herisites

There definately some bargains to be had, i think i am a class example. Im going back to uni in a few weeks so was looking for a cheap run about and ended up getting a D reg mk2 polo with 74k miles for £100 :shock: and it runs sweet, ok not perfect as it needs a new clutch but thats only £40 and then it will run perfect! Came up pretty well with a polish too :lol:

I think that is the perfect way to describe owning a corrado imo, well said!! :lol:

I think thats ya best bet mate get a cheap mk2 that runs fine and wont cost the world to run (will be easy to find i would imagine!) and use that as a daily hack and then when you get back in to the corrado just to drive it not to use it to get you somewhere like you have been doing (and myself taking it for granted exactly as you have!) you will realise you cant be without it! When you just want to drive the corrado its becomes the car it was meant to be and thats a sports coupe especially with your yummy KW suspension and engine mods, yours must be lovely to drive! And you could also do what dukest has said, save and spend, save and spend etc on the mk2, gradually restoring it. No need to go crazy and stripping it to the bare shell, just replace parts as you go along making it better and better, then when you have saved enough take it off the road, strip it, clean the shell up, get it resprayed and then stick all the other nice new bits on that you have accomodated over time and its ready to go! I think you can have the best of both world then.

Dont sell Micheal, echoeing everyone else you will just regret it. My C has recently been tucked away in the garage and been replaced by the beast that is Doofy (my polo!). I have only been driving the polo a few days. I drove my C every day to work and was always getting fed up with it because of new noises/things needing doing but every time i open the garage door now i weep a little as i see the corrado sitting there looking absolutely fcuking awesome and i cant use it (insurance has run out :( ). Driving an older basic car (ok a golf is going to be better than the polo which is basically a lunch box on wheels!) has made me realise just how good a car the corrado is to drive, even driving newer cars (mates A3 1.8T, various Golf Mk4's and even the old mans Audi A4) all felt the same, boring! Yes they didnt squeak as much, they didnt make as many noises when turing at low speeds (fcuking top mount bearings :roll:) but once out of the slow traffic and crap roads and on to some nice fast roads and the corrado really comes into its own, even my dads audi with 4 wheel drive imo doesnt feel as fun to drive fast as my corrado does!! I 100% see where you are coming from with the MK1 golf, not so much the Mk2 though, i do like the mk2's but not close to the mk1's which are just the essence of cool imo. And i will still get one when i can afford one and as said they really hold their value for a good one, even good ones still need work doing in some cases! I will most likely buy a cheap one and then do it up from shell to all new components underneath, lots of money though! But i would still want my corrado to drive because have you driven a mk1? They aren't that nice to drive really as they are still an old car but its just the cool looks that i love so much. I reckon you should keep the C and instead of supercharge it and spend more money on it put the money aside and get a mk1 (or mk2 if you must :lol:) and slowly start to do it up yourself which will be a good achievement and you will learn a lot in the process. That way you can have a uber cool mk1 (or mk2 :roll:) project car and a super sexy corrado storm that still goes like stink and has the comfort etc.

Nice one mate i will give them a try. Didnt think it would be that much :roll:

it wont work out like that though, i have pretty much everything i need now to fit the charger, bar the piping which i will get sorted out soon. If i spend the £500 on injectors and getting it mapped at about 8psi then yeah i will most probably get between 280-300bhp but with that power i then need atleast aquamist to keep the charge temps down so its going to cost a fair bit more and be more work. And then i have to prey the engine holds which at 140k and never had any head work done is probably unlikely! So by just leaving it with stock injectors now and fitting this fuel regulator thing (which im sure i could sell on when i upgrade anyway) its good to go without any mapping, will still produce about 260bhp at about 6psi which wont run hot enough to need cooling (ok it would most probably benefit but its not competely necessary unless running 8+ psi) and it wont put the engine under as much pressure so it will last as my play car through uni (using my new beast of a polo as my daily 8) ) whilst i save then i can get the head rebuild with metal head gasket and ARP head and conrod bolts etc and get it mapped for some silly power!

