dubcharger

where do you get the sticky strips from to put them back on again??

yup, not blowing boost straight out of the exhaust at high revs and 10.8mm lift its ideal, have you not tried it in a NA engine flusted?

I'd love to know this too, only information i can find on it, on this site and on the internet is it being used in a turbo setup, why has it not been tried in a NA setup, has someone tried it? What did you find? Perhaps because their duration is less but the opening is more (someone correct me if im wrong) it would require more air flow.i.e. forced induction? to take advantage of this hence why they're only used on forced induction cars? Someone tell me if im talking complete balls lol I doubt you would see any more power or torque over the kr cam but it should shift the torque down the rev range making it a bit more economical and better to drive, you are right about the duration and lift, having no overlap with the exhaust cam its cat friendly aswell I cant see why it wouldnt work though .. surely some one must have tried it...I'm going to be useing my car everyday soon I need economy, i'll try an abf or the 9a cam is going back in my car :hitler:

Apparently very late 9a have the same head (051103373D/E)with raised centre section and same 10.8 mm exhaust cam as the abf,abf inlet cam should have better low-mid range the torque than kr , has anyone tried an abf inlet cam in their NA 9a??

If the previous owner did the headgasket and not had the head skimmed that could be the reason its gone again especially if it overheated it could be distorted

I bet the difference is something to do with the cat+emissions ,I got Beru plugs from avs car parts @£1.49 each my car seems happy with them, there wasnt much wrong with the bosch super3s they replaced after 22k though

just the inlet

I fitted it after the the cam, the power curve stayed more or less the same its just more responsive, I tried it with , 97 and Tesco 99 octane petrol but seems to run better with 95, I also ftted a windage tray which seems to help at high revs but the cat is still on so I guess that will be restricting it a bit at the top end.

Iv not had it on the rollers, but it made a nice difference the mpg was a bit better aswell

Chris I would put the snorkel back and seal up the holes with silicone, it will run worse like that and you will loose torque,buy an ecu chip from powerchips on ebay, the best £30 you will spend when combined with your kr inlet cam

Hi Anyone in North Yorks area? I'm about replace abs control unit, hopfully that should cure the light not going off but will need a reset i think and mot due sooooon

I fitted a windage tray to my engine at the weekend and found the original gasket to be nearly twice as thick as the one on the windage tray, I also noticed the oil bottom of the oil pick up is a slightly different shape to the older round ones... the sump and tray fitted back on fine and theres no buzzer or flashing oil lights coming on but I was wondering if the oil pick up is ok sitting approx 2mm? closer to the bottom of the sump... how much clearance is there to begin with?

His vr clearly doesnt :wink:

This is a nice idea ... if you have a thermostat that opens about 7 degrees cooler than standard. Otherwise the fan will just be on and off all day long...! I opted for the Neuspeed thermo switch but kept the stock thermostat because I thought teh engine might run a bit too cold in everyday driving unless youre hammering it around a track all day of coarse, my fan used to kick in at 100-105 degrees which is when I feel the matrix might think about exploding, now it kicks in at approx 95 degrees but it rarely gets to that temp anyway unless your driving really slow or stuck in traffic on a hot day :wink:

the Neuspeed thermo switch is quite handy, the fan will kick in a nice 7 or so degrees early 8)

The oil is at correct viscosity at around 100 degrees

Flow aside, the stock mani being cast it actually draws the gas out of the alloy head as it holds the heat better than s/steel, get a new one and port it 8)

My standard 9a, ke-Motronic with kr cam,inlet mani honed out to 43.5mm,ecu chip, modded inlet resonator is making 172ps, Davidwort on here has a 6a bottom end on k-jet with wur mod and flowed head is making 180ps, it is difficult getting more torque out of a NA 16v though

You might be able to get teh stem seals replaced with the head in situ, if the guides are worn the new seals wont last that long, better to get the whole head redone ... it would deffinatly be worth a touch of porting/polishing

A bit off topic but I went to a John Deere factory and when they finish overhauling engine they put it on a dyno at full revs and load the engine via the pto shaft and drag the revs down to about half until the engine is working so hard its smoking like hell, then go off for an hour have a cup of tea,when they come back they check for oil leaks then the engine is signed of as perfect and ready for work :lol: 8)

it wont flow quite as much but there is only one cylinder sucking air in at a time,unless you have wild cams in there that start opening the valves at all types of angles :lol:

If u have the timing advanced correctly for the fuel you're using, k-jet and ke-Motronic sound and go pretty well too :wink:

They dont like to be revved???? As old a design it may be the valver is vw's true racing engine, with under piston cooling jets and sodium filled exhaust valves it is very advanced even today :wink:. Put a decent turbo on that thing and it will own all of you :twisted:

...m8 try whacking a smaller socket onto the nut like a 16mm or an imperial size one, it will take some hammering on but if you have enough room underneath the car to swing the hammer you should be able to do it with two long extension bars connected to the socket..failing that iv managed to get exhaust manifold nuts off before with a decent set of small mole grips with grinded down jaws to get access to the nuts on the underside of the mani ... good luck

on my 95' valver it raises at 55,goes down at 5mph ish