herisites

More options have arrived! I hae done 2 options for the black ones, either just a coloured edge or with the insides of the wheels painted as well.

Yeah there is something worryingly satisfying with the orange ones! :lol: I like the white look myself, but can imagine they will be a bugger to keep clean, although with the style of the wheels, once you have a good wax on them they will wipe clean ever so easily!

Just to add to this i have driven the car for a few days now since doing it and the coolant level has stayed pretty much the same, but for safe measure i replaced the expansion cap for a lovely new blue one from vw so if there were any air leaks from the old one there shouldnt be anymore!! I dont think that my head gasket is leaking as i have not seen any signs whatsoever, the engine runs sweet as a nut and its done 140k now! Although when i come to put the Rotrex on it im sure i will be testing the head gasket strength :roll: :lol: Jon - I intend to conquer everything there is to do with owning a corrado!! :lol: Its all about Go as well as Show!!

Here you go Jon, i found a better pic of Henny's car to use 8)

Yeah no worries Jon, i will have a play now ... and i will also do the photoshops as well :wink: :lol:

Well the corrado most probably is a bit longer than the golf actually, but i dont think its that much longer?? My sister had a mk2 golf and i gave it a full machine polish and valet for her before she sold it (came up a treat!) and i had to put it in the garage where i usually park my corrado and it didnt seem much shorter if any shorter really, saying that though hers was a 5 door so most probably longer than a 3 door?? There are always some good examples coming up for sale on here mate so you wont have any trouble there! And its a good time to buy at the minute as corrado prices seem to have gone down recently which is a shame but good for buying, just bad for selling (but i wont have to worry about that as i wont sell mine, and even if i do it will be AGES away and they will be classed a classic then and the value will be sky high :D) And if you ask nicely im sure someone will happily check one out for you local to them if you dont get one off the forum! And most jobs can be done on the VR with the engine still in place easily enough! You may have to jack it up to get access to some parts but thats easy enough to do, just undo the mounts and jack it up a bit!

You thinking something like this Jon?

If i read that correctly you are thinking that a corrado is bigger than a mk2? If you havent seen a corrado in the metal before mate i think you will be surprised at how small they actually are, put a corrado next to a mk2 golf and the golf looks like a house! So i would imagine it would fit on the drive fine, just tell your missus to watch when opening her doors :roll: :lol: If you didnt know already, we have a Buyer Guide here on the forum in the Knowledge Base. You should check that out and take a copy with you when looking at corrados as it tells you all the signs to look out for, if you can find a neat corrado that ticks all the boxes of the buyers guide then you shouldnt have too many problems! I agree with everything Dave has said, the VR is a great daily car, i fcuking love mine! It wipes the floor with a lot of cars on the road and its over 12 years old!! And if you spend a bit of money and time on renewing parts like the suspension and bushes etc and you will realise why they were porsche competition back in the day and voted one of the best handling FWD cars ever! The VR lump is pretty bullet proof, i think you just have to be unlucky to get one that needs regular work on! As Dave mentioned budget for the chains, clutch, head gasket etc when the miles get a bit high and other than that if its regularly serviced using quality products you wont have any problems!!

Are late lenses still available from VW? How much are they?

Welcome to the forum! You will find all the information you need to know if you use the search. G60 vs VR6 threads have been done before so you will find them if you search for it. The VR6 isnt a bad daily at all, i dont know who told you they give terrible MPG because for a v6 they are pretty good really. 30mpg is easily accessible with sensible driving, unless of course you do short journies in traffic. I drive mine through town for a bit and then on some 60mph roads for about 10 miles each day to work, i ALWAYS give it the beans when possible and i average 28mpg! When i have actually tried to get good mpg i have managed 32mpg from it and on motorway driving even more! Also i dont think the VR6 would be any harder to work on than a G60 or even a 16valve really, its still an engine at the end of the day only bigger!

Probably is, the OEM ones don't last that long on uprated suspension TBH, but they are a lot better than aftermarket poop. Part number is 1J0 412 249 and it should be £10.44 for the pair at full dealer price inc VAT. Thanks very much, i will try and get some tonight :)

Even on Trim and dash etc?? Or follow Barry Scott's Advice................TRY NEW CILLIT BANG! Yeah i think its pretty safe on plastics. You could also try toothpaste apparently :lol:

Cheers for that info Yan but i havent changed my wheel bearings yet, i bumped this thread and changed to it to top mount bearings so i didnt have to start a new thread. I am going to change my wheel bearings soon though as i think i have foobared the bearing by having to whack out the old cv joint plus doing them for piece of mind really as dont know when they were last done. What i wanted to know now was why my top mounts are clunking when turning the steering but think its the top mount bearings?

Autoglym Intensive Tar and Glue Remover should do the trick mate :)

Yeah thats what i thought. The coilies are in 2 parts, they have a smaller 'comfort' coil on top which turns on its own and then the main coil which is the height adjustable part. I have to go to vw later anyway to pick up a new expansion tank cap so i will grab some new bearings whilst there. If they are mk4 parts im guessing they should have some in stock i could take straight away?

Bumping this but now want to get to the bottom of my top mount problem as i think they are getting worse and its pissing me off! Basically at low speeds when turning the steering my top mounts turn and clunk like a bastard, i only used to be able to hear it at very low parking speeds but now i can hear them when say turning into/out of roads and im sure the steering doesnt feel right because of them. The top mounts AND bearings were knew with my Weitec coilovers which i got in December now so actually a while ago! I cant remember them ever clunking when i put them on so im guessing maybe the bearing is shot as David suggested above? When i checked them i got my bro to turn the steering with the engine running whilst i watched the top mounts. The mounts were turning as it made the clunking and the gold plate on top started moving when the mount moved but then jumps back into place when the mount clunks? So it seems like the bearings as they should turn freely right? Anyone got part number for some new bearings?