Quick update. I know what im doing now to get it finished and up and running! Basically i have decided to just go for the smaller power and save some money as well as save my head gasket no doubt! Storm sell a custom fuel tap/regulator which you attach within the fuel line that gives allows more fuel flow and can work with the supercharger up to 7psi and doesnt require mapping! The tap isnt cheap at about £175 but its £175 for the tap as apposed to £100 for red tops and then a £400 remap! I still need all the pipework though, Storm said that the price for all the piping from them is going to come to around £300, well thats a lot of money isnt it? I know that theirs will come with a galvanised metal pipe as well as added bits for the ISV etc but im not going to be running high boost and aquamist yet so the metal pipe isnt needed is it? And the ISV etc can be added easily cant it? He just said its drilling a hole in the top elbow and plugging the ISV plug in and then an additional pipe to go to the ISV or something along those lines anyway! So could i save much money by just buying all the pipes etc myself from siliconhoses.com and making the ISV attachment etc myself? If anyone wants to make a list of what i need that would be helpful lol but im pretty sure its just the following: * 76-51mm reducer off tb (silicon) * Joiner * 135 degree 51mm elbow (silicon) * Straight 50mm pipe * 51mm coupler to connect the pipe to the outlet of the charger * 76mm 90 degree elbow off charger inlet * MAF * Cone filter Will i need any more than that? Im guessing i will between the 90 degree elbow and MAF and a bit of straight between the MAF and cone?

First of all your car looks fapping gorgeous in that picture! 8) Did you check all the offsets of the wheels to see if they are all the same? What are the offsets? If they are all the same (or atleast front 2 the same and rear 2 the same) then they should all sit the same in the arches, if not then something sounds dodgy! If you just want to lose a few mil then you can have the centres of the wheels milled down slightly or the face of the brake discs milled down a few mil as well.

Yeah it was an awesome mk1, dunno why he sold it really. I love mk1's they are just the essence of cool imo slammed on wide 13's, subtle is the key with them, i think 15's or the clipper bodykit etc just ruins the look. I do still want a mk1, i was looking but they still hold their money if you want a good runner, the equivilent to my polo (D reg, 74k miles, not much rust etc) would cost a fortune! I was looking at ones in pretty bad nick with high miles for £500+ which is too much at the moment. So i got the polo just for uni and when i can afford it i will sell the polo and get a mk1!

Was this his car? Yes mate, Mugly sold his golf mk1 and not sure if he got a car between but he got this as a run around and was planning on doing it up as a cheap project but he hated driving it so put it for sale. Its not great to drive i will agree so can see why he said it was horrible but it will do me for a uni car, its not terrible lol.

Oh and i have decided it WILL be slammed on some little wide 13's 8) its gotta be done :lol:

You sure can polish a turd :lol: Not sent him them, im going to post them up on edition for all to see and then see his reply :D Already got a job to do at the weekend, take the fuel tank off and find where its leaking :roll: only a slight leak, i didnt notice it before but then it didnt have much fuel in but i put half a tank in this morning so there must be a crack somwhere, think it might be where the filler neck connects to the tank. So going to take the tank off, clean up the rust areas and fill in the crack (ooer!!) Gotta do the clutch soon as well as its slipping quite a bit, i think it would go ok when its done, at the minute you cant really put your foot down else it slips so just have to gradually accelerate :lol:

Cheers Michael! You are right mate APC is great stuff, i havent actually used the Megs stuff yet, i just use Aldi's APC which is £3 for a gallon, much cheapness, a lot of guys on detailing world use it, its not as strong as Megs though so i just use a stronger dilution, 2:1 instead of 4:1 and it does the job, also foams up really nicely in the foam lance for my pressure washer, although only use it on cars without wax or if im stripping wax as it takes most of it off! Did a pretty good job on the carpets and done a superb job on the window rubbers and trims cleaning all the green crap off! Its also good on fabric roofs! The masking tape isnt exactly 'special' but its used more on paint than the normal cream stuff as it leaves less residue behind. I get it from cleanyourcar.co.uk like most of my stuff but most car cleaning sites do it like Elite etc.

