Geeba

Had a measure up at the weekend... I'm not sure what gaskets he's using bit the MLS is incredibly thin... just by looking at it you can see and then feel how thin it is. First the new fibre gasket then the MLS These are both Elring gaskets, unused and un-crushed, but I understand after crushing the MLS is 0.6mm and the fibre will be 1.6mm so 1mm of difference... that's pretty substantial. there's absolutely no way the difference in thickness is 0.05mm as the fella had used in his calculations. With the block being decked I was concerned about the squish hitting the head the MLS really is that thin. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Always been a bit miffed with payment to join a forum... I'll happily click sponsors and on several occasions have made donations, I even donated an xbox to the XBMC project many years ago... 10 quid to join... errrr no thanks.

Hiya Dox Yeah I did have a read through these... but when I speak to tuners and engine builders they say it does have an impact... so I was bit torn on what to do.. With the block decked and the 10.5 ratio pistons I was hoping to get to almost 11.0 with the extra from the block shave and MSL gasket... Hmmmmmm decision... :s

Cheers Mike... sounds like you're forced induction thou? Yeah I might give Vince a call... last time I spoke to him I hadn't got the pistons...

Cheers Cressa ;) Its really starting to take shape now... really pleased with it, should be a good example with my level of OCD once done, everything will ether be new or re I'll get an update in my build thread as soon as I can - I've taken loads of pictures but Photobucket knocked the wind out of my sails and I find tapatalk a bit of a drag.

Hmmmm am I pushing it here.... Block has been decked... cylinder head has been skimmed - both only to clean them up for the MK4 MLS head gasket I had intended to use... But the VR as far as I understand runs a negative deck... ie the pistons raise above the block and the quench pads rely on the head gasket to avoid a coming together with the head... this combined with SM 263 cams... hmmmm am I pushing my luck? The new pistons are 10.5:1 - anyone else been done this path?

How many row oil cooler for a VR6? - I thought they got a bit cold with oil coolers?

Morning Yes its coming along now, block has been decked, bored, cleaned and painted, crank, rods and flywheel have all been balanced.. all the aluminum parts and the gearbox casings have gone off for aqua-blasting, should look like new ;) Engine bay is painted and I've started re-wrapping the loom... got more stuff heading to the powder coaters... hope to have the front end back on the ground soon.. once all the new suspension turns up ;) Then I'll start on the back end.

Need to get an update done on my build thread.. done loads.. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Sorted! 10.5:1 Wiseco.

Morning all, Sorry for the delay - work don't seem to appreciate I have an engine and car build going on! :D The reason for the forged pistons is whilst I was doing an auto to manual conversion I decided to give the engine a once over... when I say once over it's turned into a full rebuild. The block went off for a hone, rings, full balance etc. but on inspection there was a little wear on a couple of the bores so the decision was made to use 82.5mm Mahle items as I knew there were little gains in huge costing overbores... The mahle items were then discovered to be on back order at the manufactures... 6 weeks... bear in mind this was the end of July.. or they could source Wiseco's in three days and only a few quid extra... ok cool. Then the Wisco's were only available in 83mm... ok cool bore it to that. All good.... no The Wiseco's turned up as 9.0:1 - we're at the second week in October by now... ok order up the 10.0:1's - cool... errr no they turned up again as 9.0:1's So now I'm a little bit miffed as they seem to be struggling to find pistons... and if I'd know we were going 83mm in the first place I'd of gone the whole hog and had 83.5's and had a 3.0l block. So I'm trying to find something the machine shop can source that are suitable... I was just wondering if there was any that were a complete "no-no" in the VR lump really. Yeah Kev is a wealth of information, I've been annoying him on PM's for ages now! LOL! ;) I've also read that forged pistons can slap and clatter - I was trying to keep the car reasonably OE+ so was a little worried on that front, but relived to know others are running them with no issues.

Anyone running forged pistons in their VR? Just curious on experience with them? Piston slap? Clatter? What brand? Etc.

The Halfords medium is keeping my car nice a dry outside whilst I rebuild all the running gear in the garage ;)

I went for the GKN parts at German and Swedish... used one of Dox's weekend codes as they're pretty expensive. Pretty sure these will be, or as close as you'll get to OE parts. https://www.gsfcarparts.com/439vg0210 (VR6) I also bought the inner GKN boot kit from Euro car Parts Stripped the driveshafts - repainted with Eastwood Chassis Black paint which is the dogs dangles... repacked the inners with grease and new boots/gaskets etc. completely new outers... Obviously not fitted yet as my engine is still in bits but look like new. ;)

Cheers Tan, nice to meet you on Saturday. Wheels are fantastic - looking forward to getting my car back together so I can get them on. Very nice Corrado you have there as well ;)

Would a Bentley Manual help?

Morning mate - yep I was thinking exactly that ;) I pretty much need wheels and tyres so this could do two birds with one stone.

yes please You have PM

What offset are they?

VW Heritage Euro Car Part Stealth Loadsa companies stock them.....

No worries... drop me a line if you get stuck... but it's definitely a sunroof out job... I did also look at the Passat option, problem is they're pretty thin on the ground as well now and every breakers I called said they hadn't seen one in years.. thankfully MZpog came to the rescue with a broken mechanism that had just the right still functional parts on it to enable me to build one working one. Once you get it out and start winding it backwards and forwards by hand you'll see the problem.. remove the sunroof panel so you can get a good look at it.. buy a tube of silicone grease too ;) I wont lie and say its easy.. its not, it's a propa crap job, but allow plenty of time and a clear head and you'll be fine. Watch out for the people that will message you saying they've just removed a fully working roof from a breakers yard in Germany, could be genuine but I wasn't going to risk the £400 he asked for it....

They are repairable... if its not already broken don't force it, whip it out, headlining down and about 10 bolts, easy. Take a look at the part where the cable connects and see if its snapped, if it hasn't it will more than likely be the hammers dropping to low into a small cut in the frame that stops the thing sliding back into place... replace the small rubber bands on the end of the hammers with a suitable o-ring or similar.. then a small slither of plastic to stop the hammers dropping so low and locking... I spent ages pulling sunroofs apart but stoooopid photobucket removed all my pictures :(

Cheers Dox - did myself a nice £420 order for £186 ;) Then collected my rather expensive cylinder head... expensive day Corrado wise :( - thankfully the block isn't ready yet.

Let me know if you want to let the carriers go.

I'd be interested in the 312 carriers if you can post? - I dont need the calipers as I have 288's waiting to go on and I'm sure the caliper is the same.