nocrap

Had the same problem on mine with the.....urmmmmm.....bugger...my brains gone.....the one on the bottom of the engine anyway! Spent a whole day trying to get it off, whacked it with a mallet, levered it with a screwdriver and everything. Soaked it in some 3in1 releasing fluid overnight tried the following day and it came straight of with 2 hits with a hammer!

8. Timing belt tensioner 45nm (33ft-lb) should only be for the stud thats the same width on both ends 25nm (20ish ft-lb) For the stud that is wider at one end...

Just sprayed and fitted mine and can 100% confirm that you do not need to worry about your bulbs at all!

Could well be wrong but i would have thought that the dark tint spray is essentially just making the colour darker....you'll just need the standard bulbs.

mills as in amps.........therefore it must be something else that cramps............hummmmmmmm cant remember, never mind. All i can say is that this thread is shocking :wink:

G-Werks.

You can, but only proper performance exhaust places seem to know how to do it properly! to simply stop it knocking you need a bosal specific mount for a austin metro.... it looks like a mushroom with a thread on it to attach it to where the original one came off.

When i asked a few months ago i was told £45+VAT per hour. But like Supercharged said phone them up or drop them an e-mail!

Glad to see another Magnex exhaust as poorly fitted as mine!

Very handy indeed...Could this be stickified?

Nope no point in swapping the engine as a whole, due to the whole Cat' thing the 9a's no faster than the KR! If your after serious power gains with a valver you need to start with some serious money

Not that much you can do do really......a bit of info here http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/16v_Tuning_Guide Search is your friend..also the club gti forum will be good for the KR engine

Volts jolts, amps cramps and mills kill!

Well done guys! I hope your keeping a picture diary of this!

Does the engine just die then? as if it's being turned off? or just splutter and then stop?

It appears that you're correct Jonnyboyo! Off topic slightly, but interesting none the less!!

Could well be the infamous ignition switch problem....have a look at a few of the past threads about that on here.

I usually just say i'm cleaning the car.......as far as I'm concerned detailing on a car would mean something like blacking plastics, ya know...sorting out the details..

I just use the shaken up cola bottle theory......open turn slightly until some pressure is released, then close then open slightly again. repeat until all pressure is released.

i dont think so as you would lose out on then amps and it is those 'mills that make the difference'.

as have i....perhaps something like a knock sensor has gone funny.....

nothing else...just that sensor being knackered

No worries matey , just happy to be of help

Nah, you wouldn't want it earthed would you as all the energy would be going down that rather than to the plugs...

My way........ 1.Remove tank or New tank cap 2. Disconnect bottom rad' hose 3. Allow to drain into a big tray/dish 4. Wiggle pipes to remove any remaining water 5. Reconnect all 6. Fill with G12+ coolant mix 7. Squeeze coolant pipes 8. Top up expansion if required 9. Start engine with cap still off tank 10. Squeeze coolant pipes again 11. Just before coolant begins to boil over replace cap (Warning! Coolant will now be in excess of 100*c) 12. Turn off ignition 13. Release pressure in expansion tank (again with caution) 14. Give the coolant pipes another good squeeze just to be sure (these will also be bloody hot) 15. Top up if required! Also if your mix of coolant to water is correct you should now have almost exactly the right amount of coolant left in the G12+ bottle to mix with water and carry with you just in case! I've done this twice now and haven't had any issues at all!