As promised here are a 'few' pics. Ended up spending all weekend on it really, the paint was fairly easy to restore with the machine polisher being single stage, just went over fairly quickly with some intensive polish on my old sponge pads and it was transformed, also went over it with some SRP via the machine on a soft pad, i love SRP normally but used with a machine its even better :shock: the intensive polish restored the colour and removed swirls but the SRP really brought a deep glossy shine to it and very quickly too! As well as paint though i also restored all the plastics and rubbers by cleaning thoroughly with some APC (mainly to get the green crap off the rubbers!), the plastics were heated with a heat gun and worked with some snot (thats AG Bumper Care to people who dont know) and the rubbers were then cleaned with AG Rubber Care and finally some Megs Endurance to keep them black and glossy! The engine bay got a bit of a clean up (sorry no pics i forgot) but nothing major, just wiped the majority of cap off, hit anything metal with some wire wool and wiped plastics/rubbers over with AG Rubber Care. And finally gave the interior carpets a bit of a clean with some APC, a stiff brush, an old microfibre and a hoover. Dash was wiped over and windows were polished inside and out with AG Glass Polish. Now for some pics 8) This was the level of swirls and pinkness pretty much over the whole car, the roof was worse though, looked like it had been cleaned with a really course brush as there were lots of deep straight scratches as apposed to swirls. This is how the bonnet looked after a few hits with the intensive polish. This is how the pad looked just after doing the bonnet! A pic of some nice 'touch ups' on the bonnet i gotta sort out with some RED touch up and some wet sand paper :roll: I continued to polish the rest of the car then, some before and afters: Who's that handsome devil!! :oops: Roof before Roof after 50/50 on the roof, tried to get a good angle to use the flourecent lights to show the scratches/swirls. And some pics taken today with the sun out 8) Yes that is a CD player and it actually makes noises through 1 speaker 8) :lol: Im pretty pleased with how its come up, doesnt look bad for a hundred quids worth of car does it :D I know that a lot of you are probably thinking "Whats the point??!!" well the point is that a) im learning with it, ok i have machine polished a few cars now but none red with single stage paint so that was new to me, im also going to learn how to do touch ups with wet sanding, smart repair with filling ans spraying, when i dont need it i will strip the engine and learn how it all goes together. And b) i am not only going to be using it to get me to uni, if i was i would just leave it but im also going to be using it to do valeting/detailing at the weekends whilst at uni because my kit wont fit in my rado and will in this with the seats folded down etc and it would look good turning up in a 20 year old car thats really clean and got better condition paint than my customers :lol: What do y'arl think then?

Just gave the beast a clean before the rain came. Used fairly strong mix of APC to clean everything off the paint. Then moved it into the garage and im just going to start polishing it up. Should be interesting with old single stage paint so i think i will use my old sponge pads. Its got some nice pink panels im looking forward to hitting :D Its also got a lot of touch ups all over the paint so i will see how they turn out with just a polish but dont think it will do much so i am going to get some wet sand paper and give some areas a wet sand and polish, going to need my own touch up paint as well me thinks as one of the previous owners touched up some chips on the bonnet with black paint and its a red car :? but i think it was more to stop rust than touching up as there are spots round the arches etc where he has used waxoyl to touch up, but its worked as the car is almost completely rust free! Watch this space as im going to take a few pics.

Cool will do mate. At the minute cost effectiveness is ideal for me, so for the sake of 20-30bhp less and saving the money for a remap etc its worth it, besides like you said its still going to be fun anyway it will still be supercharged and will still have about 260bhp ish so im happy with that for now. Then save up and get the head rebuild with metal spacer gasket and ARP bolts etc and go for some silly power :twisted:

You bunch of wooses! :lol: Its not that hard a job to do yourself, just a bit time consuming but its a good thing to learn and you know the jobs being done properly and you can play around with wire routing and de-rattling etc yourself until you are happy with it! Thats what i did, im glad i saved myself the £175 personally :D

Another cracking job Nathan. The reflection shots are awesome! I want that tap when i get my own place even if it costs a months wages :lol:

Cheers for that useful info David. I am going to give it a check over at the weekend so will take a look at those points. If there is any rust under the battery that can be my first body repair practise :D weld a new plate in if needed and spray it! Or whatever is needed anyway. Its been sitting on my drive since i picked it up the other night and there doesnt appear to be any leaks coming from it. The guy i got it off said there is the slightest fuel leak out the filler neck he thinks but it only leaks if the car is parked on a lean! So i will try and find where its leaking and patch it up but so far havent noticed anything.

