dannyboy

You get that everywhere pat,id ignore it usually because theyre usually the one that ends up on theyre roof in a ditch somewhere.Only when people are outright dangerous or WAY TOO CLOSE for comfort i get a bit annoyed. But even though i drive like Miss daisy most of the time,i have to play sometimes you know,gotten make a point.Having the 20vt makes it so much more fun. I would drive about 48 kmph in 50 kmph zone and Mr/Mrs angry/dont care about anyone else on the road would come flying around a bend (way over the limit)right up my rear bumper to one extent once i couldnt see his headlights anymore.this annoys me a bit so i drive slower.so he toots his horn,flashes his headlights anything to make me go faster,i slow down even more.sometimes even down to 40 kmph. I laugh as he throws a fit in the drivers seat and i wait til i get to the end of the restriction.He revs the crap out of his engine as he trys to overtake at with point i give a bit of power to keep us level even though he is on the wrong side of the road(i only do this if theres no oncoming cars) and laugh as he trys but cant overtake,then give the C some power to pull anyway cleanly so he has watch as you dissapper into the hiorzion wondering why did he think about trying to bully other people off the road in the first place. I can be D$%k at times but only when people force me to it.Just seems Corrados are sh1t-magnets for a$R$eh0le drivers who think their car is 100 times better than that old banger in front with a funny shape.I just do it now and again to prove a point!

Well back in germany again and had a chance to guage the fuel consumption over the few tankfulls i put in. 750 to 800 km out of a 55 litre tank isnt that bad but that was driving between 110-125 kph most of the way on motorway and with 5% of it traffic.But overall it seems a good result. The power is all over the place at the moment.One minute the car flies ,the next its as dull as german grey!Gotta love chasing problems that you know you could solve if the stuff in the post didnt take so bloody long.also my bank balance took some hit with the stuff i ordered this month 1. Forge 008 DV cost 135 euro 2. Forge early APX turbo inlet pipe cost £146 3. G60 intercooler silicon hose l/h/s cost 107 euro 4. Other misc items like proper hose clamps cost 37 euro Total this month- 439 euro or £373 not including remap or fuel or ferry. ohhh boy... Anyone else have an expensive christmas?

yeah rob id say your correct,id do have a funny feeling the the turbo inlet pipe is crushing purely because of the amount of air its sucking in. Bryan, its wasnt too bad a drive,apart from snow in europe but ive got to drive back now....oh the joy.I have to be gentle on the throttle all the time now because the boost snaps in quite a bit and hopefully ill get forge inlet pipe

Hi guys, Got the car remapped at AMD essex.Im not really happy as im getting 25-29 psi which i was told is quite a bit outside the 'safe' working pressure of a turbo.I think my turbo inlet pipe is imploding as the car has acutally gotten slower!I tested for leaks as when i was getting it remapped,one of the boost hoses kept popping off with the pressure. Found a small leak or two and fitted better hose clamps so it most be the inlet pipe crushing. Also ordered a Forge 007p DV week and half before to replace the dv when i got it remapped and when i tipped up they didnt have it in!!! Not very good service at all

Ive just sorted mine out yesterday as i had a puddle in the footwell so your not the only one! Silicion or simailar sealant(i used loctite 5910 as it seals anything,used for sump gasket too) on the seal,no more leaks. I sorted that dust and pollen problem while back and its an easy fix. Go to any DIY store,tescos,etc and look for kitchen extractor fan filter mesh.Its usually white and you can cut it to any size costs £1.Take the filter housing out,measure the size of the top, cut to size,then tape it on or use a thick rubber band (perfer tape as it stays on and you can change it anytime).i dont care how it looks as you cant see it anyway under plastic water diverter. Replace the housing cover and be happy to know that every time you turn the fan on,you wont be pelted with leaves,dust or any crap that gets sucked in. On the downside you,ll lose 5-20% airflow depending on how thick the filter is!mine is quite thin,more of a prefilter. hope it helps

there is a gasket on the block to filter housing itself doubt it leaks,never heard them go unless not put on correctly in the first place.Then there is the oil filter seal,for some reason people do them too tight,think they think if they do it tighter than is neccesrary it wont leak.This can have quite the opposite effect. As guildmage said above the oil pressure switch can leak oil through the switch itself(out where spade connector is).This has also happened to me so 16v it seems is prone to this happening,more so the KR 1.8 versions.when it leaks it only gets worse,so check it properly or you run the risk of siezing your engine if it fully goes,as it pours out not drips

That is complete bull$h!t.euro plates are as reflective as uk ones even though letters are a bit smaller they can still be read from the same distance.infact they are easier to read than uk plates for some weird reason.Look at my avatar you will see my temporary plates for germany,normal ones are a bit different with the blue eu symbol and D. there is a proper spacing requirement and size in the uk for the letters and numbers on licence plates. Its for MOT reasons so police can identify your VIN clearly,if they think your 'obstructing' your licence plate by having smaller letters or numbers or different font that makes it harder to read,they can pull you over and techinically make your car unroadworthy meaning your cars not legally alowed on the road and your insurance is void. Sad but true. Sorry to hear you got caught but as you said you were running the risk and knew sometime you were going to get caught ..just get legal plates on there and keep your rado on the road!!!!

