herisites

That would be to physically fit the charger etc to the car, it would still need mapping afterwards (although CrazyDave's resistor trick would work temporarily)

Well I live in Kettering, used to live in Rushden so not that far from you at all! You can't get my charger rebuilt as it is the older model so they won't do it, I asked everywhere! I just got offered a brand new one at almost half the cost in return for my old one. I was going to do that but didn't have the funds at the time so thought I'd give it a try rebuilding it myself as it's only the little bearings inside that have gone! Like I said, mine was running 7psi, the engine compression was lowered, it had NO mapping just bigger injectors and a little trick resistor in the MAF signal line (thanks to CrazyDave for his help on that!) and when I took it to the rolling road day last year it was pushing out 270bhp and 235lb/ft which was pretty impressive. However it was pulling a lot of timing which was down to improper mapping and insufficient cooling! With a proper remap and water injection it would be spot on and would most likely produce closer to 300bhp.

Regardless of engine yes the airbox will have to come off as it's a replacement air filter and it won't effect the fuel injection system at all :scratch: that's attached to the head, nothing to do with the airbox.

If you're not too far away I don't mind helping out when you come to fit it either. I know it inside out now!

Oh and as for what's there: - SP30-74 Rotrex Charger with 80mm pulley (not working) - Mocal 16 row oil cooler and oil lines for Charger - Charger bracket (and everything that comes with it including belt) - Aircon pulley for car's without aircon (still on the car) - Shed load of silicon and ally pipes to connect it all up (some still on the car) - Forge diverter valve - Storm's own rather large Fuel Regulator (to be used with standard injectors, or not needed if using larger injectors and map) - Jetex cone air filter - LC-1 wideband air fuel ratio lambda with guage (still on the car) Think that's it? :scratch: It's pretty much everything bar injectors and a remap. Attached is how it looked like when all on the car 8)

Well I need to rebuild the charger and to be perfectly honest that aint gunna happen any time soon :lol: The charger, I don't know the mileage, I bought it after being told it had only really been tested and then when up and running I drove a bit with it on and then went round Europe, so probs only 3k I done with it. I know now it had probably been used a bit more than was stated! As for the rest of the kit that was all brand new so about 3k miles if that. I need to go through it so will do that this weekend and see if I have everything, clean it up and then I can give you a price, as at the min it's all sitting in a box in my garage the same place I put it the day I returned from Europe last year! Also there are a couple of bits still on my car like silicon pipes and the aircon pulley etc. I'm taking my engine out soon though to replace with the R32 so I will have all of this off. So it's not going to be fully available for perhaps a couple of weeks to be honest mate!

If you get a charger on its own I have pretty much EVERYTHING else you need to fit it ;) I could work out a price if you are interested? I still have the charger but I need to rebuild that so will just sell that separately when I get round to doing that I suppose. As for doing it yourself, fitting the charger isn't that hard at all. Mine went pop when I was in the mountains in Italy during a road trip last year, not ideal! I managed to take it off and put the car back to standard in the hotel's small garage with limited tools and only part needed was the shorter serpentine belt!

I had a Rotrex on mine last year and they are great superchargers if done properly, not as laggy as a Vortech. Make sure you get a C model not an old SP model which aren't very reliable. The C30-94 is good for up to 400bhp IIRC, 300bhp will be the minimum for it I'd imagine. I had a measly SP30-74 running 7psi and even with lowered compression mine was running 270bhp (with no cooling either, and no map just a variable resistor in the MAF signal line!). I got my charger 2nd hand (which is why it went pop on me :censored:) but I got the rest of the kit (brackets, pullies, belts etc) from a company in Denmark called R-Techs which was cheaper than going to Storm! I'm not sure if they are still going though as their website (www.r-techs.dk) isn't working :scratch:. Engine wise, if you are going over 300bhp then it need to be strong, check the timing chains (mine were fooked so I had to replace mine), if you haven't had the head gasket done then might be worth replacing with a metal spacer gasket to lower the compression slightly, and if you intend on going for more power in the future then use ARP non-stretch head and conrod bolts. With them installed the engine will be bomb proof and good for big power. Then you can start strapping a charger to it. Also worth noting if you are planning for over 300bhp then you may need to upgrade your clutch, my standard one held with 270bhp, but with over 300bhp you might need an uprated one like a Helix. Also worth noting that with more power you will need better brakes, suspension etc! I had coilies, most bushes etc renewed and upgraded my brakes to 288mm ones off a late mk3 Golf VR6 (same as MK4 golfs as well I believe and same calipers as the 312's). The brakes were good enough for most the time with 270bhp, could have been better though when driving it hard. Have a look through my thread and the Forced Induction VR6 thread and you will find most info you need to know!

i'm running things so will need to get them replaced before i fit my arb's. i think i'm gonna take simon's advice and go for a 25mm back and 22mm front. will report back in a month or two once i've fitted them and had a bit of a hoon. Take in to account Simon's is a 1.8 engine so the 22mm front is a good upgrade. You have a heavy VR up front so fitting a 22mm front will cause yet more understeer. I recently fitted a Neuspeed 25mm rear on mine (with tired axle bushes) and it made a good amount of difference, sharper turn in and less understeer, perfect imo. Will be much better when I finally get round to replacing the tired axle bushes!

No chance, my standard VR with lowered compression (so gutless!) pisses all over a fiesta ST! Not through town perhaps as they will have a revvier engine and shorter gears, but where it counts a VR is definitely quicker.

Looks absolutely fantastic good work! :notworthy: Makes me miss my Brocks so much now :(

Looking forward to seeing the R32 in 8) is a Mk5 one?

