PhillT

Thanks mate, yep, KR's still going in the Mk1, but probably won't be until the winter realistically Couple of pics from GTI Festival on sunday

Time for an update, although not exactly eventful Test fitting the engine + box being an AEB lump I've put a Mk4 exhaust manifold on to shift to turbo but need to make some adjustments so the turbo will clear the bulkhead a local garage is going to weld up the inlet manifold for me when it comes to it, I'm not a fan of welding aluminum so thought I'd get someone else to do it got a list of parts to swap over from the 16v - sump + oil pick up, oil filter/cooler housing (both will be tapped for the turbo oil feed) and thinking about running the 16v alternator/power steering setup as it's convenient instead of sourcing a Mk4 bracket for now and all just bolts straight on hopefully have more updates soon

Thanks guys just waiting on the engine to arrive so I can test fit it and measure up the downpipe etc If I get time this weekend I'll make a start sorting the mess out which is the battery tray

Been away from C's for a while, but last week I picked up a 1990 red corrado with a pretty messy installed 1.8 16v KR lump.. the plan was to strip it and sell everything but the engine (as that's going in my Mk1) after driving it home in the rain without working wipers, a blowing exhaust and many other little niggles I've decided I want a rado back in my life... but as this is the forth I've had now, I'm venturing away from standard so a 20vT lump should be delivered this week never done an engine swap before! so it's going to be fun and games anyway, onto the pictures picked it up last wednesday.. looked pretty clean from the ebay pic back home, it's going to need a respray after the engines installed as it's peeling in places with a little surface rust here and there, nothing major though Straight onto axle stands! time to start stripping it down Battery tray has been horrifically repaired before! unfortunately, as I didn't pay much attention to the car itself, I didn't notice this! so I'm on the hunt for someone stripping a shell to hopefully get a replacement section! after a casual day of unbolting everything then started to clean the bay up.. and that's how it sits at the moment I'm planning... battery install in the boot, smooth and clean inner wings, paint the gearbox and block red (might look rubbish but thought I'd try it out), and everything else silver, going to make my own exhaust and intercooler pipework as well watch this space for updates :D but I'm as happy as a pig in.... thanks for looking guys, and I'll apologize for the bombardment of questions that I'm sure I'll be posting

thanks very much mate! Perfect :notworthy:

Hi guys, I've been searching and came up with squat :( I'm after a complete wiring diagram for a 1990 16v (KR), can anybody help? if you've got one in PDF format that would make my year! Email if needed is PhillT1 (at) hotmail.com Ta Phill

Could be the valve stem oil seals in the head, what's the milage and has it had any top end work? maybe the head gasket leaking oil into the bores which is getting burnt or worst case it could be the piston rings letting oil past I'd guess it'll be the first if the charger's in good shape

8) I've been waiting patiently for months for this to come out! really looking forward to blasting round the ring in a VR :D

Ah that's great thanks :thumb right: local halfords does NGK plugs so will pop in there with the part numbers, ideally want them changed today but I've bookmarked that link for next time so not only would VW overcharge me (no suprise there really) but they'd also supply the wrong parts tut tut.. still, gonna be better than F*rd dealerships :lol:

:oops: sorry if this has already been covered but I've searched and came up with nothing going to give the VR a good service today (bar the HT leads as they're not here yet :mad2: which is the one thing it desperately needs!) anyway, phoned VW for the parts.. they want £9+ each for spark plugs, which IMHO is complete madness but I'd rather get the good/right stuff than cheap stuff that'll give up a week down the line can anyone recommend what the best plugs are for VR6's? recall reading somewhere that the 4-core bosch ones are not good for the engine (or words to that effect) which is annoying as I always go for these thanks for your help guys

I tried last year with Footman and james and my old G reg was still not at classic status :(

I'm spitting distance away but don't yet have a 2x2 connector yet :( so not much help..... which makes this post pretty pointless But If I can get some sort of wiring diagram for the 16pin - 2x2 cable I could probably get something made up in no time at all!

yeah but who want's to do that? :D nice looking bargain you've brought yourself there! ref the spoiler, if you can hear the motor going a simple strip down and grease up might do the trick :thumbleft:

Not done bearings on a C before, but 99% sure they're all pressed into the hub (front's definately are), so you'd need to get someone with the right tools to press the old ones and and the news ones in for you I've heard people freezing the bearing and heating the hub, and knocking the bearing in with a hammer before! but wouldn't like to do that myself

I've done 500+ miles with one rumbling in a F*rd but only managed about 150 miles in my Mk1 until the whole thing disintergrated at 70Mph! scared the living daylights out of me when the car wobbled all over the place almost completely out of control! plus I then needed a new stub axle so on that note, I'd say get it done as soon as you can! noisey bearings will create more heat which is only a bad thing for the hub etc..

Kind of related.. when I plug VAG-COM in, then start the car, it does the exact same thing fires, runs for a second, then says 'nah, not today sir' and the error is Engine start blocked by immobiliser!so the orical that appears to be cheesewire is going to be right :lol:

:thumbleft: Excellent link there, looks like a good supplier I know where I'll be getting my rebuild parts when the time comes!tempted to buy now as pound-dollars exchange rate is so good at the moment

I'll be needing one of those please :D let me know details on payment etc. and I'll fire some funds over

fair point :oops: tisn't nice bluester, will you be putting sideskirts or any other body mods on so the bumper goes with more of the car?

sorry! couldn't resist it any longer

think it'll look better when it's sprayed, won't be to many peoples tastes don't take this the wrong way but as it is now it reminds me of the stoned scream mask out of Scarey Movie :lol:

thought it was about time I updated this thread! since finding out that C was a Cat B I've started stripping it down to scrap, and got myself another one 8) which I've been driving the past month or so so nice to drive!! had a few bits and bob's to sort on this one to use every day 1.8 16v.. some of you might have seen it advertised on here :wink: 2 new tyres New engine mounts New CV Joints (outer) replacement Ignition amplifier (TCI unit) full service (timing chain to be done) here's some pics (hope they're not too big?) and recently after a good wash/polish/wax plans for this are full respray in the original Helious blue (lovely colour), use the subframes + brakes from the G60 when cleaned and fully poly bushed, set of coilovers, new wheels put the 8v turbo engine in (might use the 16v for my Mk1) and a few subtle mods to the body to bring it out of the 90's styling thanks for looking

that's what I thought best check the switch/wiring as the fronts only come on with the rears (second position on the switch)

thought I'd bring this one back up to the top as I'm in the same situation but would have thought since the fog light switch has 2 positions you'd be able to control the front and rear fogs independantly?

I'd start spraying the exhaust manifold - head bolts now if your planning on doing it yourself, fairly straight forward job worth replacing the timing belt + chain and timing belt tensioner while your there has it lost any water/oil? on a side note, my 16v smokes just like that for the first 5-10 minutes on warm up