DanVW

I know the Lamda is ignored at WOT as thats balls to the wall map setting :lol: but I would guess that it still takes the air temp reading to adjust the timing. Try a search on COpot AND WOT :)

Cant test mine at the moment as am in work, I know the last time I check it was 14.2v am sure the alt voltage should be 14+ volts with engine running or the ECU has problems. I also have a bit of a flat spot at 5500rpm but only very quickly its gone by 5800rpm just causes a slight hesatation when flooring it, most odd :-(

Bugger :-( my money is still on pre-ignition though, just because it doesnt start till the engine is hot and the manifold pressure rocketing when she misfires. Know this doesnt really help you but I would be looking at picking up another G60 block and head for a swap as its off the road at the moment anyway, as on the bright side if it solves the problem great 8) if not you can always flog the engine on and you hae not lost any money on it just time and effort. Easy for me to say though I know how much time effort and money you have thrown at this problem already!

I guess the quick way to discount pre-ignition would be if it does it from cold? Also what about the FPR? have you replaced it or tried a known good one from a working G60? Wish I was a bit closer mate bet we could find it in a weekend of part swapping :-(

If you are seeing +ve pressure in the intake manifold when she pops/farts that means the missfire is going back up the inlet manifold past the inlet valves, now I know you have checked the timing and its bang on so its got to be pre-ignition :idea: CAUSES OF PRE-IGNITION (Lifted from http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm) Carbon deposits form a heat barrier and can be a contributing factor to preignition. Other causes include: An overheated spark plug (too hot a heat range for the application). Glowing carbon deposits on a hot exhaust valve (which may mean the valve is running too hot because of poor seating, a weak valve spring or insufficient valve lash). A sharp edge in the combustion chamber or on top of a piston (rounding sharp edges with a grinder can eliminate this cause). Sharp edges on valves that were reground improperly (not enough margin left on the edges). A lean fuel mixture. Low coolant level, slipping fan clutch, inoperative electric cooling fan or other cooling system problem that causes the engine to run hotter than normal. Sound possable? Or am I talking poo (again) :-(

Nice one :-) that would be very handy!

You cant remove the glass without trashing the plastic holder :-( as mentioned if the glass is broken get busy with a hammer and a large flat blade screwdriver

Yep it will be fine, provided as you say its dried properly :) While you have it off have you not thought of fitting a FMIC? Check out THS performance I am planning to fit either a Type 1 or 2 not decided yet 8) http://www.thsperformance.co.uk/cgi-bin ... PR=-1&TB=A Cheers Dan

The smaller bits will be stuck to the inside with all the oil :-( you will need to leave it to soak in warm water with plenty of washing up liquid then get the hose on it that should clean it all out :-)

Top service all round but Pic's required! :-)

Hi Mate, I know Tom (Toad on the forum) has two 16v Corrados that he is breaking so he may be able to sort you out with everything you need, he will even let you work off the parts with sexual favours if he really likes you ;-) Dan

Bloody hell :shock: glad your ok though fella, if you had been giving stacks down the motorway it could have been a different story! I have been noticing/ignoring a knocking noise from my drivers side wishbone, best I get it looked at sooner rather than later!!

Not knocking your replacement Dave they are top notch and have saved everyone from buying new VW handles :thumb right: plus I have not heard of anyone else having this problem so it should not put anyone else off, I just wanted to let people know that if you do find the handle quite stiff after replacement make sure you strip and check why its stiff rather than ignoring it like me :( Anyway I have sorted a replacement driverside handle from DubNut that is broken in the usual place so I will be making good from bad next weekend :D

Having gone once last year I replaced the broken part with a new one from Dave16v all was well for the next year or so apart from the handle being very stiff despite being well greased up :lol: anyway last Thursday morning I tried to open the car and the handle broke again, but this time it was the pivot part of the mech that has gone so looks like it replacement time :-( anyway just as a warning if you have replaced the usual bit that breaks and the handle is stiff strip it and work out why! Dont leave it till it breaks something else! Dan

:-( send Dave16v a PM re sorting one of his solid replacements, its good stuff and comes with complete instructions I did both my drivers side and passenger side when they went just after I got the car and they have been really good, although the drivers side handle was very stiff after replacement (should have looked into why ages ago really) looks like the extra strain has killed something else will find out what tomorrow :?

Its just never ending isnt it :lol: I have had all the cables, connectors and the above link for ages all I need to do is cut to the correct link and connect it all up. Far to cold for anything but emergency jobs at the moment though! And to top it all I broke my drivers side door handle this morning :-( not sure whats gone as it already has Dave16v magic door handle fix, but its not opening the door from the outside anymore... Bloody Corrados!!

Anytime :-)

This might help ya :-) probably worth replacing the lot, I have the 4 Gauge cable and the connectors to do mine just havent got round to it yet :? http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6014 Corrado Club of Canada Forum Index

Very nice find 8) thanks for sharing!

Looks good mate :-) am going to have to get off my arse and do mine! Charlie looks quite impressed too ;-)

As far as I know there are two problems, One the bolt snaps, or Two it works loose, I had mine work loose and in two mins it went from fine to not starting because the timing was so far out :-( so yes it happens to late G60's too. I think this happend on mine because the PO had the engine rebuilt and the re-used the original (one use only stretch bolt) Once I retapped the crank and replaced with the MK1 DX bolt, washer and a dab of thread lock all was good :D If you havent changed it or dont know that its been done on your car it would be worth doing next time you change the cam belt!

Darren, Whe you say reface do you mean just flat it off removing and edges and burrs or is this something more compilacted?

just had a look on mine and didnt see it :? post a pick or try here: http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4198 Sometimes the link doesnt work it takes you to the home page in that case click these posts to find it: Corrado Club of Canada Forum Index

Hi Mate, I had the oil pump done on mine a while back, its a bugger to get the sump off if you leave the gearbox on as you need a "wobble extension" to get at the bloody bolts, aside from that its fairly easy :) The relief valve had jammed closed on mine so when it was cold it kept spitting the oil filter seal out and pissing oil everywhere :-( god only knows what pressure the oil was under to do that :shock: Best to put a genuine pump on rather than a pattern part as you know its going to last! And get a windage tray in there too to hold the oil in place when your giving it beans.

Nice one mate :) I have toyed with the idea of doing mine myself at some point but it is one of those jobs that scare's the sh1te out of me, I did see you can get a re-build kit with all the bearings and seals for under £200 and the cheapest pro rebuild I have seen is pushing £400 :-( Am going to have to decide one way or the other soon though as mine is due a rebuild in the next 9000 miles or so...