Well snow has arrived in germany at last, only to find that my passenger footwell is full of water.wasn't fun driving down the autobahn in heavy snow with whole car fogging up every two seconds.Back to the garage and found ive lost the bulkhead fan filter retaining clip so the filter isnt sealing, do'h! must have forgot to push it fully in when i took the old digifant ecu out. oh well its lost,so made a plastic clip up and sealed the filter to bulkhead.But it going to take ages to dry the bloody car out now! Using the old newspaper under the floormats trick,hopefully help Anyone have a part number for the clip?

Well i was thinking,time to extract so more horses from the engine so contacted AMD essex who gave a nice offer that i couldnt refuse.£330 for stage 2 remap and Forge DV 007which i dont think is too bad.The tt guys recommended Vag-check or AMD but vag-check was booked out so i had to use AMD which is better it think as its on the way from Dover anyway! Kill two birds with the one stone..... I havent heard many bad comments about AMD essex,has anyone used them before? Perfectly honest im only really doing it because it may help my fuel economy since i dont use full RPM(only now and again) and its got a stronger boost & torque low to midrange

heres a diagram to help you out the cotter clip holds the cable end on the shifter,it breaks off

good one yands,forgot about that too!

its deffo the cable on the gearstick then, this is excatly the problem i was having. you need to look at the bottom cable when you lift the gearstick gaiter cover up. with a torch you see it properly.at the end of the linkage there is a small C clip.it breaks and falls off.when you put it in reverse the cable will continue to jump off.A suitable washer and split pin is a perm fix but its very fiddly as its in a tight space. ill try photograph where you need to look tomorrow and post it up ---------- Post added at 10:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:07 PM ---------- its a cheap fix, 1 washer,1 suitable split pin and lots of patience.or you can try find the c-clip in the gear stick housing

im a little confused too,i thing i always believed that if g60 head was never reskimmed that the engine was basically non-interference dispite what the bentley said.ive got three g60 engines in my garage and put one out by 180 degree by accident and bent no valves. I have a US g60 engine and euro one stripped so ill 100% confirm if the flywheel can go on one way or several to see if theres a difference tomorrow If you bent valves youd hear it as it would have very metallic sound when he first turned it over(you turned it hand right?) id concentrate on the cam pulley and crank pulley being lined up correct.the intermiedate pulley isnt vital as you have to move the dizzy anyway but get it as close as you can No compression is either bent valve(s) or your timing is off

stop lying,you love waiting for your baby ;)

Ive noticed that too,i had them in before as they were 2 for 1 last year so i thought why not. Seems they start off very bright and are month or so they lose brightness.maybe its just me! seems osrams are the same as only fitted mine month ago and theyre already fading,still good though!

Uprated loom and Osram nightbreakers i have in mine.Best mod on the car ive made as you can see properly at night.very white clear light patteren which looks even better than some modern day car ones! Wish they still made the reflector part on the headlight as mine seen better days

bryan,what oil cooler you running?

nice feedback you gave him :thumbleft:

yeah ive tried both,no joy but that was direct to U1/6 green that drives the rev counter.im a bit iffy about giving a positive supply to a ecu output(dont really want to blow anything!) but maybe ill try that too. i feel a bit of a tool about the ABS because i picked the cable up four times when i was finishing the coversion and couldnt remember where it went!!It was the grey plug that connects to the top of the brake reservior :bonk: . just goes to show you one cable can stop the whole ABS system working Done the injector seals today as number 1 and 4 were leaking and dirt was forming around it.1 was not good as the dirt had been blown up the injector and i could see a clean part which meant the pressure+fuel was blowing up past the seal quite a bit. 8 injector seals( 23 euro :suprised: ) and about an hour later the injectors were cleaned and resealed.the FPR was a complete &r$£ to get out,had to put in in the vise to get it out Anyway done and dusted, got me 1 psi extra on boost now,so im on 12-12.5 psi now so the quest to find the small boostnd vacumm a leaks continues.....

ive just been in to check after buying new injector seals and the rear beam bushes for a G60 are 43 euro each! guess ill be using tax-free form then......

I believe,nearly 99% sure that the flywheel can be put on more than one way so maybe in the past the flywheel was changed and not put on correct way.To comfirm that it had a new one,as yandards said the second timing mark 6 btdc will not be on the new flywheel unless they marked it when installing. if theyre is'nt then you have a new one and the flywheel may not be put on excatly how it should(no biggy though) ,so to that end use the crank pulley mark to time it up

Same as yandards.dizzy needs to be set while engine is at 2k rpm.Use the flywheel 0 mark,its more acurate Not to sound stupid but are you 100% sure you have the correct timing belt? Some people have been known to be given wrong belts. If the engine doesnt stay in timing,then you have the wrong belt. Also ian has point,you need to check the bottom crank pulley,the crank bolt has a habit of working loose and the keyway for the woodruff key gets damaged causing problems like you have.

:lol:

i can confirm that it doesnt work either(pin 37) so all rpms output require current sink to work but at least i got my abs working again!just in time before the bad weather is due.

working on four means the thermistor is broken.desolder old one,resolder new one one,job done