clutch too... so; Engine out Basics: Head rebuild including new seals, seats and guides Get the block hohned out by an engineering shop, odds are the place that rebuilds your head will be able to do it for you... get 'em to check the state of the bores while you're at it to see if it needs a rebore or not. Clutch kit Piston rings (the pistons themselves will be fine as long as the bores aren't damaged) Head bolts Head gasket set Full engine gasket set Crank bearings Big end bearings Paint (well, you gotta make it look pretty! ;) ) Waterpump Oil pump Dizzy Cam followers (this'll hurt 'cos there's 16 of 'em! :( ) Plastic water system parts (they're not expensive and you may as well change 'em!) Engine mounts (all 3 of 'em - may as well while it's not in there!) Wash the pistons in your dishwasher (don't laugh, it makes a big difference!) and then attack with one of those green pan scourers to get 'em spotless... Make sure EVERYTHING is spotlessly clean before putting it back together again... 8) Optional: Crank lightening Flywheel lightening Bottom end balancing Overbore with new pistons to take it to 2.1! :twisted: :lol: Dremmel and sandpaper for porting out and polishing the inlet and exhaust manifolds and the throttle body... Bigger valved head?

Are you going to remove the engine from the car or rebuild it in place?

got these on BOTH of my Corrados... 8) I'll dig out the part numbers from them tonight as both cars interiors are currently in my living room (don't ask... :oops: )

oil pressure is a MUST for any tuned engine... can potentially save you thousands of pounds if something bad happens by simply letting you know there's something not quite right that little bit earlier... EGT temp's all good and well if you're running a SERIOUS turbo, but otherwise is a little bit of a gimmick, unless you've got all the turbo electronic/computer based control stuff going in too...

9) finding one and then finding out it's been clocked in a LARGE styleee... :(

Cool! Glad they arrived safe and well... they look spot on... when she's lowered she'll be even better... 8)