herisites

Beautiful wheels! Look forward to seeing them on the car!

Hi mate, I changed the ARB bushes last month on my vr and i had to lower the rear subframe slightly. Support the subframe with a trolley jack and then there are 4 bolts you need to undo. First obviously you need to remove the 4 small bolts holding the ARB in place, then there are the 4 sub frame bolts, 2 which hold the rear of te wishbones to the chassis and 2 actually bolted to the chassis itself. You completely remove the 2 from the wishbones and just loosen the 2 on the chassic do not remove completely, then its just a case of slowly lowering the trolley jack until the ARB can be removed. You may need to keep going back and loosening the sub frame bolts a tad more until the ARB can slide out, just try not to loosen them too much as apparently you can cock up the alignment! Its not too hard, i managed to do it so im sure you can :lol: Rob.

Yeah i bloody wish i had come now :lol: Oh and my list of jobs gets bigger every day and even though i seem to be doing something to the car all the time, the list never seems to go down :lol: Not far off now though, once the bearing is done and i have sorted out clunks and squeeks in the suspension i just gotta get some goodridge hoses and fit my ew 288's, then its on with the supercharger when i get it! I best go and order some goodridge hoses whilst i remember, great more money! :roll: :lol:

Hi Simon, That sounds like the hub nut needs to be VERy tight then so i will add a long extension on the wrench and give it all i got then. I have booked the car into the garage in the morning to get the bearings done, costly but gotta be done! So hopefully that will sort it out. I told them the situation that i changed the cv joint and now its joining and they said that it does sound as if i have fcuked the bearing by whacking it but they are going to road test it anyway to make sure. I just want it sorted out now! I will ask them to cheque if my top mounts are done up tight enough as well as i think that could be why they are turning/clunking as you can only do them up so much before the coils start turning with it so probably not done up enough! I shall update tomorrow! Thanks for the help so far though! Rob.

Hi Simon, Well i have the standard speedlines on now as i have bought some 288 brakes after all and the big wheels dont fit over them, i need them for when i charger the car as standard brakes wont be up to it, also the big wheels just arent practical for daily driving and especially if im going to put more power through them! So i will be getting some practical 16" wheels i think. As for the CV joint, i done the hub nut up pretty damn tight but i shall try and tighten it a bit more in the morning before setting off to work just to be sure. I dont have a torque wrench so couldnt do it properly so i just done it up pretty darn tight myself. The droning certainly does sound like bearing noise, after i took it out and noticed it was making more noise i checked the wheels for play by shaking the wheel with hands at 12 and 6 o'clock positions like you say and i cant notice much play really! But my mate reckons that by removing the old CV joint in a rather harsh way (lump hammer!) i have most probably fcuked the bearing up which makes sense really as the CV was a pig to get out the hub again but not AS bad as when we did it before. Also i didnt change the hub and havent changed the bearings, just the outer cv joint on its own. David - i didnt move the car with the shaft out as it was up on axle stands, i just removed the wheels, brakes, undone the ball joint from the wishbone and undone the strut bolts and removed the shaft from the hub and then replaced it still on the car. I havent checked the old one yet, but i changed the CV joint as like i said when me and Simon changed the cv boot for my mot he noticed there was play in the joint and said it would be best to change it so i did, as i will be putting more power through it soon so wanted to make sure everything is good. So it makes sense to do the bearings anyway really! As for the top mounts, i got them from G-Werks with my coilovers so dont know about quality but guessing they should be ok? My mate thinks maybe the top mount bolts (above the plate in the engine bay) are not done up tight enough so the top mounts are able to twist as i turn the steering. Does that seem possible? I suppose i am going to have to take the car to the garage ASAP anyway to get the bearings done so i might as well ask them to check it out or just see if they are done up enough etc.