Oh and what size is the throttle body on the vr? Is it a definate 80mm or is it 76mm?

Well sorry to disappoint mate but the piss stained lights are gone. They werent actually yellow lights, it was a crappy film on them and the guy i got it off said they look w*nk up close so ripped them off. Yeah i think i will just run it into the ground, still going to do some cheap work to it though but thats all to learn as i said. Clutch needs doing so will do that, brakes i can just put up with, but will check the pads etc just to be sure but im pretty sure they are just generally that bad! and practise body work repairs and polish it up! Was going to start polishing lastnight but it was pissing down and was cold so couldnt be arsed :lol: i will have a play at the weekend though.

Now thats an idea! :lol:

Cheers Kev, knew you wouldnt take too long to reply :lol: Ok so i need the pipes with the ISV etc, so thats going to cost me more then :( ahh well. And they said they have tested the rotrex on VR6's as much as they can now and that the best results were running them without a diverter valve (for stage 1 anyway) and aquamist but thats only really needed at higher boost. Yeah i knew mine was smaller and less powerful so i reckon it should be ok. They said they havent really done any SP's yet only the C's which are more powerful so hopefully mine will be pretty tame with the 80mm pulley. But then if it starts boosting too high then i will just change it for a 90mm pulley and run it a bit slower, i dont want to risk it yet! I could save some more money though if i decide to go for less power as he said that they just change the fuel regulator to a bigger one and then it can run standard injectors and doesnt require mapping so i could save a fortune and just put up with a bit less power. Im going to give them a ring later on though and discuss my options. At the minute i need cheapest way possible i reckon as i have underestimated my money allowance and uni is cropping up very closely now!

I spoke to Storm yesterday about my setup, mainly to get the intake pipes etc sorted out but also had a pretty long chat about rotrex's in general, how they would run my setup, what sort of power i would get etc and im a bit worried now! Apparently they havent had a VR6 with a rotrex on run less than 310bhp :shock: thats awesome but i dont want that sort of power due to my standard high mile engine! I need to find out a few things for them, first for the pipes i need to measure a few bits which i have done, they need to know whether my car has the idle valve on the throttle body elbow as that needs different pipes im guessing which apparently makes a big difference to price! So can anyone tell me whether mine has it? Its a 95 vr with the latest type ecu if that helps. I had a look at the elbow and its got a breather pipe coming off the top and something else plugs into it underneath? The guy also told me that i definately dont need to run a diverter valve if running low boost as they found after thorough testing on vr6's running rotrex's that with a diverter valve it actually loses power somehow and the rotrex likes having the pressure to run more efficiently. If i was to be running 10psi or over then they would suggest a diverter valve. I also need to let him know the gearing of my charger as the 300bhp+ figures that they get are from the C model charger (which is what mr_fusion had i believe) where as i have the older SP model which has different gearing making them produce slightly less power. Martin at R-Tech has sent me an 80mm pulley as he seems to think that will be ok without engine engine upgrades or additional cooling. But im thinking of just running less power than a originally wanted now as Storm said i will need atleast aquamist if running 8-10psi where as if i run more 6-7 i could get away with it and the engine should last a bit longer too. Im not overly fussed about stupid power anyway as i can easily go for more power later on when i can afford to upgrade the head gasket and head/conrod bolts etc and go for silly power then but for now as im going back to uni soon and will be driving about in an old 1.3 polo getting into a supercharged vr6 is going to be awesome even if only running about 260bhp!

:lol: there wont be any G40 engines going in, i might look into a diesel conversion maybe that would be a good learning curve! And even more cheapness for fuel :lol: The clutch wasnt an issue really, once it got hot if i tried thrashing it then it was slipping (or the massive power was spinning the wheels :wink: :lol:) but if i just drove it steadily then it was ok. Im not going to be using it yet anyway so i will do that clutch anyway as well as try and get the brakes working a bit better! :shock: