dannyboy

is there? didnt know that! cheers man. ill owe you a beer when im back in uk. :thumbsup: ---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 PM ---------- is that repair kit for the hydralics only?

since rados are half mk2 golf,why not? welcome

That red wire is the perment live for the mfa display! might be your prob!!!

Month or two and ill have mine running.Bought a cheap run-around for when i start the conversion,OEM wiring is a bit of a pain at the moment but worth it as ill be able to use vagcom with the obd port.the DBW pedal i have to weld up a bracket.Also bloke i bought it from gave me his word he'd send me the MAF sensor,month later and 5 emails-still no reply.Figures Anyone know if a VR abs unit will fit a g60?

B&!!s,ill prob need a new ABS system as i think their sealed units. not good. Maybe ebay can help here.... Hey mr green,hows your motor running?

Boys just comparing, My ABS takes about 25-30 seconds to build and put abs light out.obivously takes second or two if restart after few minutes.Feels like pump is getting on a bit or accumulator is slighty leaking but want to compare before thinks of renewing How long does your take from cold start?

A smooth g60 is a happy g60

Inky dont let him scare you,he's just using scare tatics into trying to get his money back. He knows its his problem,he took the car away.What he does after the sale is HIS problem.as you said he checked the car and was satisfied hence took the car. Prob showing off to his 'mates' and blow the thing. Did he ask to see charger history?If he didnt ,hes a plum and desevered it!!!!

slim be aware that the bias valve has a habit of siezing or part seizing.both of mine did. loads of WD40 and taps with a hammer on the load adjusting lever will loosen it but if your getting flow to other side it shouldnt be the prob.might help

G60s are bit sluggish starters,bit like a diesel,but should start on first time every time and should take no more than two seconds to start for cold.I bought a big ampere battery and made no difference.repeated cranking indicates fuel or ignition problem tappets should quieten down after first few seconds but dont worry too much if they dont,theyre are an easy job and but wear on the cam lobes is more expensive to put right. as said,check charger history-if in doubt take hose off and look at the pipe.is it plastered with oil? if it is seals need renewing-charger service required. Oil is the most important thing in any engine,tar black oil means hes too cheap to change oil at proper intervals or couldnt care less about the engine.Ive walked away from buying a car several times after looking at the oil.reflects how the car was looked after I never bothered to dyno a g60 because even a prefectly well running one will be tempermental as they are very sensitive to temps.Run brilliant one day,sluggish the next.

Bleed nipple blocked? degrading hose rubber blocking the nipple internally?take the nipple off completely ---------- Post added at 05:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:32 PM ---------- sorry dox....you beat me to it! ;)

get ready.... 117 euro in germany....EACH! that is before they stopped supplying them There is very little parts for the corrado that you can get now,even asked for a g60 oil filter last week and they said they cant get it anymore.Obviously went to bosch after and they got me a Mahle filter for 11 euro. VW classic parts hasnt listed very much for corrado yet but their in the process of.

think so,the vacuum sensor on the back works different to the other displays im led to believe.Theres a few small differences between displays but not 100% sure you can use others. Ask some of the other guys,they might be able answer that.

i was looking at the wiring diagram and the MFA display/processer is the common to all the problems your having or attached wiring.Not sure if you can remove it,think its part of the printed circuit. at first i thought it could be a diode but you said fuel guage is working

one of the components is failing on the back of your instrustment display,MFA unit probably

Sorry boys,five day turn around if your in germany.My last g-lader took 4 days.SLS Tuning,work is pretty good,tad expensive though.

Thats just you alex,you pervert :lol:

cool sorted! Must have been the ecu hose came off

welcome to the forum. what engine is it fellow?

I emailed Gwerks months ago many times about getting my charger serviced and looking to buy parts.Didnt get one reply. Its ok,spent my hard-earned somewhere else that has a good customer service and returns charger within five days.Dont know Darren personally,he could very well be a nice guy but his business is going down the drain very fast by the sounds of it

Sorry to hear mate,bit of a bummer. Ive got a head but i think it would cost abit to ship to the uk from germany.see if any are on fleabay? Dont let it put you off owning the motor,theyre great fun once theyre working! when that happens

Do remember that the leaking head will up the pressure in the coolant system alone+heat but then the fan should be on all the time trying to cool the rad. Does the fan turn on and stay on? or does it cut out after minute or so?

Rallye intercooler+corrado rad is fine,just make sure the radiator isnt blocked or caked in Cr&p. Just remember the fan shouldnt be needed when driving on the motorway unless your stuck in traffic. Anything above 30 mph the radiator will start to cool naturally without the fan. One thing i nearly forgot to ask, HAVE you fitted the thermostat correct way around? you can fit them two ways,incorrect way will lead to overheating when motorway driving and just enough to cool on idle

How long does it take to fully pressurise? anything under 3-4 minutes on idle indicates a head gasket or as carrots said hairline crank in the head. Double check everything first,sound silly but didnt you check large O-ring in the coolant cap?they can get trapped when screwing cap on. You dont have to have oil in the coolant or vise versa to have a leaking head gasket.the gasket could be leaking because the cylinder pressure is overcoming the gasket slighty and acting as a one way valve(8 bar and higher cylinder pressure against 1 bar coolant)then closing when engine is turned off. Think of it like a very small leak in a hose pipe when pressurised,then turn off water the leak stops(bit like reed valve on two stroke except pressure rather than vacuum) other than that,start looking at fuelling problems-running very lean,timing too far advanced,knock sensor not working,wrong fuel grade for chip?

cheers man found it yesterday evening. Typical,ive found both them yesterday and spent ages days before hand!! thanks anyway :thumbleft: Went to the breakers today and got connector and e-pedal off golf tdi.wiring is different colour on some connections but should be the same. just finished splicing the wiring.Not the most fancy wiring you can have but its practial and works.Plus if the connectors are wrong way around i can swap'em. Sorry for gash photos,dam energy saving bulbs