herisites

I heard you the first time!! NO! :lol:

Stunning car mate! And good choice of wheels 8) What offsets are you running on them?

Tbh guys the wheels arent top priority at the moment, getting the supercharger done and getting the car insured are! If i have enough money left over after insuring it (which is doubtful!) then i will sort the wheel situation out but for now the speedlines will be staying on as they can accomodate my 288's and it still looks good!

Yeah i dont have a sandwich box in mine either :roll: :lol:

As far as i know mate 7.5's CAN be done with the 288's as i know a guy whos running them on a highline. Its just the dish design on the 9's and the offset that are the problem, i could get my 9's over them but i would need to space them out about 10mm which would look stupid, drive even worse and catch the arches! Whereas the 7.5's have a much slimmer dish and the spokes dont cut so low down so they will clear the brakes and would be a damn site nicer to drive with! But like i mentioned above its going to be more money for them which for a while i cant spare so will have to stick with speedies until i have some money spare and know what im doing!

My car made Readers' Rides in PVW this month to my surprise! :D She looks sexy 8) Feel bad now though :( as she looks so good on the Brocks and they said that its the Brocks that make the car special so im seriously thinking maybe i should go for the 7.5" fronts after all! Doesnt matter now as the speedlines need to stay on because of my 288 brakes so she will be wearing the speedies for ed38 atleast, but just hopefully charged up so a bit more special :D

Ahh right, i thought dump valves just released the air rather than divert it. Makes sense really dump valves dump the air out and diverter valves divert them! Im slowly taking this all in :lol: That makes sense having them in those positions, what would the noise be like though with 2! Or are yours quiet unlike the chavs who just want their cars to go PSSSSSHHHTT!! when they change gear :lol:

Blimey mate get with the times :lol: Those 2 are just photoshops, there isn't a new corrado being made but a new Scirocco which is being called the Iroc SEE HERE

I want your interior!! :shock: Good pics mate, car looks very clean! 8)

Teething problems mate! I believe the TIAL comes with an 11psi spring. I tried a 9psi spring but it was too soft. I think 10psi would be about right but they don't do one! I'm going to look at doing a twin dump valve setup as a failsafe and get rid of the boost faster! Since knowing about this whole forced induction malarky and running dump valves etc i have wondered whether 2 dump valves would work, obviously for me it would be pointless at 8 psi! So would they be set up in line with each other and divert back to the same point or be placed at different areas?

Yeah i know a guy whos got them his name is PeteC on the forum. I saw his car at the summer scorcher and i thought the S3 wheels really suit the rado. Was almost tempted myself but im going to stick by my decision and get some nice light 16's.

Ok then karl i will give them a ring tomorrow, im crap on phones though which is why i usually try to email! :lol: ahh well!

Nice one Andy, glad you got them sorted in the end! They look great, really fill the wheels, pretty much how the 288's look in my speedlines at the minute 8) I want your wheels!

Nope just the heater matrix, some people reckon it can be done without removing the dash, personally i dont see how as the matrix sits right at the top at the back of the dash and you have to remove the lot to get to it. But i also decided to remove the whole dash as it gave me the opportunity to de-squeak and de-rattle it by adding felt and foam between where plastics meet and rub together, as well as like i mentioned re-routing the heater control cables so they run straight as possible making their life a bit easier and generally tidied up and cabled tied everything underneath, it looked completely different going back together! Much better now!

Ahh i see what you mean now, well yours must have some massive pressure so understandable it caused that damage really. I have ordered my diverter valve and it comes with 3 different strength springs to choose from for difference psi im guessing, hard medium and soft, it comes with the medium fitted which is stock 1.8T one i think?? So i hopefully shouldnt have any back pressure! Even if mine is only going to be running a puny 8psi! :lol: My brackets and pullies are on their way over from Denmark as we speak :D and should take about 3 days apparently, and i may also have some injectors sorted out so its just the piping i need. I have emailed NS Racing to see if they have any spare upper intakes for the Vortechs, should save me a bit of hassle and money hopefully!

Ouch! That doesnt look too good Kev! I dont really know much about turbos so have NO idea what you are talking about :lol: but good luck getting it sorted all the same :)