Clean your dash!! :lol: I followed one of these before, i opened my windows and sat with my head out the window just to hear it!! :D

Would you not consider a Rotrex charger? They are good for 400bhp which is turbo territory but with the rotrex you will have power as soon as you put your foot down and no lag :D Your engine bay is PORN! One day mine will look a good but for now i just want to get my rotrex fitted then worry about all the fancy parts!

Ok sorry guys im wrong then :oops: i thought that you had to get VR6 specific because of the weight of the vr lump up front and needing the right dampening for it?? Oh well, i got VR6 specific for mine and even if some are the same i know i would rather get suspension that is for a vr6 personally.

Ok a quick update. I drained the coolant again, this time from the drain plug in the crack pipe as kev mentioned, as well as removing the bottom rad hose. Then connected it back up and added the coolant and topped the water up from the top of the rad and from the expansion tank until it was at max and not going down. Turned the engine on and let it idle for a bit with the odd rev to get rid of bubbles whilst topping up the water level as i went along. Did this until the car got hot and no more bubbles were coming out and as the water level started to raise i stuck the cap back on. All pipes were hot this time, top and bottom rad, and one going into the matrix etc. I then let the car cool down fully and checked the water level, it had dropped but not by a lot so topped it up and took it for a spin. I took it round town for a bit then out on a good stretch of road and gave it a blast, bit of dual carriageway sitting at normal speeds then high speeds and the water temp didnt go over 90 and the oil temp didnt go over 110. I got back and my phone rang so i was chatting quickly with the engine still on, the water temp reached 110 and the fan came on. Then i switched it off and the fan stayed on for a while and went off. I checked the coolant level and it was actually a bit higher than before so im guessing all is well?

If you use the search mate you will find the answer is NO due to the weight of the VR6 engine you need harder suspension. Definately get VR6 specific suspension!

Where/what is the crack pipe?? EDIT: i filled from the top rad hose until that became quite full then continued filling from the expansion tank.

I dont like to start new topics as i usually find enough on the forum and i have found lots of information already but i still feel as though i need to ask for MY situation rather than other peoples as im in the dark to whats happening!! Basically my heater matrix blew last week, i replaced it at the weekend and now i have just flushed the entire coolant from the car by running a hose pipe in the expansion tank whilst the engine is idling until it runs clear. Then filled it with about 2.5 litres of G12+ coolant followed by water and let the engine idle to let air bubbles out of it. I have the heaters on inside the car as well. I ran the engine and loads of bubbles were coming out, then they slowed down to only the odd bubble. I let it run until the engine reached about 90 degrees so the stat would open, now this is where things puzzle me! If the stat is opening at this point the bottom rad hose is supposed to get hot and the water level in the expansion tank drops, correct? Well my expansion tank overflows! Does this indicate that the thermostat is not opening?? Im guessing i need to take the bastard out and chuck it in a bowl of boiling water to test if its opening and if not its new stat time! Although from reading it appears i do not use a new stat from vw as these dont open enough?? I also read about the lower temp stats you can get from awesome gti etc which open at 70 degrees keeping the engine much cooler, would this be a good idea for when i supercharge my car as i wont be running any additional cooling? Also i have been worried about the aux water pump not working. When the engine was hot i felt all the pipes and most (bar the bottom rad hose) were really hot. One of the hoses going to my nice new heater matrix (one on the left as you look in the engine bay) was hot but the other (connected to the aux pump) was not. Could this suggest its seized? I also checked the fuses on top of the controller but these have not blown. And i also need to sort my fans out as i dont think they come on at fan speed 1 but i think i can resolve this from the search, its just the above im stuck with and couldnt really find much help using the search. Much love!

Sorting out the heater controls didnt cost me anything as i forgot to order any new cables, but it wasnt necessarily needed as when it was all out we just greased up the cogs that turn the flaps and lubed them up a bit with some engine oil and tested they all operated properly, then when we put it all back together again we routed all the cables so that they were as straight as possible and my controls work fine now. The matrix itself cost me about £50 delivered from GSF and its a genuine Valeo one. VW wanted £115 +VAT for one which is the same unit only it comes with warranty, although tbh if it went wrong and you told them you fitted it yourself im sure they will try and wiggle out of it sayin you must not of done it correctly or something, and its still cheaper to get another one from GSF!! Then i just spent a few quid on some draft excluder foam from my local DIY store to stop squeeks and rattles etc, and then i suppose its just any costs of coolant top ups afterwards (im completely renewing my coolant as its a bit old). Its a long job but tbh its not that hard really as the guide tells you pretty much every step, its just mainly undoing screws and removing parts off the dash shell then remove the dash and replace the matrix. That said i dont fancy doing it again which is why im trying to sort out my cooling system once and for all :lol:

If you pull the glove box out you can tease the cables out so it should slide in... I can't get my glovebox out so I had to remove the tray underneath, still didn't get it right in though. Nevermind, main thing is that there is a stereo in it now. The glove box is a cnut to remove! That was pretty much one of the first things i had to remove when doing the heater matrix and i was stuck straight away. It pulls out so far then stops! My mate managed to get it out in the end, it was catching on something underneath, cant remember what though. Im ok with how the stereo sits now, its better than it was so will do me.