Well i went out to check for play etc and noticed that the wheel was that cambered the tire was just touching the suspension :shock: so back on with the old clothes and adjusted the camber with the help of a spirit level, now its ever so slightly more cambered than the other wheel but generally a LOT closer to how it should be to what it was. Took it for a spin and the driving is obviously a lot better but the droning noise is still there, but not as loud just a low drone now. So im thinking perhaps it is the wheel bearing after all?? Also whilst i have peoples attention i just sourced the problem to why my car clunks/creaks when turning the steering stationary and at low speeds and its the top mounts. I got my bro to turn the steering lock to lock whilst i stuck my ear near each top mount and they are clunking, the plate on top in the engine bay is turning as it clunks. So what do you reckon is the problem there as they were new top mounts when i fitted the coilovers including new bearings? Have i not put the bearings on correctly?

Well that sounds like i sugested first which is that the resins in the super resin polish is sitting inside tiny stone chips you didnt know about. If you have any detailing spray spray some liberally over the panel they are on and buff off and see if that sorts it. EDIT: Or it could be the resins sticking to bonded contaminants in the lacquer like brake dust or industrial fall out, so in that case claying it as Goldie suggested would sort that problem out.

I dont actually know, it looks like oxidisation which is where paint fades from the suns rays, typical on red cars turning pink! BUT it wouldnt do it in patches really so it cant be that. It looks like water marks, as if it had rained and then got hot and burnt the paint perhaps :? Whatever it is though it can be got rid of but needs an abrasive polish which by hand would be very hard work but i would imagine a quick going over with a machine polisher would get shot of it for good.

Oh ok i gotcha now. Like this by any chance: If so its not the polish doing it, but i dont know what is :lol:

I dont usually start topics when working on my car as i can find everything i need to know on here by using the search, but i cant find an answer from searching and im just so annoyed now i need some help!! Yesterday i changed the passenger side outer CV joint on my car as when i had to change the boot last month for my mot i noticed a lot of play in it and Simon69 who helped me said it was pretty fudged. It wasnt clunking though, it was droning when going fast ish round a right hand bend which indicates wheel bearing but we checked the bearing and it didnt have any play (although im awar that they can still be gone even with no play) and Simon said a nackered joint will make droning noise as higher speeds (he's a mechanic). So i bought a new joint from GSF which came with everything i needed. So i changed the joint and boot etc, put it back together and took it for a drive. However i noticed it was now droning constantly, even in a straight line, so i wasnt very happy about that. So today i went back out there and took it apart again and noticed i forgot to put the washers in (whoops!!) so i put the washers in the RIGHT way round as i checked the bentley and how they came out the old one. Then put it back together again adding more grease as had to lose some, double checked it and im pretty sure it was right, the order was boot > washers > C clip > joint, then put it all back together (with camber obviously well out!) and took it for a drive. Well now for some bloody reason the noise is louder!! Constant droning with the wheel rotations when driving along, and it drove like sh*t because of the camber etc. So does anyone have any ideas what the bloody hell it could be that i have done wrong?? Could it be that now the joint is new its the bearing making the noise which wasnt obvious before?? Will it still be safe to drive on carefully until i can get it to a garage to be checked out and if necessary replace bearing and do tracking?? Cheers, Rob.

The white dots are possibly just the polish sitting inside tiny stone chips that you dont notice usually. When i polish black cars its very noticeable, loads of tiny white dots everywhere, but if i spray some detailing spray liberally over it and give it a wipe over it all goes.

Cheers for that. Yeah it looks ok but still a 12 year old car underneath really! I have done all the fronts myself, im just worried about doing the rears really. Although im going to be fitting goodridge hoses all round soon so i suppose it makes sense to get the rear axle off whilst the brake lines are off and put in some new bushes!!