There was a guy on here a while back who I used to know called Bendy (Ben) and he had Steve Dentons old PVW corrado which was originally slammed on 17" BBS RS301's, then he put 9x16 Brocks on (my old wheels) but was too low (took out 7 sumps IIRC!) and then went for 9x17 Keskin KT4's. Now his car was slammed, it only had a 50mm splitter on and that used to scrape everything :shock: BUT his had all the arches pulled out as far as they could go!

I personally find my Weitec's too hard (they have 400lb springs on!) for daily driving, they are great for handling, corners flat but to me they are quite crashy. Also I would now only buy 'cheaper' coilovers if I lived in a nice smooth area, my area is appauling and me and Kev discovered that both my front dampers are leaking! So not great really :shrug: I'll be saving for sdome V3's ... along with the R32, upgrading drivetrain components, buying a house etc etc!!!

Oh good, I didn't think I was talking too much crap :lol: Yep, that's where mine still needs some attention, crappy soggy GSF wishbone bushes which lose the castor when hard braking causes it to wander a bit. It's still massively improved but the R32 rear bushes should relly sharpen it up! I've not noticed that one, but then mine's a bit of a pig in general to get in lower gears, mainly when cold though. Will put some Redline MT90 in the box before I strap it to the R32!

I'm going for the Dubpower 6 branch mate. I was a bit hesitant after what happened with Karl's but have been speaking with Pete and he said the last thing they want is that happening again so have made precautions with the newer batches so fingers crossed it will be ok with no leaks! Expensive option, but good looking and will sound great 8)

When the downpipes arrive I have most the parts so will begin then, so within the next few weeks I imagine if everything goes to plan!

Me and Kev fitted them on saturday. In theory they're a piece of piss to fit but mine was putting up a fight as the recess they are supposed to fit perfectly in to was not perfectly round on my car and so some minor grinding/sanding was required! After that it's just a case of drilling couple of holes and bolting them in place! Self centering is just how nicely the wheels straighten up out of a bend, feels like more precise steering. I suppose if you imagine a caster wheel on a shopping trolley for example, if you push it with the caster in front of the axis of steering the wheels wander all over the place and then it casters around to trail behind the axis of steering - so self centers and becomes stable. On cars it's a similar thing the more caster the more self-centering it has which makes the car easier to drive and improves its directional stability (reducing its tendency to wander). Like I said before modern cars have tons of caster to make them uber stable, but then they have more advanced power steering and stiffer chassis etc to make the steering light and positive otherwise it would be heavy and slow! I might be talking complete bollocks though :lol: I think it's something like that anyway! *Awaits Kev to confirm*

Yeah it's not quite as nice in the metal though is it :lol: You will be seeing me sooner than that mate once these downpipes arrive ;)

That's true, I'm not always one of them though :roll: :lol: I am when I can be bothered :lol: Yeah forgot to say about the self centering, that's a big improvement with these mounts.

Well you say that they won't wear out, the mounts themselves obviously won't as they are solid ally but the bearings can run out quite quickly on them apparently, not a major job to replace them as you won't have to remove the mounts, just drop the suspension down by removing the top nut, pushing out the old bearing and pushing in a new one. New bearing's are about £12 IIRC, so bit of maintenance, but tbh if you are going to start fitting performance improving parts to your car you need to expect some form of maintenance really. I got mine from Junkie on the forum who bought them from Leon, so I only paid £120 I think it was. IIRC they are only about £150 ish new? Not got any pics yet no, if I remember I will take some tonight. they look pretty good though ;) would look better if they were on the outside as they are a nice looking piece of kit :( but it no longer has them gold caps on so you look down and see some shiny ally mounts 8)

MED's? :scratch: Yeah THESE bad boys. They are solid top mounts to replace the squidgy rubber ones. They give the car an extra 1.5 degrees of caster which gives better stability and make braking more positive. If you look at any modern car's suspension it will have ton's of caster which is why they can sit on motorways for hours without having to adjust the steering once, whereas the corrado is constantly moving around, more so when braking. Think of it in terms of motorbikes, cruisers like Harley's etc have their suspension forks far out in front whereas sports bikes have the wheel tucked right in to the front of the bike, quicker turn in but unstable in straight lines ;) These will make the steering ever so slightly heavier, but on mine because they have stiffened it up the steering feels sharper. They do also add more road noise however which isn't anything major, just sounds like slightly rougher road surface. You can stop it though by adding shed loads of waxoyl under them to soften it up a bit.

Mini update, downpipes will be ready next week hopefully! Also me and Kev fitted the MED top mounts on saturday and what a difference they make! :shock: I haven't had the tracking done properly yet, me and Kev just done it by eye, but to be fair we did a damn good job as it feels cock on :lol: The car feels much more stable now, the steering feels sharp and the brakes are more positive, very worthy mod imo!

Might be just a lower strut brace if it's running under the engine connecting the wheels? As for rear ARB's, I fitted a Neuspeed 25mm rear ARB couple of weeks ago and it's great! Really improves turn in and it corners much flatter, doesn't feel like it's dragging its arse round the bend. My rear axle bushes are fooked as well so with them done I dare say the ARB will make even more of a difference! Also fitted MED's and they are awesome! 8)

Only get a genuine VW one when you get one as copy parts from GSF etc don't last very long. It's not a difficult job really, it will be a lot easier if you have a proper ball joint splitter as getting them out of the hub carrier can be a b!tch! I have only used the type of splitter you whack with a hammer before and they work but obviously ruin the original ball joint so I'd only recommend using one if you are replacing the BJ. You will need to get the tracking done after as well. Just get stuck in, it's the best way to learn, you will see what nuts/bolt's etc need removing when down there, but basically it's the main nut holding the BJ to the hub carrier and then 3 bolts holding the BJ to the wishbone.