smee

I do, and I'm in Chester. Presume you're after late doorcard versions in black if it's for a blue storm?

Sounds ideal, give me a yell when it's available...

Anyone got a radiator for a VR6? Condition doesn't have to be great so long as it doesn't p*ss coolant all over the road like mine does...

Can I just say, holy thread resurrection!

Hi, I'll definitely take the front wiper mechanism please!

Hi, is the wiper mechanism the front one?

Same here. There's one on both sides of the car, they're used by the electric window relays (drivers side) and heated seat relays (pass side if you have them). No problem getting a 0 gauge cable through to them either.

+1 for the 3 spoke BBS wheel.

Not sure, but mk3 polo will, and probably B3 passat too.

Yeah, I put some rubber hose over the door pin rods where they pass through the metal of the door to stop them rattling!

Blank on all early cars without optional extras (heated seats, aircon, headlamp levellers etc.) One of the original blanks would have had a bit of writing on to remind you to use unleaded fuel! Later ('92 on) cars had one of the spaces filled by the ABS warning light. So don't worry, just get yourself some blanks!

Another recommendation for the loom from me - It takes the lights from "Are they on??" to "Ooooh - I can see where I'm going!". It will also help prolong the life of the headlight switch and thus make a fire a bit less likely. The standard wiring sends the power from the battery through the switch and off to the lights, so by the time it gets to the bulbs the voltage has dropped and the lights are dim, plus the full current draw passes through the switch, generating heat which gradually makes the switch go brittle inside until it breaks. If you're lucky, your lights stop working. If you're unlucky the switch shorts out inside and fire can ensue!! The upgraded looms add a couple of relays, so the switch is only switching the relays on, thus the current passing through the switch is less - less heat - less damage to the plastic. The relays are handling the current draw of the lights themselves, and since they're next to the battery, the cable run to the lights is much shorter - less voltage drop - brighter lights. 2 Top Tips: 1) When you get the loom, either try and get waterproof relays, or get a waterproof case from Maplins or suchlike and mount the relays inside. Otherwise water WILL get into the relays, and they WILL stop working, usually when you need your headlights the most... 2) The headlight switch from a mk2 Golf will fit and work, it just looks bobbins (and doesn't light up IIRC) so get yourself one as a spare - there are gazillions of them so they're easy to find.

I'd suggest either a Becker or Nakamichi headunit, they look very OEM, good sound quality too. I've had a Nak for years though their reputation for reliability is a bit patchy.

Hi, I'll take the VR6 HT leads please.

Or a Nakamichi if you're ok with second hand. I've had the same Nak CD400 for the last few years, despite their slightly flaky reputation for reliability. Green illumination which matches the Corrado's, too!

Big thanks to Vicki (voo51) and Paul (hombre_paulo) for wings and header tank respectively!

Hi, I'd like to buy the mk4 expansion tank please. Cheers!

Bump for renewed search... not fussed about windscreen...still need wings!

Thanks to a neighbour I now need a new drivers wing for my 95 VR6. As the n/s wing is pretty ropey anyway, I'm also after one, but it's the o/s that's the priority. Ideally be free of filler, repairs or rust (as far as possible). As this is going to necessitate a trip to the bodyshop the colour isn't important. I'm in Chester, so the closer to the North-west, the easier it'll be for collection...

Doesn't sound standard, haven't seen anything like that on either of my C's, could be an antenna for an old alarm system or tracker?

Deffo Italvolanti. I might have a spare one though - I'll have a look.

The curse of the corrado's not quite ISO radio wiring strikes again... 90's dubs have the switched and permanent live wires swapped over in the ISO plug in relation to the ISO standard. This means if you plug in a normal head unit, it'll lose it's memory when you turn off the ignition. To remedy this, the right thing to do is either fit an adaptor cable or swap the pins over in the ISO connector. Some HU's have connectors in-line on their loom to allow you to swap these on the radio rather than in the car, IIRC the alpine probably does? I had a ida-X200 in a mk3 polo which had no switched live on the radio loom (poverty spec) thus the radio was permanently live..."no problem" I thought, turning it off on the front panel will do the same...wrong! Same as you've described, flat battery in a couple of days. I had to put in a switch (a spare corrado demister switch if anyone's interested) to kill the switched power to the HU. Looks like the previous owner got round the swapped wires issue by joining the switched and permanent lives - I'd put it back to standard, swap the lives on the alpine loom and you should be sorted.

As rado2 said, rears are 6x4", though you'll probably have to take a dremel/hacksaw/pointy stick to the parcel shelf supports to get replacements in as the original ones have tiny little magnets compared to anything else. Fronts are 5.25" and mount from behind (so you have to take the doorcard off to get at them) and the factory tweeter locations are ideal for mounting replacement tweets in. Take an appropriate sized holesaw to the originals and you can mount the tweeter in there, hidden by the factory grille. The only other brand I'd suggest is JBL - if budget is tight, you can't go wrong with their entry level speakers.

Just sort the base - think late cars don't even have the boosted aerial base, so even VW realised they were cr@p.

Nope. 1 big plug, no vacuum sensor either. Don't think any VR clocks have the vac sensor.