How hard were the RAB's to change mate? Did you use a proper press or did you just fashion something up?

thats another conversation entirely! :lol: Haha true :lol:

Believe me i have tried mate, i think the conversation went some what along the lines of this: Me: "Mick you are a tit, take that M badge off right now and put the 318is badge back on!" Mick: "Its ok mate its not an M3 badge its an M-Tech badge because its got the M-Tech kit on it!" Me: "Yes but you have replaced the 318is badge with a big M mate so it blatently looks like you are trying to pass it off as an M3 where as people KNOW its not an M3 as it has a small pea shooter exhaust and doesnt go anywhere very quickly! Do you get many people doing this at you " Mick: " ... " :lol:

Cheers kev, might save myself a bit of money then and stick with standard discs, dunno what the condition is of the ones im getting though so i might end up changing them anyway. Pagid no longer do the Fast Road pads do they? I may just go for Red stuffs or look at the DS2500's. Tbh though i like my speed but i am a bit of a fart when it comes to braking, i dont leave braking to the last minute and when coming up quick on cars again i leave time to brake, but i guess when i am charged i will be arriving at cars arses a fair bit quicker :lol: My main concern is like you say anything pulling out or overtaking on bends like the other day :roll: and know i have some pretty competant brakes to stop me. Plus with the 288's i have the calipers there for if i ever decide to go 312's. Like i was telling you Kev, i think im going to replace my front 9" brocks for the 7.5" which allow for the 288's AND will be a damn sight nicer to drive on compared to the 9's! Or i may just sell them altogether and get some 7.5 x 16's all round which have enough clearance for future 312 upgrade! Decisions decisions!! :lol:

Well there is a book for the corrado which is the Bentley Manual, so a search and you will find loads on it. But its rather expensive compared to Haynes manuals. You can get it as a PDF version which is what i have done and i just take my laptop into the garage with me so does the job. But as the corrado is a mongrel you can get golf and passat manuals for the majority of drivetrain parts and there are manuals out there which cover the VR6 engine as well.

Well i have just bought some 288's for mine as at the mo im running standard 280's with Black Diamond discs and greenstuff pads which for na power are a big improvement over standard, but if im going to be adding another 100bhp i AM going to need better stopping power, but like you wheels are an issue as im sorry to say it im not a fan of 17's on a corrado, i have a set of 9x16's but they barely fit over 280's so at the min im running my speedlines. So gone for 288's then probably going to go for the black diamond discs again and maybe red stuff pads this time unless they are not neccesary, as wel as goodridge hoses and a bloody good bleed :lol:

I dont really know much about them, he seems to think they only made a few hundred in that year and gave them full leather etc so its RARE! He's a typical TIT though and gone and put M3 badges on ... no wait sorry he's just put M-Tech badges on but removed the 318is and replaced with a big M ... hmmm! :lol:

My mates not long had a BMW 318is but he went for a 5 door! Althought i let him off for it as its a very late S reg with FULL leather and m-tech etc, lovely M3 wheels on and does look great. BUT dont ask me how it drives or if he's had any trouble with it because he never drives the fcuking thing!! He uses his company van all the bloody time and the only time he brings the bm out its to do a few laps of the town :roll: When he was looking for it though i do remember reading about something to do with the M52 model engines (2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.5 and 2.8) having Nikasil lined cylinders as apposed to cast iron cylinder blocks. A lot of cars were taken back by BMW and repaired through warranty so always good to check the history (which im sure you would do anyway) to see if its beend one already.

What brakes are you running Dave?

Sorry im being stupid the TT must be 5x100 as you can use the 312mm brakes from them! So yeah i would just convert your valver to 5 stud.

I thought Audi wheels were 5x112? If they are 5x100 then you could convert your valver to 5 stud, you will find out how if you search.

Gun metal??? When they are dirty they just look a bit darker :lol:

Yep quite a lot of guys run puma engines actually, some even with the Ford Racing Puma engines in running 150bhp+. I was going to drop one in my old zetec-s but didnt see the point in spending all that money and only gaining a bit more power plus i wanted a corrado so i made a wise decision :lol: The mk5 zetec's is a good car (i had one!) handled very well, looked pretty good, was good all round really but was very under powered at 106bhp compared to its rivals the chavvy Paxo VTS with 120bhp and the Pug 106GTI with 130bhp and not mentioning any Clios :wink: It was probably an ST you were racing as they can be fairly useful as Kev mentioned.