Ok not posted up any details for a while mainly because i havent really done any :lol: But i want to post this up because i was really pleased with the results. Some of the guys from the summer scorcher wanted to see this car so here it is ... my mates Alfa 145 Twinspark Cloverleaf which started off looked after and then had a bit of a neglected life for a while resulting in a few dents and scratches (to be sorted out) and generally really dirty! I actually washed the car a few weeks back for him as was doing mine anyway, he drove the car to portugal last year and i dont think it had been cleaned since :shock: so was pretty minging! After the wash i pointed out to him how bad his paint looked, there were swirls, holograms, lots of random scratches and just generally dull so as he is thinking of selling (to get a 350Z!) i offered to tidy it up in return for his help doing my heater matrix and random other jobs with my car. So yesterday he came round around 12 ish and we got started straight away by pre-soaking it using a Karscher foam gun and some snow foam, left to dwell for about 5 mins whilst we cleaned the wheels up. Some before pics (the car actually looks pretty clean as i think he had cleaned it not long before): Once the car had dwelled he rinsed it off: We then washed the car using 2 buckets and some Autoglym shampoo. We rinsed it off but didnt dry it was i then clayed it using Sonus Mild clay, this was really needed as the car felt like sandpaper! I didnt get any clay pics as we wanted to get it done pretty quickly, plus my mate was lethal with a pressure washer and didnt want a wet camera :lol: After the clay we quickly washed it again and dried it with sonus drying towels. Now the swirls and holograms were really noticeable: We moved the car into the garage and got out the machine polisher and the menzerna polish. I asked my mate what he wanted, full defect removal or just bring the paint up a bit using a finishing polish which will remove the holograms but not all swirls. He decided he wasnt bothered about full defect removal he just wanted it to look a bit better so i just used Menzerna 106FF Final Finish on a Megs finishing pad at about 1200rpm paying a bit more attention to scratches. I used Scratch-X on an Ultimate German Applicator on the plastic bumper (still dont fancy using the machine on plastics!) but the scratch-x worked well really! After i had machined the whole car i asked what kind of protection he wanted, sealant or natural wax, i explained the differences and he decided that he wanted the longest lasting option ... so out came the Collinite 476s which can last 6 months easily enough with regular careful washes! Once waxed we polished the windows with AG Glass Polish, dressed the tyres and rubber trims with Megs Endurance Gel and i polished up the exhaust with Autosol and some wire wool! After pics: Total time spent was about 6 hours, we did piss about a bit though so wasnt 6 hours straight. Now the reason i wanted to show this job is because i was amazed at the difference in paint between the alfa and audi/vw paint! On mine Final Finish polish on a finishing pad barely touches the paint, on this i actually removed the majority of swirls and random scratches let alone holograms! It was so soft and made the job SO much easier to work with! I was very pleased with the outcome and my mate ... well he treated me to a pub meal after :lol: Cheers!

Yep 195's on a 9" or maybe even 9.5" rim!! :shock: I ran 215/40/16's on 9" wide rims and i had no problems, i actually prefered the handling as there is NO tyre movement so the car feels planted, but its scary in the wet because there's no give!

Cheers Karl, so which bit is it i would need? The part with the K&N filter? Will that fit straight on to my charger and relocate the MAF as needed? What about from the charger to the throttle body?

Yep fitting a new matrix isn't pretty :shock: I had the exact same problem but with mine it wouldnt go round to the face position, but the face position was stuck open because if my vents were open air always came out, so i had to close the vents so the air went to the windscreen. I had to change my heater matrix (the actual matrix not the housing) as mine blew pissing coolant all over my carpets :mad: so whilst it was all out i checked all the cable and mine were just pretty seized up so i disconnected the cables, greased up all the cogs on the matrix housing and the heater controls as well as lubed up the cables with some engine oil (tiny amount) and then put it back together with the cables as straight as possible and mine work perfectly now and didnt need to replace anything! But thats a long job to do just for the heater cables. If your car has done high ish miles and the heater matrix hasnt been replaced then you may as well make the job worthwhile and replace the matrix to save you from wet carpets in the future because it WILL eventually blow im sure :lol: This is the actual heater matrix which is about £135 from VW (ahem rip off ahem) but £50 from GSF (genuine Valeo one!):

Ok im going to start ordering the pipes from siliconhoses.com as they definately seem to be the cheapest prices i can find. So far i have from the charger to the throttle body the following: - 51mm 90 degree bend from charger outlet - 51mm T-piece with 25mm spout for diverter valve (now for this if i get a silicon one i will need an alloy hose joiner each side wont i? But if i get a metal t-piece then i can just push the hoses each side over it yes? but being metal i then just need a bit of 25mm silicon hose to connect to the dv?? pretty sure this is what Ben had on his) - 51mm 45 degree bend - 51mm alloy joiner - 51 > 76mm reducer - 76mm alloy joiner - Now to connect to the throttle body do i need a 76mm 90 degree bend or a full on 80mm bend as they have both? Im guessing 80 to connect to the tb? Also ben told me that he had a custom 25mm spout at the apex of the elbow for the ISV, is this needed? How do i do this? If that is correct i will go ahead and order these parts so atleast im getting somewhere then :lol: Then i just need to figure out what i need the other side of the charger then which is going to include the MAF and diverter valve inlet. Would i be better of just using flexi here but with a t-piece in there somewhere for the dv?

Thanks for that info Dave, i will bare that in mind when i eventually start buying all the pipes!

Ditto :D

Ok i contacted R-tech and Martin told me that i should definatelty run a re-circulation valve. So where can i get one of these then? And what do i need to mount it? Dont i just need a T-Piece downstream of the charger with a 25mm spout for the valve to connect to? EDIT: Is THIS the one i need?

Cheers kev so i now know the difference between upstream and downstream :lol: So if i need to run the MAF between the air filter and charger intake im going to need even more bloody piping then? And if i need to get a diverter valve, is it fitted downstream of the charger but diverts upstream or am i talking crap? :? I seriously dont get it, i just thought i would mount the charger then run a pipe to the throttle body simple as but it seems to get more confusing every day :lol: